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Powder Coating Anyone?
#1
d_sharier
d_sharier
I am going to start a restoration on one of my 5006 brick tops in the next week or 2. I am considering looking into powder coating the deck and shroud. I haven't went this route before. I'm just curious if anyone else has been through this process and what their experience has been? Is it cost effective? Longevity and durability of finish? Any thoughts or experience shared would be appreciated. Thanks!!!!
#2
Two-Stroke
Two-Stroke
This is a very interesting topic -- but one which I know little about.
Wikipedia on Powder Coating -- I had only a vague idea what it is until I read this.
I'll add a question: is it feasible as a DIY process? Or... how expensive is the equipment?
Wikipedia on Powder Coating -- I had only a vague idea what it is until I read this.
I'll add a question: is it feasible as a DIY process? Or... how expensive is the equipment?
#3
BWH
BWH
Powder Coating is very durable but due to the process of baking the powder to the surface it could be an expensive DYI project. It may be more affordable to find a local shop that takes on small projects. I have a local Rod-Iron manufacturer that will do side projects, I have seen everything from bicycle frames to full stock car frames come out of the booth. I believe you would have to do the whole deck top and bottom but not sure. These guys are fairly reasonable as far as painting goes.
#4
d_sharier
I have a friend that bought a second hand electric oven and has started doing small pieces parts, in basic colors (black, blue) with pretty good success. I'm sure there is a learning curve. I thought given the size of a mower deck, even a 19 inch push, it maybe difficult to find an oven that will be large enough. That coupled with the Lawn-Boy green color steers me from trying it myself right out the gate. I'd like to see what a professional job looks like first. There are a few companies local to me that advertise "no job too small". I am sure it's more like " No job too small, as long as Your wallet isn't too thin!" LOL . I haven't got an actual quote yet, but I have heard rumors ranging from $50-$80. When I paint one of these decks: I strip it down to the bare metal with a combination of stripper and sanding. Usually 2 cans of primer, 2 cans of color, and 2 cans of clear, with a little of each left over for the next. I use the Duplicolor ceramic paint, only because it hasn't disappointed me yet. That stuff is $7 a can. So if I get by with using 5 cans that is $35. Given the time involved with prep work, sanding in between coats, buffing, and then waiting for it to fully cure, the $50-$80 price point seems attractive. There is something to be said for handing over a deck and a little bit of cash and picking it back up a few days later, ready to work. LOL. Once I get a few quotes here locally, I will post some numbers. I have heard that "they" are very successful at color matching too. So we will see.
d_sharier
Powder Coating is very durable but due to the process of baking the powder to the surface it could be an expensive DYI project. It may be more affordable to find a local shop that takes on small projects. I have a local Rod-Iron manufacturer that will do side projects, I have seen everything from bicycle frames to full stock car frames come out of the booth. I believe you would have to do the whole deck top and bottom but not sure. These guys are fairly reasonable as far as painting goes.
I have a friend that bought a second hand electric oven and has started doing small pieces parts, in basic colors (black, blue) with pretty good success. I'm sure there is a learning curve. I thought given the size of a mower deck, even a 19 inch push, it maybe difficult to find an oven that will be large enough. That coupled with the Lawn-Boy green color steers me from trying it myself right out the gate. I'd like to see what a professional job looks like first. There are a few companies local to me that advertise "no job too small". I am sure it's more like " No job too small, as long as Your wallet isn't too thin!" LOL . I haven't got an actual quote yet, but I have heard rumors ranging from $50-$80. When I paint one of these decks: I strip it down to the bare metal with a combination of stripper and sanding. Usually 2 cans of primer, 2 cans of color, and 2 cans of clear, with a little of each left over for the next. I use the Duplicolor ceramic paint, only because it hasn't disappointed me yet. That stuff is $7 a can. So if I get by with using 5 cans that is $35. Given the time involved with prep work, sanding in between coats, buffing, and then waiting for it to fully cure, the $50-$80 price point seems attractive. There is something to be said for handing over a deck and a little bit of cash and picking it back up a few days later, ready to work. LOL. Once I get a few quotes here locally, I will post some numbers. I have heard that "they" are very successful at color matching too. So we will see.
#5
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
By far the best thing you can do is the full POR 15 route and you can do all that with a brush while you breathe.
Once fully cured the POR 15 is unremovable by any mechanical means will never wear through and never rust underneath as it chemically combines with the steel.
