Poulan Pro PP5020 won't start

Many, many, many years ago our logging crew would use the Poulan strictly in the cold winter months. We said a few nice things about Poulan because they cut like a Tasmanian devil. But that company had plumbed the exhaust underneath the fuel tank for the weather conditions on the Alaskan Islands and the cold Canadian forest. If the sun came out we lost all those saws because the fuel would boil. I imagine we detonated a few pistons etc when liquid fuel/oil boiled into the cylinder.
 
Probably too little too late for this thread but I used to have this saw and had a similar problem with keeping it running. I did a lot of reading about getting it tuned right. Had it running good with the L about 3 turns out and the H 2 to 2.5 turns out. I also ended up scoring the piston/chamber walls so it wouldn't hold compression.

This thread was helpful to me to read.

https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/Poulan PP 5020AV Carb Carburetor Adjustment

https://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/Poulan PP 5020AV Carb Carburetor Adjustment
chainsawrepair.createaforum.com chainsawrepair.createaforum.com
 
My saw had similar symtoms and the problem was a partly sheared crankshaft key. It would only pop when trying to start it. Sounds like is what yours was doing. It only took putting a new key. Good luck
 
You will need to rebuild it. Most likely it was a lean condition (I deal with this often.) You can scout around for the parts and usually find a piston and jug for a decent price. When putting a carburetor on it, stay away from the Chinese knock-offs. I have had many issues with many of them (even causing engine failure!) Zama may be more costly, but in the long run the investment is worth it. I have a Craftsman 18"46cc (same engine as yours) and it is 21 years old. My only issue was with fuel lines and replacement of the original carburetor when I left my gas mix in it by mistake.
 
ILENGINE said:
It has been my experience that a lean overheat situation normally scores the exhaust port area, but a straight gas run normally will damage the cylinder all the way around with some exception were the galling on the exhaust port pushes the piston into the intake side causing damage.
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I agree with the overheat. You mentioned it was a "big" log. If you had the saw close to the log for an extended period of time, the exhaust blows right back onto the saw and can over heat the piston and cylinder.
 
StarTech said:
That like the guy that brought a walk behind from Tramlaw, put fuel in it and started mowing his lawn before he knew it there was a hole in the side of the engine. Never put oil in it until after the hole was in it.

Manufactures don't allow for the brainless operators in their designs. They are counting the operators that actually have a working brain and a little common sense.
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Where a you or your shop. I have 4 saws the one I love is a little Poulan Micro 25 I use for trimming limes its so light no shops around don't want to look at it. I have not found a saw this light and easy to use
 
I had the same symptoms with my 2001 Craftsman which I think is a rebadged Poulan. Take the cover off and prime it. Look for any fuel line leaks. My fuel line cracked so gas was just leaking out all over but I did not see it since the cover was on. It would start but only when cold but once you shut it off it would not start until cold again. When I took the cover off there were pools of gas by the lines but I could not tell where it was coming from. I was only able to see it when I used the primer and the gas was squirting out. IDK how but gas made its way into the cylinder and the plug was soaked. I pulled the plug out and left it out for a couple of days to dry out the plug and cylinder then replaced the cracked line (3 bucks at NAPA.) Replaced the line, reinstalled the dried out plug and filled it with gas and it runs perfect again. I was pricing out new ones and asked my neighbor who is a small engine mechanic on what I should get and he advised me to keep the old one going as long as possible and the newer saws are not made as well. This prompted me to look at it one more time which is when I found the bad line. If you do end up replacing the fuel line, replace all of the lines. I initially just replaced the cracked one but a month after it was back online the other line started to leak . Luckily I had enough spare line from the first repair so it saved me another trip to the store. Good luck!

Edit: just saw the photo of the cylinder. RIP saw.
 
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An engine will tell you what's wrong most of the time. To run, and engine needs fuel, air and compression. If your compression has weakened you will blow blue smoke through the exhaust. If you weren't getting fuel your plug would dry. You haven't mentioned the air filter, so I'd take that out and try to fun it without... that just might be the problem. Put a new name brand plug in, make certain you have gapped it correctly. You can't see the strength of the spark with a tester.
 
I am a Poulan fan and have about ten + of the cheap saws - the Quality of the spark is important - clean flywheel and make sure the mag. is set right - (I use an alluminum can as a spacer gauge - check to make sure you have a good spark by pulling plug and spinning engine with plug attached and grounded. Strong blue white spark should be present. Often a new flywheel and mag will be needed and if you shop around you can get a kit cheap - about $15 - Also check that you crankshaft bearing does not have too much -or any play . -Good luck - don't throw it out but save it for parts! Usually these Poulans need the gas lines changed as well - if you cut a sliver off the end of the line then you can put the line in the hole - grab the remaining sliver with needlenose pliers and pull the gas line through - these gas lines are a common problem with most all saws - good luck to ya ! Rush
 
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