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Poulan Pro PR45Y22SB Throttle/Governor Issue
#1
L
lilychef
L
lilychef
Hi there! I am either missing a part on my mower, something is loose, broken, or detached, or something is out of adjustment. I've attached a picture of the throttle/governor linkage for you to see. I recently replaced the carburetor, and everything is hooked up exactly the way I found it. Nobody else has worked on this mower since we bought it. The engine will only either not start, or will start on full throttle, but the throttle control lever (the tortoise/hare lever) does absolutely nothing to control the engine speed. When it does start, it runs well, but only at full throttle. BTW - It ran before I changed the carb, too, but not as smoothly as now. That spring in the pic is VERY small and super-light, and doesn't seem to do anything. In all of the pics I've seen of similar B&S engines, there is another, much larger spring connecting the throttle lever to the throttle body. Could this be what I need? To makes things worse, B&S's own parts diagram doesn't completely match my engine, so they were no help on the phone and couldn't give me a part number for such a spring, if it exists. My engine model number is 10G902 0260 B1. Maybe I just don't understand how this all works, but it sure seems to me that the throttle lever should move the throttle plate, eh? Ha! Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
#2
Fish
Fish
Looks pretty rough. It also looks like I can see the remains of the intake o-ring laying where the carb fits onto the tube, which would cause all kind of trouble.
He is a blowup, which shows parts from several setups.
He is a blowup, which shows parts from several setups.
Attachments
#3
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
Everything looks like it is hooked up correctly. Is something binding the throttle someplace. the governor spring, even though small should open the throttle. the rod hooked to the throttle plate on the carb, should pull the engine out of thottle. So if the governor spring was too small the engine would only idle. I bet something is preventing the throttle from moving correctly, or the governor arm needs reset to the static governor position.
#4
L
lilychef
Thanks for the reply! The carb/o-ring, etc is all attached perfectly, and yes, that is the diagram I have been consulting; I was only doubting its accuracy because the governor arm shown is different than what's on the machine...
L
lilychef
Looks pretty rough. It also looks like I can see the remains of the intake o-ring laying where the carb fits onto the tube, which would cause all kind of trouble.
He is a blowup, which shows parts from several setups.
Thanks for the reply! The carb/o-ring, etc is all attached perfectly, and yes, that is the diagram I have been consulting; I was only doubting its accuracy because the governor arm shown is different than what's on the machine...
#5
L
lilychef
The throttle lever and throttle plate itself move freely by hand, as does the governor arm, altho the governor arm does seem a bit hard to move. I'm not sure how to reset the governor arm, tho, that could be it. How is that done? Should I replace the governor spring in case it has lost tension? Thanks so much for the reply!
L
lilychef
Everything looks like it is hooked up correctly. Is something binding the throttle someplace. the governor spring, even though small should open the throttle. the rod hooked to the throttle plate on the carb, should pull the engine out of thottle. So if the governor spring was too small the engine would only idle. I bet something is preventing the throttle from moving correctly, or the governor arm needs reset to the static governor position.
The throttle lever and throttle plate itself move freely by hand, as does the governor arm, altho the governor arm does seem a bit hard to move. I'm not sure how to reset the governor arm, tho, that could be it. How is that done? Should I replace the governor spring in case it has lost tension? Thanks so much for the reply!
#6
L
lilychef
Come to think of it, the governor arm was fairly difficult to move, and it even "popped" into a different position, as I remember. Do they need servicing as well as adjusting? Like lubrication? Or can they go "bad" and need replacing?
L
lilychef
Everything looks like it is hooked up correctly. Is something binding the throttle someplace. the governor spring, even though small should open the throttle. the rod hooked to the throttle plate on the carb, should pull the engine out of thottle. So if the governor spring was too small the engine would only idle. I bet something is preventing the throttle from moving correctly, or the governor arm needs reset to the static governor position.