Only down side ( and the way to remove it ) is POR 15 base coat is not UV stable so you must finish off with a top coat & their enamel top coat is excellent.
the chassis paint has a short shelf life and once opened the can will go off no matter what you do so only buy the size cans you need as you need them.
BVrushes can not be washed so they become throw away items thus don't use expensive brushes.
It is thinner than water and will self level ( no brush marks ).
Stock & trade for most car restorers
Once fully cured the POR 15 is unremovable by any mechanical means will never wear through and never rust underneath as it chemically combines with the steel.
Only down side ( and the way to remove it ) is POR 15 base coat is not UV stable so you must finish off with a top coat & their enamel top coat is excellent.
the chassis paint has a short shelf life and once opened the can will go off no matter what you do so only buy the size cans you need as you need them.
BVrushes can not be washed so they become throw away items thus don't use expensive brushes.
It is thinner than water and will self level ( no brush marks ).
Stock & trade for most car restorers
#6
J
jp1961
J
jp1961
Powder coating sounds interesting. Will be interesting to see how it holds up, especially under the deck. I wonder if epoxy based paint would be an alternative. Something like Imron.
#7
bt3
bt3
Powder Coating to me is something I'd not personally consider for a Lawnmower, unless I was going to put it in a museum or just have it as a showpiece and wanted it to look just so. It's very expensive and thus I see it mostly done on custom work on Motorcycles or other items that need to look great but may get some abuse out in the elements. If you ever watched "American Chopper" or "American Restoration" you see them Powder Coat a lot of items that are going to be showpieces.
This being said, if you have the means, why not? You can Powder Coat anything that can take the baking process, if you have the funds and the interest. Why not a Lawnmower? It's just something I would not do. I'd not do Lacquer paint either. Too much fussing, coatings, drips, runs, etc. I spent years perfecting my Lacquer technique when I was into body work and wanted to use Lacquer. Big PITA for me....But.... to each their own. I've actually thought about using Lacquer on my Snapper, but quickly dismissed this as too much work. I just bought some touch-up paint and left it at that.
Keep us posted. I bet it would look good. Sure would be durable.
This being said, if you have the means, why not? You can Powder Coat anything that can take the baking process, if you have the funds and the interest. Why not a Lawnmower? It's just something I would not do. I'd not do Lacquer paint either. Too much fussing, coatings, drips, runs, etc. I spent years perfecting my Lacquer technique when I was into body work and wanted to use Lacquer. Big PITA for me....But.... to each their own. I've actually thought about using Lacquer on my Snapper, but quickly dismissed this as too much work. I just bought some touch-up paint and left it at that.
Keep us posted. I bet it would look good. Sure would be durable.
#8
d_sharier
I guess, for me, it will be a balance somewhere between time saved and money spent. When I restore a mower and work on the deck it is always an all or nothing thing. If I decide to paint it,then it is a long process. To strip the old finish off and sand the rest to bare metal. Then primer it, wet sand. Then color, wet sand. Then clear, wet sand, and lastly buff. To do one deck usually cost around $55 in paint and materials (sand paper, stripper, etc.) Not to mention the time involved. Just prepping the deck takes a few hours. Then the time sanding and painting. On top of that waiting the full cure period before putting the machine to work. The Duplicolor that I use calls for something like a week, but in reality its more like 2-3. I think the 1 week period they call for is in only perfect conditions. One coat only, on a perfect sheet of metal, with a perfect prep, outside in hot sunny weather, you get my drift. In the real world, at least mine, it seems to be a minimum of 15 days to become a great, durable finish. Now the 2 estimates I have been given were both about $100 to do the deck and shroud of a 19 inch bricktop. That is prep work and all. I strip the deck of all ancillary parts and pull the shroud off the motor, take them to the shop and drop off. A few days later they will hand me back a finished, fully cured and ready to work product. In my mind it doesn't seem that expensive when compared to the alternative rattle can option. Especially considering the difference in durability difference.
We will see what happens. I will get started in the next couple of weeks. I report back on price, turn around time, and finished product.
d_sharier
bt3
Re: Powder Coating Anyone?
Powder Coating to me is something I'd not personally consider for a Lawnmower, unless I was going to put it in a museum or just have it as a showpiece and wanted it to look just so. It's very expensive and thus I see it mostly done on custom work on Motorcycles or other items that need to look great but may get some abuse out in the elements. If you ever watched "American Chopper" or "American Restoration" you see them Powder Coat a lot of items that are going to be showpieces.
