Other surging culprits?

Rumrunner

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Concerning a 10323 Duraforce, entirely hypothetical of course:cool:, if one were to accidentally hit a stick large enough to distort the shaft-to-flywheel key, could this cause a surging issue? Perhaps being slightly out of time?

It seems Mrs Rumrunner May have induced this condition while mowing today. Fine one minute then, wham! Lots of surging. I'm feeling mighty I'll.
 

Rivets

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Yes, and more than likely sheared the flywheel key. Takes more time than anything to fix, just replace key.
 

Rumrunner

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Why did you have to be honest with me? I guess it's better like that. Tell me, is there any way I can tell if that's the culprit?

Thanks Rivets, much obliged.
 

Rivets

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Do a you-tube search on re Laing flywheel key. It's not that hard, you can do it.
 

Two-Stroke

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If the surging coincided with hitting [whatever] --- meaning there was no surging before the hit -- then it's probably the flywheel key.

However, it is early in the season so if you have gas in the tank leftover from last year, you may want to try fresh gas.
 

Rumrunner

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Well, I was actually hoping for a broken key, but I hardly get what I wish. I pulled the flywheel and was fully expecting it to be broken because I doubt there was more than 100" Lbs breakaway torque on the nut. Pulling the flywheel from the shaft was the hardest part and it broke my heart to see the key 100% unharmed. I even magnified it without the slightest distortion or crack present, maybe a bit of rust at the bottom but negligible. So, here's the history and what I've looked for and considered:

I bought this in 1999 (new) at Lowe's, back when they used to sell them and the parts. I'm expecting it to be running fine for another 10 years. I remember lawn-boys being like that. Before I left home in 1984, I was still using a 1963 brick head.

one month ago I installed a new carburetor (by kit) and it ran like new again. We've mowed with it 3 times. I drained and swabbed out the gas tank, got a new in-line shut-off valve at the time of carb replacement. I searched high and low and found Lawn-Boy oil at O'Reilly's in town, which really surprised me. I figured that Lawn-boy claims their oil is best and it has a stabilizer in it, so I'd keep using it with fresh gas. Be advised, it was running great until 2 or 3 days ago.

I bought a new Coil about 3 weeks ago since the old one was acting up. When I removed the flywheel today, I pulled the coil off and found all kinds of stuck on muck on the contacts face, from I don't know what, but cleaned it up really shiny and clean today.

I looked at the spark plug and checked it was clean. I replaced it at the time of the carb. I've been using one of the really hot E-3 "Diamond Fire," I think they're called. At the parts store, they call these "one-shot-one-kills," because they start on the first pull.

I unplugged the fuel line and opened the valve and drained out what was in the tank. About half the tank drained through the valve and line within, probably 30 seconds. Looks free to me.

I removed the jet that's in the side of the carb body, I guess this is the "low pressure" or "Inlet" jet? Anyway, just to see and found it in brand new and squeaky clean condition.

Of course I checked the air filter, which is new also.


Now, the owner's manual says to use "Regular" unleaded gasoline. That was in 1999. It seems I read something not long ago (within the last week, and it may have been on this forum somewhere) that claimed so-called "regular" isn't so good these days and to use better mojo gas instead. I really can't remember what it was for, but it was for some type of lawn tool. What do you all think? What about the plug I'm using? Sure, it's new, but can there be one "Too hot?"

Look folks, I know this is quite a lot of info (TMI) but I want to let you in on everything so we have the best shot at figuring it.

And as always, I appreciate your help more than you'll realize.
 

Two-Stroke

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About the gas/oil -- if you're using fresh gas, I think you've eliminated that as a culprit. I wouldn't worry about regular vs premium.

I've never had a Duraforce but there is an issue with that engine tending to run too lean. Look in the Lawn-Boy forum for a thread that deals with that. I think there's a fix involving replacing the jet (carb) -- the thread even gave a specific part number to use.

If you can't find that thread, ask me and I will find it.
 

turfboy1997

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About the gas/oil -- if you're using fresh gas, I think you've eliminated that as a culprit. I wouldn't worry about regular vs premium.

I've never had a Duraforce but there is an issue with that engine tending to run too lean. Look in the Lawn-Boy forum for a thread that deals with that. I think there's a fix involving replacing the jet (carb) -- the thread even gave a specific part number to use.

If you can't find that thread, ask me and I will find it.

Two stroke the part number is Briggs and Stratton Part #801308 for the duraforce idle circuit. it cleared up that 10424 that i was working on. I just drilled both a 10547 the other day and it worked too. the thread is 10424 idle circuit replacement and it has the size bits i used.
 

Rumrunner

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Let me get this right, the "IDLE CIRCUIT" is the external jet on the side of the carb, the one that was once under the sticker when new? I need to make sure I'm looking at the right part. With a name like "idle circuit," it makes one think of electrical components, even though "circuit can apply to anything closed.

Happy Saturday.
 
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