all my engine was running fine although I was sure it has some sort of issue, it seems to spit oil out ... but now it wont start , it was running fine, then I hopped off to shut a gate , now it does not even try to start. I replaced the plug but I think I am not getting a spark. Can someone point me to a troubleshooting manual and or engine wiring diagram. model is 33m677 type 0123 G1 code 090416ZD (the engine is on a country clipper.)
Take the plugs out and check for spark. When you replaced the spark plug what did the old plug look like?
#6
txzrider
I had replaced the plug to start with. Also this morning I decided to try 1 more time before pulling out my volt meter and taking all the covers off... the #$#$ thing started. Seems to cut out a little a medium rpms' but runs fine at the normal full throttle. It normally wont try to start if there is an interlock problem... so that makes me think it is an electrical issue. I guess when it acts up I will have to go through the troubleshooting afterall.
#7
Fish
Sounds like you have some water/crap in your gas, which will hopefully burn through.
#8
txzrider
Well we will see... I have a heavy duty fuel filter inline. also if it was crap gas, I have to believe spraying starter fluid in it would have at least made it try to start after the plug was replaced.
#9
Fish
Yeah, a bunch of water will do that.....
#10
Fish
90% of the problems on these forums are fuel related, they usually go off track immediately chasing other gremlins, which makes
for a lot of fun here.....
#11
txzrider
ok... I have just never had one where trying to start it with starter fluid right after installing a fresh plug did not get it to at least try to start.
#12
Fish
Well, drying out the fuel system is cheap, free, and easy to do. And the first thing I always do. Taking the cap off of the fuel tank, and stuffing a clean rag halfway in there and letting it sit in the sun, and wick away that water, also loosen the nut on the bottom of the carb, and let that water dribble out and dry in the sun as well.
#13
txzrider
you keep assuming there was water in the engine. I do not have any evidence of that.
#14
Fish
Yeah, I assume a lot......
Ok, take the kill wire off of the coil, but to shut off, you will need to choke the engine or else pull the plug wire to shut it down. This will eliminate the wiring {except for the coil itself}. Then if you still keep having these intermittent problems, then you have compression and/or fuel to look at. And most fuel problems involve water/crap in the fuel system.
Took my fluke and put negative to engine and touched the Black terminal on the starter solenoid and engine rotated. Bad starter? I replaced it, maybe put old one on and try
You are there with the mower right in front of your face.
We are here with nothing to on but what you tell us.
Wont Start , not trying to start etc etc etc are meaningless.
Rotates at usual speed but wont fire tells us something useful
Rotates then hesistates tells us some thing useful.
While you have a Briggs & Stratton engine , that is only 1/2 the story.
It is fitted to something and that something has a model number which can be used to reveal the wiring diagrams which are very helpful when trying to work out why an engine will not run.
Generally a shut down then no start problem will be in the mowers wiring not the engines wiring.
If the engine rotates then pop an inline spark tester in a new plug and see if you get flashes when the engine rotates.
If not disconnect the cut out wires to the magneto coils and try again.
If you get a spark the second time & not the first then the wiring is the problem.
If the engine does not crank then follow the proceedure below, EXACTLY and let us know what you find.
This is not the only way to do it but it is my way to do it and the individual tests need to be done in the order listed.
Before you start, pull the spark plug & try to rotate the engine by hand.
No use checking the electrics if you have a hydraulic lock, seized engine or jambed belt overloading the stater motor.
Assuming the engine turns freely.
I like to start from the starter motor and go backwards .
Do the following 5 tests, regardless of the results from an or all of them as there can be more than one problem and you want to isolate where the problem lies.
Elimination of individual parts is important so you know by the end, the battery, solenoid & heavy power circuits are all in good order.
1) try to jump the starter motor directly from your car or truck.
Starter turns = starter good
2) do the same directly from the mowers battery
Starter turns = mower battery good
No turn = duff battery, recharge it & try again.
3) check for voltage ( + 12V ) at the solenoid trigger wire with the key in start position
3a) same with ground trigger wire ( 4 wire solenoid ) or body of solenoid ( 3 wire solenoid)
( I like to test V from the battery hot terminal to ground terminal rather than ohms as they give funny readings )
4) leave ground jumper in place ( from step 2 ) & try key start.
Starter turns = power connection good but ground connection suspect ( most common )
Confirm it by trying again, extra ground removed
I run a secondary ground from the grounding bolt to one of the starter mounting bolts & paint over both with liquid electrical tape.
5) Remove the trigger ( thin ) wire / wires from the solenoid.
Ground one & bridge from the hot terminal to the other.
Starter cranks = solenoid good.
Solenoid is not polarity sensitive, BUT THE WIRING IS so make sure you remove the thin control wires.
Note a thinner wire on the hot terminal is not a control wire. It is the main power feed to the mower.
From here on things become very mower dependant as starting circuits are getting changed all the time.
Basically the power goes in a loop from the hot side of the solenoid ( saves wire, no other reason ) through the fuse to the B terminal on the key switch then to the PTO switch then to the parking brake switch then to the solenoid trigger switch , easy peasy after you grow the 3rd arm. Use a test lamp and follow the power.
However a lot of mowers with a 4 pole solenoid, run a secondary ground control circuit to the ground solenoid wire through the lap bars.
Then to stop this interfearing with the normal safety function of the ground kill, it goes to a relay with the ground as the switched connection.
These are a PIA as the + control wire to the relay comes from the power loop above and the ground side of the control comes via the normal cut out functions of the lap bars.
Be very careful because if you have a system like this and accidentally send 12V down the ground loop you can fry the magnetos on some circuits.
#17
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Is this the same guy posting on another thread with the same issue ??
Well there is a start, so he has a timecutter with the 20Hp Briggs.
That will make things easier.
Penny should have dropped earlier.
HE has been given a set of things to do we will see what happens.