Come to think of it, the governor arm was fairly difficult to move, and it even "popped" into a different position, as I remember. Do they need servicing as well as adjusting? Like lubrication? Or can they go "bad" and need replacing?
#7
I
ILENGINE
I
ILENGINE
May need to remove the blower housing to see if anything is binding the governor linkage. To reset the governor if it has moved, loosen the nut that holds the governor arm, move the throttle plate to the fast position which is toward the governor spring. watch what direction the governor shaft turns to move to the fast position, and while holding in the fast position, retighten the nut on the governor arm.
#8
L
lilychef
THANKS! I'm all over this... I'm also reading that some smaller mowers have an "air vane governor" than can get clogged up? Does this model engine have that type? I can't tell from the parts diagram... You have been very helpful.... I really appreciate it.
L
lilychef
May need to remove the blower housing to see if anything is binding the governor linkage. To reset the governor if it has moved, loosen the nut that holds the governor arm, move the throttle plate to the fast position which is toward the governor spring. watch what direction the governor shaft turns to move to the fast position, and while holding in the fast position, retighten the nut on the governor arm.
THANKS! I'm all over this... I'm also reading that some smaller mowers have an "air vane governor" than can get clogged up? Does this model engine have that type? I can't tell from the parts diagram... You have been very helpful.... I really appreciate it.
#10
L
lilychef
Excellent. Thanks once again! I'm sure I'll have this problem licked soon. The mower is at my girlfriend's rental house. so I'll report back once I'm able to get over there and work on it.
L
lilychef
You have the mechanical governor, not the air vane governor.
Excellent. Thanks once again! I'm sure I'll have this problem licked soon. The mower is at my girlfriend's rental house. so I'll report back once I'm able to get over there and work on it.
#11
M
MowerPro2
I just joined the the Forum, and I just wanted to say hello from Michigan The Great Lakes State. I've been a mechanic for 40+ years. I have a Poulan PR45Y22SA 4.5 hp I don't know what the diff is between the two is. But looking at the governor linkage mine has a loop 2-3 inches from the throttle yours does not mine has one spring just like yours does Briggs part number 698719. After 10 years of service it finally started to act up rough idle, surging and blowing black smoke. I went out and bought a diaphragm kit part number 795083 also a primer bulb kit part number 694394 mite as well put it on while I have the carb off and get it over with. This is leading up to the spring. I read some of the other posts and here's another solution possibly. When I took the carb off I removed the spring first and when I did I must have pulled a little to hard on it and stretched it. 10 years of heat and weather and rust takes tension out of springs must have been time to replace it cause when I put it back on and started it up it run on full open throttle not good to run on OP you could blow a rod. You may want to check that. Check the linkage to make sure it's not binding in the throttle to. Where the spring hook on the bracket it's made in such a way that you can bend it ether way in or out to adjust the idle. Let me know how it goes. :smile:
M
MowerPro2
Hi lilychef.Hi there! I am either missing a part on my mower, something is loose, broken, or detached, or something is out of adjustment. I've attached a picture of the throttle/governor linkage for you to see. I recently replaced the carburetor, and everything is hooked up exactly the way I found it. Nobody else has worked on this mower since we bought it. The engine will only either not start, or will start on full throttle, but the throttle control lever (the tortoise/hare lever) does absolutely nothing to control the engine speed. When it does start, it runs well, but only at full throttle. BTW - It ran before I changed the carb, too, but not as smoothly as now. That spring in the pic is VERY small and super-light, and doesn't seem to do anything. In all of the pics I've seen of similar B&S engines, there is another, much larger spring connecting the throttle lever to the throttle body. Could this be what I need? To makes things worse, B&S's own parts diagram doesn't completely match my engine, so they were no help on the phone and couldn't give me a part number for such a spring, if it exists. My engine model number is 10G902 0260 B1. Maybe I just don't understand how this all works, but it sure seems to me that the throttle lever should move the throttle plate, eh? Ha! Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