This being said, if you have the means, why not? You can Powder Coat anything that can take the baking process, if you have the funds and the interest. Why not a Lawnmower? It's just something I would not do. I'd not do Lacquer paint either. Too much fussing, coatings, drips, runs, etc. I spent years perfecting my Lacquer technique when I was into body work and wanted to use Lacquer. Big PITA for me....But.... to each their own. I've actually thought about using Lacquer on my Snapper, but quickly dismissed this as too much work. I just bought some touch-up paint and left it at that.
Keep us posted. I bet it would look good. Sure would be durable.
I guess, for me, it will be a balance somewhere between time saved and money spent. When I restore a mower and work on the deck it is always an all or nothing thing. If I decide to paint it,then it is a long process. To strip the old finish off and sand the rest to bare metal. Then primer it, wet sand. Then color, wet sand. Then clear, wet sand, and lastly buff. To do one deck usually cost around $55 in paint and materials (sand paper, stripper, etc.) Not to mention the time involved. Just prepping the deck takes a few hours. Then the time sanding and painting. On top of that waiting the full cure period before putting the machine to work. The Duplicolor that I use calls for something like a week, but in reality its more like 2-3. I think the 1 week period they call for is in only perfect conditions. One coat only, on a perfect sheet of metal, with a perfect prep, outside in hot sunny weather, you get my drift. In the real world, at least mine, it seems to be a minimum of 15 days to become a great, durable finish. Now the 2 estimates I have been given were both about $100 to do the deck and shroud of a 19 inch bricktop. That is prep work and all. I strip the deck of all ancillary parts and pull the shroud off the motor, take them to the shop and drop off. A few days later they will hand me back a finished, fully cured and ready to work product. In my mind it doesn't seem that expensive when compared to the alternative rattle can option. Especially considering the difference in durability difference.
We will see what happens. I will get started in the next couple of weeks. I report back on price, turn around time, and finished product.
#9
unclelee
unclelee
I seem to remember it being suggested not to powder coat the shroud but to paint it and coat the deck...something to do with a solder joint if I'm not mistaken. ..may not apply to your machine though...just something to be aware of...
Lee
Lee
#10
bt3
That makes perfect sense to me. Time is money. And, Powder Coating does look great, is durable, and would set the machine apart.
Please do keep us informed. I never really considered Powder Coating a mower, but now you've got me and probably some others interested. A professional Powder Coater with his shop of Sand Blasting and Prepping will have a mower deck looking great in a fraction of the time. You're just trading time for money. Can't wait to see the reports (and Pictures) if you decide to proceed.
Good thread. Thanks.
bt3
I guess, for me, it will be a balance somewhere between time saved and money spent. When I restore a mower and work on the deck it is always an all or nothing thing. If I decide to paint it,then it is a long process. To strip the old finish off and sand the rest to bare metal. Then primer it, wet sand. Then color, wet sand. Then clear, wet sand, and lastly buff. To do one deck usually cost around $55 in paint and materials (sand paper, stripper, etc.) Not to mention the time involved. Just prepping the deck takes a few hours. Then the time sanding and painting. On top of that waiting the full cure period before putting the machine to work. The Duplicolor that I use calls for something like a week, but in reality its more like 2-3. I think the 1 week period they call for is in only perfect conditions. One coat only, on a perfect sheet of metal, with a perfect prep, outside in hot sunny weather, you get my drift. In the real world, at least mine, it seems to be a minimum of 15 days to become a great, durable finish. Now the 2 estimates I have been given were both about $100 to do the deck and shroud of a 19 inch bricktop. That is prep work and all. I strip the deck of all ancillary parts and pull the shroud off the motor, take them to the shop and drop off. A few days later they will hand me back a finished, fully cured and ready to work product. In my mind it doesn't seem that expensive when compared to the alternative rattle can option. Especially considering the difference in durability difference.
We will see what happens. I will get started in the next couple of weeks. I report back on price, turn around time, and finished product.
That makes perfect sense to me. Time is money. And, Powder Coating does look great, is durable, and would set the machine apart.
Please do keep us informed. I never really considered Powder Coating a mower, but now you've got me and probably some others interested. A professional Powder Coater with his shop of Sand Blasting and Prepping will have a mower deck looking great in a fraction of the time. You're just trading time for money. Can't wait to see the reports (and Pictures) if you decide to proceed.
