I Briggs single cylinder 19hp 31N807 0440. On a Troybilt zero turn with 42" deck.
I changed the cam, put everything back together. And it ran fine & dandy. My compressor must've been low on air when I tightened the PTO up, because after about 30 minutes of mowing, everything started vibrating. Found that & tightened & down with the bigger air gun.
Mowed for another hour or so, then all of a sudden, it lost all power. It didn't smoke. But would run at like a really low idle. Then stopped. Now it won't crank at all.
It's got spark to the plug. I thought it might be the fuel solenoid, so I snipped the nipple off of it.
The compression check only showed about 48lbs. (I'm not sure how much compression it's supposed to have)
Also, I noticed that after only about 1.5hrs the spark plug was black & wet. Although the oil is brand new. Oil is showing a little low on the dipstick from where it was when I first refilled the oil.
Oh yeah, and I took the flywheel off, and cleaned it, blew the dust & dirt out of the alternator. Then inspected the key/keeper.
The fuel pump is pumping. It's getting spark.
There's no stalling when it it turns over at all.
Compression is to low. Did it have oil pump and you forgot to line it back up with the cam. Thinking if that was case it wouldn't have ran that long. But low compression. Leak down test it and listen to the air and see where it is coming from. Then go from there.
Compression is to low. Did it have oil pump and you forgot to line it back up with the cam. Thinking if that was case it wouldn't have ran that long. But low compression. Leak down test it and listen to the air and see where it is coming from. Then go from there.
No oil pump. I checked the valves just a few minutes ago, and the intake push rod was bent. So, I replace it. It cranked and ran for about 5 seconds. Then popped and died.
Oh yeah, they're still on. Ya gotta be careful with those little boogers.
Rechecked the valves, and they're still in adjustment. Now, it turns over about 5 rounds and has like a kick back sort of thing going on, with a pop. Since the push rod was broken, I couldn't compare the one I replaced it with. I could tell there was no major length differences. It was the aluminum intake push rod. The steel one (exhaust/Top) isn't bent.
Get another head gasket and pull the head.
Look for damage to the top of the piston from it hitting the valves.
lap the head and the block flat, they tend to go hollow on the thin wall between the cylinder & the pushrod tube,
Rotate the engine and check the valve timing.
Those engines will run 1 tooth out either way, for a while.
Pushrods do not bend for no reason.
They bend because the valve does not move.
If it was sitting on the edge of the valve follower ( we have all done it ) then the valve spring will coil bind and that will bend the pushrod.
Two things happened, almost at the same time. Problem solved. (I hope)
The problem was the bent/almost broken push rod. After replacing that, I cranked it, and in about 5 to 10 seconds, the flywheel key broke. Since I had already checked the flywheel key before I found the bent pushrod, I didn't bother checking it until checking almost everything else first.
After fixing those two things, I let it idle for about 20 minutes. reving it up and down periodically, everything seems to be running great.