View attachment 16606
I just joined the the Forum, and I just wanted to say hello from Michigan The Great Lakes State. I've been a mechanic for 40+ years. I have a Poulan PR45Y22SA 4.5 hp I don't know what the diff is between the two is. But looking at the governor linkage mine has a loop 2-3 inches from the throttle yours does not mine has one spring just like yours does Briggs part number 698719. After 10 years of service it finally started to act up rough idle, surging and blowing black smoke. I went out and bought a diaphragm kit part number 795083 also a primer bulb kit part number 694394 mite as well put it on while I have the carb off and get it over with. This is leading up to the spring. I read some of the other posts and here's another solution possibly. When I took the carb off I removed the spring first and when I did I must have pulled a little to hard on it and stretched it. 10 years of heat and weather and rust takes tension out of springs must have been time to replace it cause when I put it back on and started it up it run on full open throttle not good to run on OP you could blow a rod. You may want to check that. Check the linkage to make sure it's not binding in the throttle to. Where the spring hook on the bracket it's made in such a way that you can bend it ether way in or out to adjust the idle. Let me know how it goes. :smile:
#12
L
lilychef
Hello again! Ok - I did find some binding in the governor arm linkage. I must have bent the link slightly when installing the new carb. (Duh) It was butting up against the blower housing... BUT - I straightened it out, adjusted the static position of the governor, checked for further binding, found none, and the engine still runs at a pretty high rpm, but lower than before. I also replaced that tiny governor spring. Adjusting the throttle control does very little to lower it now, but it does lower it some where it didn't at all before. I adjusted the governer in the opposite direction thinking I had it backwards, and it would barely idle, so moved it back. Is there a "middle adjustment" for the governor? Can the governor itself go bad? Honestly, it sounds really good to me, but it's my girlfriend's mower, and she insists it runs too fast. She's had it ten years, and maybe she's just not used to hearing it run this well (new carb - hello?), but it does seem odd that I can't adjust the throttle down to a low idle. Any more ideas? Should I check the RPM with a tachometer? Thanks again!
L
lilychef
You have the mechanical governor, not the air vane governor.
Hello again! Ok - I did find some binding in the governor arm linkage. I must have bent the link slightly when installing the new carb. (Duh) It was butting up against the blower housing... BUT - I straightened it out, adjusted the static position of the governor, checked for further binding, found none, and the engine still runs at a pretty high rpm, but lower than before. I also replaced that tiny governor spring. Adjusting the throttle control does very little to lower it now, but it does lower it some where it didn't at all before. I adjusted the governer in the opposite direction thinking I had it backwards, and it would barely idle, so moved it back. Is there a "middle adjustment" for the governor? Can the governor itself go bad? Honestly, it sounds really good to me, but it's my girlfriend's mower, and she insists it runs too fast. She's had it ten years, and maybe she's just not used to hearing it run this well (new carb - hello?), but it does seem odd that I can't adjust the throttle down to a low idle. Any more ideas? Should I check the RPM with a tachometer? Thanks again!
#13
L
lilychef
Hi there, and thanks for replying! Sorry took so long to get back! And good question, what the difference is between our two may never be known! Ha! If you read my latest reply to ilengine, you'll see that I did replace the spring as well as doing all that other stuff... Also, if you look at the picture of my linkage, you'll see that there doesn't appear to be a way to bend the linkage to accomodate a spring tension change... or IS there? Maybe THAT'S the difference between the A and B models? I noticed in the exploded parts diagram for the 10G900 engines they show THREE different throttle linkage/governor spring configurations.... There's nothing binding the throttle itself, and it's a new carb, so.... I still think I just need to test the RPM at a no-load idle to see if it's really all that high.... Like I said, it sounds great to me, but I'm a hot rodder, so.... HA! Thanks for the input! I won't quit til I got this licked!
L
lilychef
Hi lilychef.