Good thread. Thanks.
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
the problem is there is power coating and powder coating and power coating.
The very best stuff chemically strips off the old paint then does a chemical clean followed by any repairs followed an another chemical clean followed by a controlled rusting followed by a powder coating followed by a full furnace vitrification.
In the end you have a part that is like a bath tub where the top coat is chemically bonded to the basecoat & to itself so if it is breached any where there is no corrosion & no lifting.
At the other end is a chemical degrease then a plastic top coat that envelopes the parts with little to no corrosion protection underneath so the first time the coating is compromised it will start to rust between the steel & the thick plastic coating. We have all seen this, cheap garden furniture where the top coat cracks then peels off in large lumps. Think about it as laminating for real objects.
Best by far is an active etch primer either a zinc rich one or somthing like the POR 15 mentioned earlier. So that if the paint is compromised any damage will be limited to the immediate area and not cause the entire coating to lift off after the base metal has become so badly rusted it is beyond economic repair which you can not see happeing because it is happening under the platic top coat.
Now as for doing it yourself the go is a big steel or copper pot on the barby with a boiling solution of caustic soda ( lye to some ).
This will lift all the paint off lift the rust off as well as degreasing in one ( long ) step that requires almost no effort.
Wash the clean part with hot water & blow dry quickly and then paint immediately .
Do not touch the cleaned parts with your bare hands.
You can give the parts a molasses treatment if you are not ready to paint immediately and the molasses ( phosphate ) surface can be painted directly over with no need for anything more then a light wipe with a tac rag.
A pound of Caustic and a pound of molasses will cost about $ 5.00 all up.
Better still is the old solutions can be poped into some old 4 gal plastic drums ( you see them every where on the side of the road ) for future use.
The molasses will stink but is fine . The lye needs to cool then be decanted.
the dreggs in the bottom of the boiling drum with all the crud it has removed can be neutralised with some muratic acid then allowed to evaporate off, The remaining crud gets wrapped in paper & popped into the garbage bin.
The very best stuff chemically strips off the old paint then does a chemical clean followed by any repairs followed an another chemical clean followed by a controlled rusting followed by a powder coating followed by a full furnace vitrification.
In the end you have a part that is like a bath tub where the top coat is chemically bonded to the basecoat & to itself so if it is breached any where there is no corrosion & no lifting.
At the other end is a chemical degrease then a plastic top coat that envelopes the parts with little to no corrosion protection underneath so the first time the coating is compromised it will start to rust between the steel & the thick plastic coating. We have all seen this, cheap garden furniture where the top coat cracks then peels off in large lumps. Think about it as laminating for real objects.
Best by far is an active etch primer either a zinc rich one or somthing like the POR 15 mentioned earlier. So that if the paint is compromised any damage will be limited to the immediate area and not cause the entire coating to lift off after the base metal has become so badly rusted it is beyond economic repair which you can not see happeing because it is happening under the platic top coat.
Now as for doing it yourself the go is a big steel or copper pot on the barby with a boiling solution of caustic soda ( lye to some ).
This will lift all the paint off lift the rust off as well as degreasing in one ( long ) step that requires almost no effort.
Wash the clean part with hot water & blow dry quickly and then paint immediately .
Do not touch the cleaned parts with your bare hands.
You can give the parts a molasses treatment if you are not ready to paint immediately and the molasses ( phosphate ) surface can be painted directly over with no need for anything more then a light wipe with a tac rag.
A pound of Caustic and a pound of molasses will cost about $ 5.00 all up.
Better still is the old solutions can be poped into some old 4 gal plastic drums ( you see them every where on the side of the road ) for future use.
The molasses will stink but is fine . The lye needs to cool then be decanted.
the dreggs in the bottom of the boiling drum with all the crud it has removed can be neutralised with some muratic acid then allowed to evaporate off, The remaining crud gets wrapped in paper & popped into the garbage bin.
#12
unclelee
unclelee
Yeah...glad you brought the subject up...I have been meaning to get the front guard ( rake) and handle brackets for my 8FH11LB zinc plated...but the nearest place is about 50 miles from here, and time hasn't allowed me to get there.
I started checking out powder coat colors and have found they have a very nice selection including near chrome..?...lol
I have a powder coater with in about 10 miles from me....you have given me pause to reconsider my options.
