When does it die? After you run it for 10 min? What sound does it make? does it sound bogged down or sound the same as if u killed the engine grounding the ignition.I know I'm a newbie here but I tried to do all the basic stuff before posting here, was looking for some new ideas. It isn't the ignition, it isn't the valve clearances, the engine runs perfectly smooth and then stalls. Let it sit a minute and it cranks up fine. I cleaned out the fuel tank, replaced fuel lines and filter already, replaced float needle valve and seat. I appreciate any other tips that might be causing this.
Basic Briggs magneto sounds like. Pull the small kill wire. Should drain the tank dry if it's good. That coil needs to be LOAD TESTED to rule it out. As in a PET-4000. Look it up on youtube. Not some Christmas light inline waste of time ignition wire checker. All electrical circuits require load testing. As in full amp draw for that circuit.it is a basic old 8HP pull start engine. I don't think it has a valve cover to take off and measure, I think I'd have to take the head off to get to the valves. There don't appear to be any points, just a coil next to the flywheel that has two wires, one is the spark plug wire, one is the wire you ground to kill the engine.
Yes, there is a breather cover with two screws vertically that hold it on. Under that are your valve springs and keepers. That is where you check the gap. Use a new gasket when done and DON'T OVER TORQUE the screws when you reinstall the breather. Gentle snug is all you need.checking the valve clearances, is there a way to do that on this type of engine without pulling the head off?
If you have the top off, snap a pic of the flywheel/coil area. The last set of numbers on the stamped model numbers is the date code. If it starts with the numbers 83/84 or less, then it has points, as that looks like the original coil. You may still get a flash on your ignition tester, as you would on a spark plug.Sorry if I misspoke, didn't mean to imply I'd checked everything or it would be fixed, lol. I've only checked the basic things that I knew to do and am trying to figure out what else to check. I've flushed and cleaned out the fuel tank again. Thank you for the tip on the valves, I'll take that cover off and see what the valves look like. I'll work on it this weekend and report back what I find.
Right tool for the job. They are $70.00 now. Better to see the full capabillity of the coil compared to a light which doesn't show the condition of the coil. Brown spark or nice blue purple spark. You can't tell much using the Christmas lights you guys use. Most people are fooled when the dome light works but the car won't start. Average guy doesn't need to be working on a lawn mower. Usually create more problems for themself.Slomo, why do you keep recommending that a DIY guy spend $40.00 on a spark tester that they will use once maybe twice. I’ve been at this for a lot of years and have yet to see where that tool has a location in my tool box. Inline tester is much cheaper and easier to understand for the average guy.
I would wait until after pulling the head, before ordering parts.Thanks, I'm going to get a head gasket and then I'll take it off and take some pictures
Snap On or Harbor Freight take your pick. I like to see what the coil can and can't do.Those (Christmas Tree Lights) have worked fine for me for the last 40 years and only. $12.00. Todays coils are not like those used will point/condenser ignition systems. If you are doing this as a business, then “maybe” you can justify purchasing an expensive tester, but for the DIY guy really doesn’t pay. Truthfully I can’t remember the last time I ran into a coil which was producing a “weak“ spark. If you really think you have a weak spark run this test. Gap a new, good plug to .150” and install in the cylinder. Install an inline tester and check for spark. Spark at .030” and no spark at .150” means weak coil. Cost to you, less than $15.00. I’d rather purchase a light bulb fluid tester or wire stretcher.
The older engines had a metal/asbestos clad gasket, which I have been know to reuse. I would wait until you know the condition of your engine before buying anything.Oh, I just figured it was a given if I take the head off I need to replace the gasket
It will also flake off and get between the piston and bore.Loose carbon would go out the exhaust port.
Hi guys in regards to your problem. I kind ofHere is a picture of my engine, it is a basic old 8HP pull start engine. I don't think it has a valve cover to take off and measure, I think I'd have to take the head off to get to the valves. There don't appear to be any points, just a coil next to the flywheel that has two wires, one is the spark plug wire, one is the wire you ground to kill the engine.
Fish, I don't mind checking the valve clearances, is there a way to do that on this type of engine without pulling the head off? It doesn't seem to be a gradual problem as it's heating up, it funs fine and then all of a sudden dies.
Upupandaway, it dies after 5-10 minutes and then dies every 1-2 minutes after that when you re-start it. It runs completely smooth until it dies and when it dies it mostly sounds like you turned the key off. Every now and then it will start to die and then recover and run a couple more minutes before dying. I have put an ignition light on it and watched it when it dies and the light shows good ignition as it's stalling.
I'll get some starter fluid and try spraying that in when it stalls and see if it fires.
You will get better responses if you start your own thread. the original posted has ghosted us.Hi guys in regards to your problem. I kind of
have the same issue. Only 8hp briggs&stratton horizontal shaft. It ran with
no problem until it ran out of gas. Then when I pulled started it would run for five seconds and shut off. I was using starter fluid. Clean carb. Put it back together and fired it up. Same thing but only now carb is leaking gas out of the gasket. Order parts
Float spring, float,gasket needle valve. Replaced them. Fixed leak on carb. Still
Only run for five seconds. Just verily runs on full choke then dies. Then from experience to start all over from the start on carb 1.5 turns on needle valve. Still wouldn’t run. Pulled head to check valves to make sure sure they close. Cleaned them and sanded them lightly and reinstalled the head. Still same thing. I did the same as you did. I had full choke on it fired kind of. I took the plug out and checked it. It was not wet. Watch a video and found on it that not all briggs &stratton
Start at 1.5 turns some require high number of turns. I had to set my at 2.5 turns for it to run normally. So I believe you might have to set yours higher number of turns instead of 1.5 turns. I would suggest to turn yours in and count to it bottoms out. Then adjust out and add 1/2 turn. If it starts and runs adjust to fine the sweet spot. Mine drove me crazy. I grew up with these Briggs and Stratton 9hp engines. This was a barn burner on my issue.