I just joined the the Forum, and I just wanted to say hello from Michigan The Great Lakes State. I've been a mechanic for 40+ years. I have a Poulan PR45Y22SA 4.5 hp I don't know what the diff is between the two is. But looking at the governor linkage mine has a loop 2-3 inches from the throttle yours does not mine has one spring just like yours does Briggs part number 698719. After 10 years of service it finally started to act up rough idle, surging and blowing black smoke. I went out and bought a diaphragm kit part number 795083 also a primer bulb kit part number 694394 mite as well put it on while I have the carb off and get it over with. This is leading up to the spring. I read some of the other posts and here's another solution possibly. When I took the carb off I removed the spring first and when I did I must have pulled a little to hard on it and stretched it. 10 years of heat and weather and rust takes tension out of springs must have been time to replace it cause when I put it back on and started it up it run on full open throttle not good to run on OP you could blow a rod. You may want to check that. Check the linkage to make sure it's not binding in the throttle to. Where the spring hook on the bracket it's made in such a way that you can bend it ether way in or out to adjust the idle. Let me know how it goes. :smile:
Hi there, and thanks for replying! Sorry took so long to get back! And good question, what the difference is between our two may never be known! Ha! If you read my latest reply to ilengine, you'll see that I did replace the spring as well as doing all that other stuff... Also, if you look at the picture of my linkage, you'll see that there doesn't appear to be a way to bend the linkage to accomodate a spring tension change... or IS there? Maybe THAT'S the difference between the A and B models? I noticed in the exploded parts diagram for the 10G900 engines they show THREE different throttle linkage/governor spring configurations.... There's nothing binding the throttle itself, and it's a new carb, so.... I still think I just need to test the RPM at a no-load idle to see if it's really all that high.... Like I said, it sounds great to me, but I'm a hot rodder, so.... HA! Thanks for the input! I won't quit til I got this licked!
#14
M
MowerPro2
My lawn mower was not made to run at low idle it runs at a little less than quarter, and most likely yours to since you have one spring. The ones that were made to run at low idle has two springs one is for the governor and the other is for the idle the systems use the Pulsa Prime Carb. You have the same configuration throttle adjustment that I have. The throttle control is made so you can adjust the rpm's. Where the spring hooks on to the loop you can bend it in towards the carb for more rpm's or bend it away from it for less. It's soft metal so bend it at a little at a time and don't break it. Briggs makes a special tool to bent these parts but I just use a pair of sharp nosed pliers
Steve.
M
MowerPro2
Hi there, and thanks for replying! Sorry took so long to get back! And good question, what the difference is between our two may never be known! Ha! If you read my latest reply to ilengine, you'll see that I did replace the spring as well as doing all that other stuff... Also, if you look at the picture of my linkage, you'll see that there doesn't appear to be a way to bend the linkage to accomodate a spring tension change... or IS there? Maybe THAT'S the difference between the A and B models? I noticed in the exploded parts diagram for the 10G900 engines they show THREE different throttle linkage/governor spring configurations.... There's nothing binding the throttle itself, and it's a new carb, so.... I still think I just need to test the RPM at a no-load idle to see if it's really all that high.... Like I said, it sounds great to me, but I'm a hot rodder, so.... HA! Thanks for the input! I won't quit til I got this licked!
My lawn mower was not made to run at low idle it runs at a little less than quarter, and most likely yours to since you have one spring. The ones that were made to run at low idle has two springs one is for the governor and the other is for the idle the systems use the Pulsa Prime Carb. You have the same configuration throttle adjustment that I have. The throttle control is made so you can adjust the rpm's. Where the spring hooks on to the loop you can bend it in towards the carb for more rpm's or bend it away from it for less. It's soft metal so bend it at a little at a time and don't break it. Briggs makes a special tool to bent these parts but I just use a pair of sharp nosed pliers
Steve.
#15
M
MowerPro2
I copied your photo to show you where to bend. Please read my last post before you do this. Hope this helps. Like I said these mowers were not meant to run at at low idle. Unless they have a two spring configuration.
