Push mower will not start....

[Two-Stroke]

Almost all of his mowers look like this(no pull cord) but you can find the pieces after looking around for awhile. I told him about LMF but he said only his wife knows how to operate the computer he said he has no Lawn-Boys.

I've never heard of the brand "Hahn Eclipse" but the engine looks like a Briggs & Stratton from the 1960s. That might be worth fixing. Is the deck steel or alloy?

 

[Two-Stroke]

I put a new spark plug into my push mower and sprayed starter fluid down the carb and it started for a few seconds and than made a little screeching sound and stopped, and I tried again and the same thing happened (mystified)
What does that mean??

That means that the problem is most likely in the carb -- or the fuel system in general.

Thanks for taking the photos of the old mowers. Are there any Jacobsen mowers in his stash? That was one of the best brands back in the 1950s through the 1970s.

 

[Tikal]

Are there any Jacobsen mowers in his stash? That was one of the best brands back in the 1950s through the 1970s.

I don't think so
Some person told me to check the flywheel key on my push mower because it could be bent or sompin like that, the problem is that I will have to take the flywheel off(reaaaaaaaaaaaly hard) is there any way to take the key out without taking the flywheel off (or should I take it to a professional to take the flywheel off?)
thanks for helping!!!

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[Tikal]

I've never heard of the brand "Hahn Eclipse" but the engine looks like a Briggs & Stratton from the 1960s. That might be worth fixing. Is the deck steel or alloy?

I do not know but will check

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[Two-Stroke]

Some person told me to check the flywheel key on my push mower because it could be bent or sompin like that, the problem is that I will have to take the flywheel off(reaaaaaaaaaaaly hard) is there any way to take the key out without taking the flywheel off (or should I take it to a professional to take the flywheel off?)

No. I'm pretty sure you have to remove the flywheel to inspect/replace the key. When you have it off you can look at the points -- if they haven't been checked for a long time that would be worth trying.

But I think -- based on your experiment with priming the carb -- that the problem is most likely with the carb.

Have you checked the float valve? When the float is in the "up" position it should not allow anything to pass through -- when it is "down" there should be free flow (gas from the tank into the bowl at the bottom of the carb.)

That shouldn't be too hard to check.

Please keep us posted on your results. Photos (of the carb, in various states of assembly) might help.

 

[Tikal]

No. I'm pretty sure you have to remove the flywheel to inspect/replace the key. When you have it off you can look at the points -- if they haven't been checked for a long time that would be worth trying.

But I think -- based on your experiment with priming the carb -- that the problem is most likely with the carb.

Have you checked the float valve? When the float is in the "up" position it should not allow anything to pass through -- when it is "down" there should be free flow (gas from the tank into the bowl at the bottom of the carb.)

That shouldn't be too hard to check.

Please keep us posted on your results. Photos (of the carb, in various states of assembly) might help.

Where is the float valve? It it near the screw with the spring?

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[Two-Stroke]

Where is the float valve? It it near the screw with the spring?

On the bottom of the carb there's cylindrical thing that looks like it could hold about 3 oz of liquid. It's attached to the carb by three or four screws. If you remove those screws and the "bowl" you'll see the float (looks like a little doghnut) which operates the valve that I refereed to.

 

[Tikal]

On the bottom of the carb there's cylindrical thing that looks like it could hold about 3 oz of liquid. It's attached to the carb by three or four screws. If you remove those screws and the "bowl" you'll see the float (looks like a little doghnut) which operates the valve that I refereed to.

I think I found one of the problems with the gas system.
The tube that goes into the tank has a clog,(you cannot blow either way) I tried to get it out but failed to do so. Is there any chemicals to get the clog out? I could not find the cylindrical think you were talking about, is it in the pictures?

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[Tikal]

After I took the carburetor off there was a tube sticking out, it had nothing in it and looked completely useless. (in the photo) so I took the tube and the cover off and it looked even weirder! What is it? should there be something in the tube?

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[Two-Stroke]

I think I found one of the problems with the gas system.
The tube that goes into the tank has a clog,(you cannot blow either way) I tried to get it out but failed to do so. Is there any chemicals to get the clog out? I could not find the cylindrical think you were talking about, is it in the pictures?

This type of carb does not have a bowl and float. Let's refer to this photo:

The tube that sticks out to the left goes down into the gas tank. I has a screen-type filter on the bottom -- make sure that's not clogged. Also, try unclogging this tube when you've removed the main jet adjustment (see below.)

There's a screw with a spring and a hex nut on top (from this photo's perspective) -- that, I'm pretty sure, is the main jet. Remove the screw with the spring then remove the hex nut. Look inside -- is there another screw that can be removed? If so take it out too. Clean all that stuff and put it back together. When you reinstall the screw with the spring turn it gently until it won't go farther then turn it back one turn (this is the mixture adjustment you'll play with when you get it running and warmed up.)

You can get carb cleaner at auto parts stores -- Wal-Mart probably has it too. If you could blow compressed air through that clogged tube you might clear it -- I think that clogging is a major part of the problem.