PB-210E With very weak to no spark, please help.

[gearnoggin]

Hello everyone. I have a 1980's Echo PB-210E that I traded for knowing it didn't run. I had read great things about them on the net and thought it was probably just a dirty carb. The machine is in great shape, even the stickers are all in tact. Well I get it home first thing I notice is the spark is very weak and sometimes it has none. I haven't tore apart the carb as it looks very clean on the outside and I figure I should solve the spark problem first. Just wondering if anyone can help me single out if its the exciter or the ignition that is the problem. And if there are reasonably price replacements for them. The cheapest new one I've found is on ebay for $68. That seems to close to the price of a new leaf blower to be spending on one that's over 20 years old. I really like the old thing and would love to get it going but I'm on a really tight budget and cant afford to spend that kind of dough. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[d_sharier]

How are you checking the spark?

 

[gearnoggin]

I take the plug out and reconnect the plug wire. Then I ground it on the head while pulling the starter rope.

 

[d_sharier]

I ask this question because we usually don't see intermittent spark problems in "cold" coils. Intermittent problems usually surface during use, when the machine is "hot", things "expand" and the coil stops working. If there is truly an intermittent problem when it is cold, my guess would be to start first with the grounding components, switch, wires, etc. It is usually a good idea to start here when checking a coil anyway. Remove whatever necessary to access coil, then remove all grounding wires from it, clean point of contact from the lamination stack on the coil to the cylinder of the engine, check integrity of high tension lead, I would remove the boot as well and check the connection between the spark plug terminal and the high tension lead, then re-assemble (still with grounding wires off) and test for spark. Some sort of spark tester is better than none. Some are less than $20. Avoid one that just flashes a light. Try to find one that show a spark jump a gap. Having a spark tester will help take some of the inconsistency out of the equation. I know it can be difficult to hold the unit, hold the wire and plug, and appropriately pull the engine over. One of the most important, and easiest things to do is to get a new plug (if you didn't already) A plug can also have intermittent failure issues. So try that and let me know what happens.

 

[motoman]

noggin, Since you have a budget problem you could try the "poor boy" spark tester previously mentioned in this forum. Cut off the electrode on a donor sparkplug so the gap is increased up to 1/4." Perhaps not precise, but tried it once on a failed 2 stroker weed whacker along side a brand new Sears weed whacker. The Sears unit had no problem jumping a really large gap while the failed unit could not. I had suspected the old coil as it showed contact marks where the flywheel had been kissing it.

We feel your pain at the replacement cost. I tried to save my old Ryobi (above), but only a couple new parts equaled the cost of a new unit.

 

[gearnoggin]

It was to cold to get out and work in the blower today. Next warm day we get I'm gonna try the methods you all recommended. I'll post the results I get.