Steve. :smile:
M
MowerPro2
My lawn mower was not made to run at low idle it runs at a little less than quarter, and most likely yours to since you have one spring. The ones that were made to run at low idle has two springs one is for the governor and the other is for the idle the systems use the Pulsa Prime Carb. You have the same configuration throttle adjustment that I have. The throttle control is made so you can adjust the rpm's. Where the spring hooks on to the loop you can bend it in towards the carb for more rpm's or bend it away from it for less. It's soft metal so bend it at a little at a time and don't break it. I don't know if I can post pic's here or not since I'am a new member. If you can send me the pic of your throttle control I can circle it and send it back to ya. My email is s243220@yahoo.com
Steve.
I copied your photo to show you where to bend. Please read my last post before you do this. Hope this helps. Like I said these mowers were not meant to run at at low idle. Unless they have a two spring configuration.
Steve. :smile:
#16
L
lilychef
Wow. That makes so much sense... Thank you!!!! Like I ssadi, I don't think it sounds that high, but my girlfriend does... (ahem... ha!) Now, should I adjust the idle while the engine is running, with the air cleaner off? Also, I spoke with B&S, and they said the normal idle rpm for this motor is 3100... Does that sound right? Should I tach it to make sure? Or should I just make sure it's not running at full-out throttle? Thanks again for your help!
L
lilychef
View attachment 16888
I copied your photo to show you where to bend. Please read my last post before you do this. Hope this helps. Like I said these mowers were not meant to run at at low idle. Unless they have a two spring configuration.
Steve. :smile:
Wow. That makes so much sense... Thank you!!!! Like I ssadi, I don't think it sounds that high, but my girlfriend does... (ahem... ha!) Now, should I adjust the idle while the engine is running, with the air cleaner off? Also, I spoke with B&S, and they said the normal idle rpm for this motor is 3100... Does that sound right? Should I tach it to make sure? Or should I just make sure it's not running at full-out throttle? Thanks again for your help!
#17
M
MowerPro2
I've been doing it so long that I do it by ear. But to be on the safe side please use a tach, 3100 is right. 3100 rpm's is your top governor speed. Ok here we go. 1. Worm up the engine to normal operating temperature then turn it off. 2. Take off the air cleaner. 3. Set your tach up start the engine. 4. You have a manual throttle. Set it to high. 5. Look at the tach Bend it a little at a time. Bend it in ether direction as shown in the picture that I circled. That's all there is to it your done. Like I said in the previous post these engines were not meant to run at low idle. Once you have set the top governor speed you are done. Make sure you have the throttle adjustment setting to high before you bend the linkage. Now go cut some grass LOL :thumbsup:
M
MowerPro2
Wow. That makes so much sense... Thank you!!!! Like I ssadi, I don't think it sounds that high, but my girlfriend does... (ahem... ha!) Now, should I adjust the idle while the engine is running, with the air cleaner off? Also, I spoke with B&S, and they said the normal idle rpm for this motor is 3100... Does that sound right? Should I tach it to make sure? Or should I just make sure it's not running at full-out throttle? Thanks again for your help!
I've been doing it so long that I do it by ear. But to be on the safe side please use a tach, 3100 is right. 3100 rpm's is your top governor speed. Ok here we go. 1. Worm up the engine to normal operating temperature then turn it off. 2. Take off the air cleaner. 3. Set your tach up start the engine. 4. You have a manual throttle. Set it to high. 5. Look at the tach Bend it a little at a time. Bend it in ether direction as shown in the picture that I circled. That's all there is to it your done. Like I said in the previous post these engines were not meant to run at low idle. Once you have set the top governor speed you are done. Make sure you have the throttle adjustment setting to high before you bend the linkage. Now go cut some grass LOL :thumbsup:
#18
L
lilychef
Awesome... Thanks so much! Sounds very straight forward! I will report back with the results.... Won't get to it for a while, though, as we are going out of town.