Lee
I started checking out powder coat colors and have found they have a very nice selection including near chrome..?...lol
I have a powder coater with in about 10 miles from me....you have given me pause to reconsider my options.
Lee
#13
bt3
This was a very informative and a good read, Bert! Thanks for the information.
I'd never consider powder coating a lawnmower myself, but do appreciate the information and the ideas in this thread. I really like the example of the cracking of large lumps off of Lawn furniture. Excellent visual in my head now.
Mele Kalikimaka! (Merry Christmas in Hawaiian).
bt3
the problem is there is power coating and powder coating and power coating.
The very best stuff chemically strips off the old paint then does a chemical clean followed by any repairs followed an another chemical clean followed by a controlled rusting followed by a powder coating followed by a full furnace vitrification.
In the end you have a part that is like a bath tub where the top coat is chemically bonded to the basecoat & to itself so if it is breached any where there is no corrosion & no lifting.
At the other end is a chemical degrease then a plastic top coat that envelopes the parts with little to no corrosion protection underneath so the first time the coating is compromised it will start to rust between the steel & the thick plastic coating. We have all seen this, cheap garden furniture where the top coat cracks then peels off in large lumps. Think about it as laminating for real objects.
Best by far is an active etch primer either a zinc rich one or somthing like the POR 15 mentioned earlier. So that if the paint is compromised any damage will be limited to the immediate area and not cause the entire coating to lift off after the base metal has become so badly rusted it is beyond economic repair which you can not see happeing because it is happening under the platic top coat.
Now as for doing it yourself the go is a big steel or copper pot on the barby with a boiling solution of caustic soda ( lye to some ).
This will lift all the paint off lift the rust off as well as degreasing in one ( long ) step that requires almost no effort.
Wash the clean part with hot water & blow dry quickly and then paint immediately .
Do not touch the cleaned parts with your bare hands.
You can give the parts a molasses treatment if you are not ready to paint immediately and the molasses ( phosphate ) surface can be painted directly over with no need for anything more then a light wipe with a tac rag.
A pound of Caustic and a pound of molasses will cost about $ 5.00 all up.
Better still is the old solutions can be poped into some old 4 gal plastic drums ( you see them every where on the side of the road ) for future use.
The molasses will stink but is fine . The lye needs to cool then be decanted.
the dreggs in the bottom of the boiling drum with all the crud it has removed can be neutralised with some muratic acid then allowed to evaporate off, The remaining crud gets wrapped in paper & popped into the garbage bin.
This was a very informative and a good read, Bert! Thanks for the information.
I'd never consider powder coating a lawnmower myself, but do appreciate the information and the ideas in this thread. I really like the example of the cracking of large lumps off of Lawn furniture. Excellent visual in my head now.
Mele Kalikimaka! (Merry Christmas in Hawaiian).
#14
B
bertsmobile1
The major push mower factory in OZ ( Victa) use a particularly bad quality powder coating now days which lifts off all over the place particularly under the carb where fuel drops.
It also seems to be really porous ( all paints are porus to a varing degree ) but this stuff offers zero rust protection under the deck where wet grass accumulates.
They have really gone down the drain since Briggs took them over, Victa used to be world leaders and very innovative .
I used to be able to chemically clean off the rust then touch up but now I have to do a full strip and bare metal respray.
The old bases used to be good for 50+ years the new ones only just get past warrantee before they start to rust badly and in particular the 19" decks.
I rebuild 30 year old mowers better than the current new ones
So not supprisingly the imported mowers are killing them in the market
B
bertsmobile1
This was a very informative and a good read, Bert! Thanks for the information.
I'd never consider powder coating a lawnmower myself, but do appreciate the information and the ideas in this thread. I really like the example of the cracking of large lumps off of Lawn furniture. Excellent visual in my head now.
Mele Kalikimaka! (Merry Christmas in Hawaiian).
The major push mower factory in OZ ( Victa) use a particularly bad quality powder coating now days which lifts off all over the place particularly under the carb where fuel drops.
It also seems to be really porous ( all paints are porus to a varing degree ) but this stuff offers zero rust protection under the deck where wet grass accumulates.
They have really gone down the drain since Briggs took them over, Victa used to be world leaders and very innovative .
I used to be able to chemically clean off the rust then touch up but now I have to do a full strip and bare metal respray.
