The PTO on my machine has stopped working. It's a Cub Cadet 1500/SLT 1554, model183641-13AK11CK712, serial 1E055H30005. I'm very hard of hearing and I do not hear any kind of click when engaging the PTO.
Is it possible that it is fused, and the fuse has blown?
On that mower if the fuse blows it also shuts off the engine. Need to get a volt meter or a test light and unplug the electric clutch and check for 12 volts at the electric clutch plug. If you have voltage then most likely the clutch has failed. No voltage would mean other issues and with that age it is very common to have to replace all the wire connector in the plug for the pto switch. the spring tabs on the terminals break and you loose connection. Also need to check ohm resistance on the electric clutch because if it failed it will also take out the pto switch.
My brother in law has the the 13AK11Bk710 which is the newer version of that exact mower that I work on every year. I have had to replace every terminal going to the pto switch and half of the connectors on the key switch due to the terminal tension strips breaking causing intermittent and no contact.
#5
StarTech
F56 female terminals [Packard, GM, Aptiv] does that over time. Hopefully you used the open barrel crimpers to crimp these terminals. Same thing actually happens the female terminals that uses a spring type contact system.
Edit: Corrected spelling of Aptiv
#6
sgkent
does anything last past a couple years anymore? All I read these days on the forums is about mowers that fail after a couple years of lite mowing. GM and Ford invented sealed connectors years ago that keep moisture out almost indefinitely.
#7
StarTech
Those sealed connectors are only partially weatherproof. The Molex MX150 used on the Toro ZTR leaks and is the resason for the electric brake module to to fail. It and the terminals inside it has to be replaced whenever the brake module is replaced. Or as Toro wishes the whole wiring harness.
I currently has a connector problem on my 2000 Chevy PU that is causing couple problems. One is lost power to the instruments and the other is the anti lock brakes. When it acts up I have to hit the steering wheel hard to things working again. It took awhile to find the area that was acting on the brakes. It not fun when the brakes don't work.
As a long time motorcyclist I laugh at the idea of a water proof joint
As an ex- metallurgist I laugh at the whole idea of them for anything other than sensors that have very small voltages , like O2 sensors.
Metals corrode because they form a galvanic cell
For that to happen you just need two dissimilar metals to be touching each other while damp , the dampness completes the circuit .
So the supposedly waterproof joint lets moisture in and holds it there providing the perfect corrosion conditions.
The best thing by far is to grease the plugs with lanolin grease which you can get as a spray but I just melt it and dip the plugs into it .
You can use the expensive electrical contact grease but it is based on lanolin in any case .
Note I used the word dissimilar and not different .
And one of the things that makes metals dissimilar is cold working
So in the Packard type connector that seems to be favoured by US factories, the female being cold bent into a U shape at both sides will form a galvanic cell with the male which is stamped and not worked despite them both being the same grade of brass
The tubular Molex type is not worked as much so is less corrosion prone than the flat blade type .