L
lilychef
I've been doing it so long that I do it by ear. But to be on the safe side please use a tach, 3100 is right. 3100 rpm's is your top governor speed. Ok here we go. 1. Worm up the engine to normal operating temperature then turn it off. 2. Take off the air cleaner. 3. Set your tach up start the engine. 4. You have a manual throttle. Set it to high. 5. Look at the tach Bend it a little at a time. Bend it in ether direction as shown in the picture that I circled. That's all there is to it your done. Like I said in the previous post these engines were not meant to run at low idle. Once you have set the top governor speed you are done. Make sure you have the throttle adjustment setting to high before you bend the linkage. Now go cut some grass LOL :thumbsup:
Awesome... Thanks so much! Sounds very straight forward! I will report back with the results.... Won't get to it for a while, though, as we are going out of town.
#19
L
lilychef
Ok - I'm back. Well, I got the idle down, but in a not-so-orthodox way, and in a way which I don't think is correct, even though the mower is running at the correct idle speed now. It was idling at around 3850, way too high, so I started bending the tang. It wouldn't really run without the air cleaner on, so I would start and stop the mower and bend a little in between. It wasn't really making a difference until I bent it so far that there was actual slack in the spring, and then some. Well, I got it down to around 3100, but not without bending the tang so far that the throttle lever now operates in reverse! Ha! And -- the throttle lever makes only about 200-300rpm difference when moved back and forth... So - my thinking is that the governor is still not in the correct static position. But I adjusted that thing several times exactly as instructed to make sure I got it right. Is it possible that I need to adjust the governor a little bit away from the static position? Because when I first adjusted it I went the other way to see if I had it adjusted it in the wrong direction, and it would barely idle... Or can something go wrong with the governor to cause this high idle speed? I'm starting to get frustrated now, even though It's probably something really minor. Thanks again so much for your help!!
L
lilychef
I've been doing it so long that I do it by ear. But to be on the safe side please use a tach, 3100 is right. 3100 rpm's is your top governor speed. Ok here we go. 1. Worm up the engine to normal operating temperature then turn it off. 2. Take off the air cleaner. 3. Set your tach up start the engine. 4. You have a manual throttle. Set it to high. 5. Look at the tach Bend it a little at a time. Bend it in ether direction as shown in the picture that I circled. That's all there is to it your done. Like I said in the previous post these engines were not meant to run at low idle. Once you have set the top governor speed you are done. Make sure you have the throttle adjustment setting to high before you bend the linkage. Now go cut some grass LOL :thumbsup:
Ok - I'm back. Well, I got the idle down, but in a not-so-orthodox way, and in a way which I don't think is correct, even though the mower is running at the correct idle speed now. It was idling at around 3850, way too high, so I started bending the tang. It wouldn't really run without the air cleaner on, so I would start and stop the mower and bend a little in between. It wasn't really making a difference until I bent it so far that there was actual slack in the spring, and then some. Well, I got it down to around 3100, but not without bending the tang so far that the throttle lever now operates in reverse! Ha! And -- the throttle lever makes only about 200-300rpm difference when moved back and forth... So - my thinking is that the governor is still not in the correct static position. But I adjusted that thing several times exactly as instructed to make sure I got it right. Is it possible that I need to adjust the governor a little bit away from the static position? Because when I first adjusted it I went the other way to see if I had it adjusted it in the wrong direction, and it would barely idle... Or can something go wrong with the governor to cause this high idle speed? I'm starting to get frustrated now, even though It's probably something really minor. Thanks again so much for your help!!
