Summation, all circuits require LOAD testing. Totally agree. As in a 10 amp circuit needs 10 amps for a full health check on said circuit.
Parasitic draw
- Thread starter Illini Pete
- Start date
StarTech
Lawn Royalty
Personally I prefer voltage drop tests; unless, designing a new circuit. Besides I don't have a milli-ohm meter which what you use test long runs of wire. This way I can check if circuit has usual voltage drop.
StarTech
Lawn Royalty
Of course the circuit has to be load somewhat. I use the intended load as I have to add additional loads to get to the fuse rating which you should be using re-settable fuse during those max amp tests.
Yes ATC fuses are cheap but they can run up a non-chargeable expensive or at least it does in my shop. And yes I am a cheapo when it comes to unnecessary expenses. It is the only way my shop can survive without raising my rates.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hi StarTech,
It never fails... Late in the evening and running empty on 20A fuses.... and the parts stores are closed. LOL (Parts stores think that fuses are gold anyway) $12.99+ tax at AutoZone for a 10 pack (if they have them).
I quit buying bulk box sets of fuses online because many of them turned out to be defective due to poor quality.
Over the years I've gathered a small collection/ assortment of plug-in "metal body" automotive power window and power seat circuit breakers. (Thermal, self-resetting) I would look for them whenever I would go to a salvage yard. Those things have saved me a lot of blown fuse headaches. I even have a couple from back in the "glass fuse" days. For the ones that are made with threaded studs, I attach short leads with male spade terminals to them so I can plug them in instead of a regular fuse.
For some wiring short problems, I use an old school short circuit finder with a basic directional compass. (From back in my early automotive technician days)
A lot of folks with money just laying around just go out and buy a "power probe" with a resettable circuit breaker built in. I learned years ago to work with what I have and quit buying every overpriced tool that hit the market. I do have a basic power probe but seldom use it except for large farm tractor work, the 20ft lead is nice for large equipment, but a pain when working on a rider or zero turn.
It never fails... Late in the evening and running empty on 20A fuses.... and the parts stores are closed. LOL (Parts stores think that fuses are gold anyway) $12.99+ tax at AutoZone for a 10 pack (if they have them).
I quit buying bulk box sets of fuses online because many of them turned out to be defective due to poor quality.
Over the years I've gathered a small collection/ assortment of plug-in "metal body" automotive power window and power seat circuit breakers. (Thermal, self-resetting) I would look for them whenever I would go to a salvage yard. Those things have saved me a lot of blown fuse headaches. I even have a couple from back in the "glass fuse" days. For the ones that are made with threaded studs, I attach short leads with male spade terminals to them so I can plug them in instead of a regular fuse.
For some wiring short problems, I use an old school short circuit finder with a basic directional compass. (From back in my early automotive technician days)
A lot of folks with money just laying around just go out and buy a "power probe" with a resettable circuit breaker built in. I learned years ago to work with what I have and quit buying every overpriced tool that hit the market. I do have a basic power probe but seldom use it except for large farm tractor work, the 20ft lead is nice for large equipment, but a pain when working on a rider or zero turn.