The old bases used to be good for 50+ years the new ones only just get past warrantee before they start to rust badly and in particular the 19" decks.
I rebuild 30 year old mowers better than the current new ones
So not supprisingly the imported mowers are killing them in the market
#15
Two-Stroke
Does Victa still make two-cycle mowers? Do they make an alloy (Al/Mg) deck? I'd think that any premium mower would have a deck that won't rust.
Maybe there could be a Victa forum here. I would like to see some photos.
Thanks for the imput from Down Under. :thumbsup:
Two-Stroke
The major push mower factory in OZ ( Victa) use a particularly bad quality powder coating now days which lifts off all over the place particularly under the carb where fuel drops.
It also seems to be really porous ( all paints are porus to a varing degree ) but this stuff offers zero rust protection under the deck where wet grass accumulates.
They have really gone down the drain since Briggs took them over, Victa used to be world leaders and very innovative .
I used to be able to chemically clean off the rust then touch up but now I have to do a full strip and bare metal respray.
The old bases used to be good for 50+ years the new ones only just get past warrantee before they start to rust badly and in particular the 19" decks.
I rebuild 30 year old mowers better than the current new ones
So not supprisingly the imported mowers are killing them in the market
Does Victa still make two-cycle mowers? Do they make an alloy (Al/Mg) deck? I'd think that any premium mower would have a deck that won't rust.
Maybe there could be a Victa forum here. I would like to see some photos.
Thanks for the imput from Down Under. :thumbsup:
#16
B
bertsmobile1
Yes they still do the pressure die cast alloy bases but they are dearer than the pressed steel bases.
Victa abondond the top end of the market after the failure of the Vortex. Absolutely brilliant mower, just not moron idiot proof enough.
Contry to popular belief the old steel decks were far superior to alloy decks . The new one are about as thick as bottle caps.
I have a yard full of HRU's & HRC's with smashed decks where a rock has gone through the side , which if not welded up pronto causes the deck to virtually fracture to the point of becoming a banana .
Honda has blitzed the top end of the market where all the alloy decks are. Some very schrewd marketing to the tradeies. Over rated, under powered but good for me because they cost a bomb to repair and require a lot of maintenance.
Briggs are discontinuing the the worlds best mower engine in 2016. And most likely closing down local plant all together replaceing them with badge engineered USA models.
They have done no development on the Power torque since the take over on 2008 and have deen disproportionally jacking up the price of the 2 strokes from the day they took over.
Shame, it is a beautiful engine, will do better than 40 years with just minimal service, the LM / G4 carby is a functional work of design art, the diaphram govenor never gives a stick of trouble and with all control cables hidden inside the snorkel you never have the "bashed in throttle control" problems you get with the Briggs. Gravity fed fuel line with tap so you can run the carb dry thus avoiding all the ethanol problems that plague B & S carbs and with the fuel intake so high in the vertical float chamber will run with 1/2 the float bowl full of water which rarely happens because the only place water can get in is the thin slit for the throttle lever and then mostly it runs down the outside of the air filter and drains out the cable adjustment hole.
Oddly enough Honda has just caught up with Victa after 69 years they are finally fitting snorkels as standard to all their commercial walk behinds but still leaving the laid up bowden cable to the throttle with the big dip in it so it will rust up solid over winter which will be good for me, lots of expensive repairs which owners are happy to pay for on a $ 1500 mower.
If a lot of members want to see pickies start a new thread and I will happily post them.
OTOH if you are the only one with taste & distinction then email me bertsmobile@tpg.com.au and I will put as many photos of whatever you want on dropbox ( free cloud web server ) for your pleasure.
B
bertsmobile1
Does Victa still make two-cycle mowers? Do they make an alloy (Al/Mg) deck? I'd think that any premium mower would have a deck that won't rust.
Maybe there could be a Victa forum here. I would like to see some photos.
Thanks for the imput from Down Under. :thumbsup:
Yes they still do the pressure die cast alloy bases but they are dearer than the pressed steel bases.
Victa abondond the top end of the market after the failure of the Vortex. Absolutely brilliant mower, just not moron idiot proof enough.
Contry to popular belief the old steel decks were far superior to alloy decks . The new one are about as thick as bottle caps.
I have a yard full of HRU's & HRC's with smashed decks where a rock has gone through the side , which if not welded up pronto causes the deck to virtually fracture to the point of becoming a banana .
Honda has blitzed the top end of the market where all the alloy decks are. Some very schrewd marketing to the tradeies. Over rated, under powered but good for me because they cost a bomb to repair and require a lot of maintenance.
Briggs are discontinuing the the worlds best mower engine in 2016. And most likely closing down local plant all together replaceing them with badge engineered USA models.
They have done no development on the Power torque since the take over on 2008 and have deen disproportionally jacking up the price of the 2 strokes from the day they took over.
Shame, it is a beautiful engine, will do better than 40 years with just minimal service, the LM / G4 carby is a functional work of design art, the diaphram govenor never gives a stick of trouble and with all control cables hidden inside the snorkel you never have the "bashed in throttle control" problems you get with the Briggs. Gravity fed fuel line with tap so you can run the carb dry thus avoiding all the ethanol problems that plague B & S carbs and with the fuel intake so high in the vertical float chamber will run with 1/2 the float bowl full of water which rarely happens because the only place water can get in is the thin slit for the throttle lever and then mostly it runs down the outside of the air filter and drains out the cable adjustment hole.
Oddly enough Honda has just caught up with Victa after 69 years they are finally fitting snorkels as standard to all their commercial walk behinds but still leaving the laid up bowden cable to the throttle with the big dip in it so it will rust up solid over winter which will be good for me, lots of expensive repairs which owners are happy to pay for on a $ 1500 mower.
If a lot of members want to see pickies start a new thread and I will happily post them.
OTOH if you are the only one with taste & distinction then email me bertsmobile@tpg.com.au and I will put as many photos of whatever you want on dropbox ( free cloud web server ) for your pleasure.
#17
Two-Stroke
I started a Victa thread in "Small Engine & Mower Repair". All this Victa stuff is interesting but it doesn't belong in the LB forum. :ashamed:
I'd like to hear more about the brand -- particularly the two-cycle engines. Photos would be appreciated. :thumbsup:
Link to the Victa thread (with photos)
Two-Stroke
Yes they still do the pressure die cast alloy bases but they are dearer than the pressed steel bases.
Victa abondond the top end of the market after the failure of the Vortex. Absolutely brilliant mower, just not moron idiot proof enough.
Contry to popular belief the old steel decks were far superior to alloy decks . The new one are about as thick as bottle caps.
I have a yard full of HRU's & HRC's with smashed decks where a rock has gone through the side , which if not welded up pronto causes the deck to virtually fracture to the point of becoming a banana .
Honda has blitzed the top end of the market where all the alloy decks are. Some very schrewd marketing to the tradeies. Over rated, under powered but good for me because they cost a bomb to repair and require a lot of maintenance.
Briggs are discontinuing the the worlds best mower engine in 2016. And most likely closing down local plant all together replaceing them with badge engineered USA models.
They have done no development on the Power torque since the take over on 2008 and have deen disproportionally jacking up the price of the 2 strokes from the day they took over.
Shame, it is a beautiful engine, will do better than 40 years with just minimal service, the LM / G4 carby is a functional work of design art, the diaphram govenor never gives a stick of trouble and with all control cables hidden inside the snorkel you never have the "bashed in throttle control" problems you get with the Briggs. Gravity fed fuel line with tap so you can run the carb dry thus avoiding all the ethanol problems that plague B & S carbs and with the fuel intake so high in the vertical float chamber will run with 1/2 the float bowl full of water which rarely happens because the only place water can get in is the thin slit for the throttle lever and then mostly it runs down the outside of the air filter and drains out the cable adjustment hole.
Oddly enough Honda has just caught up with Victa after 69 years they are finally fitting snorkels as standard to all their commercial walk behinds but still leaving the laid up bowden cable to the throttle with the big dip in it so it will rust up solid over winter which will be good for me, lots of expensive repairs which owners are happy to pay for on a $ 1500 mower.
If a lot of members want to see pickies start a new thread and I will happily post them.
OTOH if you are the only one with taste & distinction then email me bertsmobile@tpg.com.au and I will put as many photos of whatever you want on dropbox ( free cloud web server ) for your pleasure.
I started a Victa thread in "Small Engine & Mower Repair". All this Victa stuff is interesting but it doesn't belong in the LB forum. :ashamed:
I'd like to hear more about the brand -- particularly the two-cycle engines. Photos would be appreciated. :thumbsup:
Link to the Victa thread (with photos)