#20
M
MowerPro2
Wow!! Now you have me a little confused. Throttle is working in reverse ? Humm.....The only way I know that the throttle will work in the reverse position is if the throttle lever has jumped the throttle stop on the carb. See the attached photo. As for it not wanting to run with the air cleaner off puzzles me mine runs perfect with or without it. Check make sure the throttle hasn't jumped the stop on the carb, and let me know. Take another pic on the carb I would like to see it. Don't get frustrated that's when we start to make mistakes :thumbsup:
M
MowerPro2
Ok - I'm back. Well, I got the idle down, but in a not-so-orthodox way, and in a way which I don't think is correct, even though the mower is running at the correct idle speed now. It was idling at around 3850, way too high, so I started bending the tang. It wouldn't really run without the air cleaner on, so I would start and stop the mower and bend a little in between. It wasn't really making a difference until I bent it so far that there was actual slack in the spring, and then some. Well, I got it down to around 3100, but not without bending the tang so far that the throttle lever now operates in reverse! Ha! And -- the throttle lever makes only about 200-300rpm difference when moved back and forth... So - my thinking is that the governor is still not in the correct static position. But I adjusted that thing several times exactly as instructed to make sure I got it right. Is it possible that I need to adjust the governor a little bit away from the static position? Because when I first adjusted it I went the other way to see if I had it adjusted it in the wrong direction, and it would barely idle... Or can something go wrong with the governor to cause this high idle speed? I'm starting to get frustrated now, even though It's probably something really minor. Thanks again so much for your help!!
Wow!! Now you have me a little confused. Throttle is working in reverse ? Humm.....The only way I know that the throttle will work in the reverse position is if the throttle lever has jumped the throttle stop on the carb. See the attached photo. As for it not wanting to run with the air cleaner off puzzles me mine runs perfect with or without it. Check make sure the throttle hasn't jumped the stop on the carb, and let me know. Take another pic on the carb I would like to see it. Don't get frustrated that's when we start to make mistakes :thumbsup:
Attachments
#21
L
lilychef
Thanks for getting back so quickly! The throttle lever has definitely not jumped the stop... I will get a pic asap, but if you look at the lever where the governor spring is attached, try to visualize it being bent so far to the left that it goes around the other way, so far that it reverses the angle of the governor control lever so that fast means slow and vice-versa... But it took bending it that far to take enough tension off the spring and get the idle down! That's why I asked whether you think the governor is still not adjusted properly, or if there culd be something wrong with it... Or if I could adjust it a little ways away from the static position.... There's definitely no binding of the governer lever now....
L
lilychef
Wow!! Now you have me a little confused. Throttle is working in reverse ? Humm.....The only way I know that the throttle will work in the reverse position is if the throttle lever has jumped the throttle stop on the carb. See the attached photo. As for it not wanting to run with the air cleaner off puzzles me mine runs perfect with or without it. Check make sure the throttle hasn't jumped the stop on the carb, and let me know. Take another pic on the carb I would like to see it. Don't get frustrated that's when we start to make mistakes :thumbsup:
Thanks for getting back so quickly! The throttle lever has definitely not jumped the stop... I will get a pic asap, but if you look at the lever where the governor spring is attached, try to visualize it being bent so far to the left that it goes around the other way, so far that it reverses the angle of the governor control lever so that fast means slow and vice-versa... But it took bending it that far to take enough tension off the spring and get the idle down! That's why I asked whether you think the governor is still not adjusted properly, or if there culd be something wrong with it... Or if I could adjust it a little ways away from the static position.... There's definitely no binding of the governer lever now....
#22
L
lilychef
Ok - an update - so I just had a eureka moment.... I think the governor link got bent out of shape when I installed the new carbs and then was trying to get it to stop binding. I ordered a new one (like 6 bucks) and will reinstall it, readjust everything, and get back to you. Sometimes you just can't see the forest through the trees..... :confused2: :laughing:
L
lilychef
Wow!! Now you have me a little confused. Throttle is working in reverse ? Humm.....The only way I know that the throttle will work in the reverse position is if the throttle lever has jumped the throttle stop on the carb. See the attached photo. As for it not wanting to run with the air cleaner off puzzles me mine runs perfect with or without it. Check make sure the throttle hasn't jumped the stop on the carb, and let me know. Take another pic on the carb I would like to see it. Don't get frustrated that's when we start to make mistakes :thumbsup:
Ok - an update - so I just had a eureka moment.... I think the governor link got bent out of shape when I installed the new carbs and then was trying to get it to stop binding. I ordered a new one (like 6 bucks) and will reinstall it, readjust everything, and get back to you. Sometimes you just can't see the forest through the trees..... :confused2: :laughing:
#23
M
MowerPro2
Procedure for Briggs Engines with a mechanical governor. This may come in handy some day.
Adjusting the Governor | Briggs & Stratton
M
MowerPro2
Ok - an update - so I just had a eureka moment.... I think the governor link got bent out of shape when I installed the new carbs and then was trying to get it to stop binding. I ordered a new one (like 6 bucks) and will reinstall it, readjust everything, and get back to you. Sometimes you just can't see the forest through the trees..... :confused2: :laughing:
Procedure for Briggs Engines with a mechanical governor. This may come in handy some day.
Adjusting the Governor | Briggs & Stratton
#24
L
lilychef
Have been all over that from day one, but thanks!!!! I'll report back after I install the new link....
L
lilychef
Procedure for Briggs Engines with a mechanical governor. This may come in handy some day.
Adjusting the Governor | Briggs & Stratton
Have been all over that from day one, but thanks!!!! I'll report back after I install the new link....
#25
L
lilychef
Well, I'm back. And frustrated. I think I might have damaged the governor/slinger. Is this possible? When I installed the new governor link, It was VERY obvious that the old one was mis-shapen - too long, to be precise, and so was keeping the idle high when adjusted in the static position. Well, when I installed the new link, I readjusted the governor for good measure, and cranked her up to an awful racket and lots of sputtering. That's when I discovered that I wasn't careful and the throttle lever had jumped the stop before I adjusted the governor. Duh. I shut her down, put the throttle lever back over the stop, and readjusted the static position, and now it runs, at a good idle speed but it "sputters" for lack of a better word, and there is a faint noise going on. At first I described it as surging/hunting, but it's really a random sputter, almost like a misfire. It runs pretty smooth between sputters, tho. Is it possible to damage the governor from misadjustment? Could this be a coincidence and something else actually be going on? I had read that excessive idles speed could crack the coil.... The bottom line is, it runs -- I was able to mow the yard with it, in fact, it ran better with the drive wheels engaged than at idle, and it ran better as it got warm. Any final ideas before I just let it run itself into the ground? Thanks so much - I hope you're still out there! :confused2:
L
lilychef
Procedure for Briggs Engines with a mechanical governor. This may come in handy some day.
Adjusting the Governor | Briggs & Stratton
Well, I'm back. And frustrated. I think I might have damaged the governor/slinger. Is this possible? When I installed the new governor link, It was VERY obvious that the old one was mis-shapen - too long, to be precise, and so was keeping the idle high when adjusted in the static position. Well, when I installed the new link, I readjusted the governor for good measure, and cranked her up to an awful racket and lots of sputtering. That's when I discovered that I wasn't careful and the throttle lever had jumped the stop before I adjusted the governor. Duh. I shut her down, put the throttle lever back over the stop, and readjusted the static position, and now it runs, at a good idle speed but it "sputters" for lack of a better word, and there is a faint noise going on. At first I described it as surging/hunting, but it's really a random sputter, almost like a misfire. It runs pretty smooth between sputters, tho. Is it possible to damage the governor from misadjustment? Could this be a coincidence and something else actually be going on? I had read that excessive idles speed could crack the coil.... The bottom line is, it runs -- I was able to mow the yard with it, in fact, it ran better with the drive wheels engaged than at idle, and it ran better as it got warm. Any final ideas before I just let it run itself into the ground? Thanks so much - I hope you're still out there! :confused2: