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Oil in Spark Plug Cylinder

#1

R

rdavis0627

Just picked up a used Craftsman t1000 2007 15.5 hp Briggs and Stratton it sounded like it had a miss so I pulled the plug lots of oil in the cylinder but seems to have good compression. looking for ideas of where to start in figuring out where and why the oil is in the cylinder like that. Oh the plug I pulled out of it was a rv15yc4 which I know is not the correct plug? Thanks forward


#2

Hammermechanicman

Hammermechanicman

Probably an oil burner and someone put a hotter plug in to try and stop oil fouling the plug.


#3

StarTech

StarTech

More likely if the engine is an Intek OHV single cylinder engine that the head gasket is blown. One hint to this is oil in the cleaner side of the intake.


#4

R

rdavis0627

StarTech said:
More likely if the engine is an Intek OHV single cylinder engine that the head gasket is blown. One hint to this is oil in the cleaner side of the intake.
Click to expand...
Thanks, just picked up a valve cover gasket today so was going to check valve lash adjustment so I'll take a look, is a head gasket a big job on this engine?


#5

F

Forest#2

StarTech said:
More likely if the engine is an Intek OHV single cylinder engine that the head gasket is blown. One hint to this is oil in the cleaner side of the intake.

You asked:
is a head gasket a big job on this engine?

Normally NO.
Lots of you tube videos about such.

You need to post the model, type and code?
from the valve cover if it's a Over Head Valve (OHV) type engine


#6

R

rdavis0627

Forest#2 said:
StarTech said:
More likely if the engine is an Intek OHV single cylinder engine that the head gasket is blown. One hint to this is oil in the cleaner side of the intake.

You asked:
is a head gasket a big job on this engine?

Normally NO.
Lots of you tube videos about such.

You need to post the model, type and code?
from the valve cover if it's a Over Head Valve (OHV) type engine
Click to expand...
Hi there, Forest#2, StarTech, here is the model number, type and code, 31A607, 0741 E1, 061009ZE, I did replace the head gasket it was super shot out, haven't started yet getting ready to go back at it again and finish putting it back together ran out of time yesterday.
I have more questions is the model number anywhere else on the motor? when I search for filters, it keeps showing an oil filter and I don't see a dang oil filter would like to know if this is the original engine on this darn tractor. I just want to make sure someone didn't put a rocker cover on this from another engine. There is rust on the code number, but I believe I got it right. From the rocker I figure it was made in 10/09/2006, can I find anything else on it want to make sure I am putting the right plug, oil, or other parts in it as well as like valve clearance adjustment, magneto, etc.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

1702835778428.png
RC12YC spark plug.


#8

R

rdavis0627

StarTech said:
View attachment 67471
RC12YC spark plug.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much StarTech, it's good to have some conformation, those are the values I used, I went with 4 and 6 on the valves, I got it back together run's a whole lot better has a slight pop to it but overall, I think I did a fairly good job on my first time tinkering this far on a tractor. I probably should attach a short video and some photos and let you hear it and see what you think. I'm sure whoever threw this tractor together had to monkey with a lot to get it to start so someone like me would buy it. lol
How long before I should check the valves after doing a repair like this to verify the values?


#9

F

Forest#2

Do not be too concerned about it showing a oil filter.
That same model number engine used two different sumps, one with a oil filter and one without. The oil filter type is mostly for show to make you really got something better.
Usually just use straight 30w oil. Be extra careful when tightening the taper threaded oil drain plug, you can easily crack the aluminum sump at the thread boss if you strong wrist it. The sump is little wimpy weak in that area.
Best to use about 3 layers of teflon tape on the 3/8 pipe plug and just get it snug. I sometimes install a 6 inch length of 3/8 pipe nipple and use a cap on the end of the nipple so as the oil will drain outside of the frame into a catch pan.
The valve cover is the only good info for your engine. Most likely has the correct info and is the right cover.
You got lucky that the camshaft compression release was good.


#10

R

rdavis0627

Forest#2 said:
Do not be too concerned about it showing a oil filter.
That same model number engine used two different sumps, one with a oil filter and one without. The oil filter type is mostly for show to make you really got something better.
Usually just use straight 30w oil. Be extra careful when tightening the taper threaded oil drain plug, you can easily crack the aluminum sump at the thread boss if you strong wrist it. The sump is little wimpy weak in that area.
Best to use about 3 layers of teflon tape on the 3/8 pipe plug and just get it snug. I sometimes install a 6 inch length of 3/8 pipe nipple and use a cap on the end of the nipple so as the oil will drain outside of the frame into a catch pan.
The valve cover is the only good info for your engine. Most likely has the correct info and is the right cover.
You got lucky that the camshaft compression release was good.
Click to expand...
Thanks again, have good rest of your day


#11

R

rdavis0627

Forest#2 said:
Do not be too concerned about it showing a oil filter.
That same model number engine used two different sumps, one with a oil filter and one without. The oil filter type is mostly for show to make you really got something better.
Usually just use straight 30w oil. Be extra careful when tightening the taper threaded oil drain plug, you can easily crack the aluminum sump at the thread boss if you strong wrist it. The sump is little wimpy weak in that area.
Best to use about 3 layers of teflon tape on the 3/8 pipe plug and just get it snug. I sometimes install a 6 inch length of 3/8 pipe nipple and use a cap on the end of the nipple so as the oil will drain outside of the frame into a catch pan.
The valve cover is the only good info for your engine. Most likely has the correct info and is the right cover.
You got lucky that the camshaft compression release was good.
Click to expand...
Hey StarTech, I put 5w 30 synthetic oil in it off something I found about a recommendation from B & S, how bad is what I've done?


#12

StarTech

StarTech

That is fine; although, I have upgrade my customers to 15W50 synthetic but I am in the South where Summer temps are getting a lot hotter. Heavier oils just makes hardier to start in cold weather.

My neighbor across the road has a Toyota PU that is running 0W-20 synthetic oil.


#13

R

rdavis0627

StarTech said:
That is fine; although, I have upgrade my customers to 15W50 synthetic but I am in the South where Summer temps are getting a lot hotter. Heavier oils just makes hardier to start in cold weather.

My neighbor across the road has a Toyota PU that is running 0W-20 synthetic oil.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the update I live in Delaware so it can vary quite a bit from cold to really hot, and I'm just nuts enough to get out there and either cut grass or mulch leaves depending on the season lol


#14

R

rdavis0627

rdavis0627 said:
Hey StarTech, I put 5w 30 synthetic oil in it off something I found about a recommendation from B & S, how bad is what I've done?
Click to expand...
Hi I'm re-replying to this thread as the mower lasted a couple of cuts then I noticed some smoking toward the end it went through a lot of oil. I pulled the plug and yup oily plug again. Is there something I could of missed it sounded and ran really good for those couple of times after I replaced the head gasket.
Getting ready to pull the head again is there anything I can check or should check?


#15

7394

7394

Do a "leak down" test to determine if the leak is from the rings or the valves /seals up the guides


#16

StarTech

StarTech

rdavis0627 said:
Hi I'm re-replying to this thread as the mower lasted a couple of cuts then I noticed some smoking toward the end it went through a lot of oil. I pulled the plug and yup oily plug again. Is there something I could of missed it sounded and ran really good for those couple of times after I replaced the head gasket.
Getting ready to pull the head again is there anything I can check or should check?
Click to expand...
When you did the head gasket did you check the cylinder head gasket surface for flatness? I have seen a few to be warped.

Also did you torque to 250 in/lbs using the three step torque procedure and followed the torquing sequence in the service manual?


#17

R

rdavis0627

StarTech said:
When you did the head gasket did you check the cylinder head gasket surface for flatness? I have seen a few to be warped.

Also did you torque to 250 in/lbs using the three step torque procedure and followed the torquing sequence in the service manual?
Click to expand...
Hi, Good morning, I did not check it for flatness going to look up some you tubes to see how that should be done, I believe I torqued them to 250in/lbs which I believe is about 18ft/lbs. Not sure about the 3 step torque though so I'll attempt to find that information as well, I'm not sure I had the service manual but maybe I do somewhere on this computer.
I will say I did take the head off and sure enough the gasket was shot, I had purchased off amazon and the one I got was not OEM so the new one I ordered I purchased right from B&S.


#18

F

Forest#2

If the next one leaks take notice of the area of leakage.
Sometimes you can flat sand a head on a piece of glass and see the area of warpage and sand it flat again but if it's the block you might have to try two gaskets and not the weak China Amazon types.


#19

R

rdavis0627

7394 said:
Do a "leak down" test to determine if the leak is from the rings or the valves /seals up the guides
Click to expand...
Hi, I saw that on you tube I don't have that tool. Did not think about pricing one as yet.
Forest#2 said:
If the next one leaks take notice of the area of leakage.
Sometimes you can flat sand a head on a piece of glass and see the area of warpage and sand it flat again but if it's the block you might have to try two gaskets and not the weak China Amazon types.
Click to expand...
Thank you


#20

F

Forest#2

I use a leak down tester quite often. I can test new to me non running engines on a test bench before even trying to fix them for a run test. Lets me know if they are worth the effort to get running. I've found bad valves, bad rings, bad head gaskets on non-running engines.
I have a OTC.
HF sells one.


#21

7394

7394

Do a "leak down" test to determine if the leak is from the rings or the valves up the guides
rdavis0627 said:
I don't have that tool.
Click to expand...
Local Auto Parts store has them, & most do tool loaner program. Just have to leave a refundable deposit.


#22

R

rdavis0627

7394 said:
Do a "leak down" test to determine if the leak is from the rings or the valves up the guides

Local Auto Parts store has them, & most do tool loaner program. Just have to leave a refundable deposit.
Click to expand...
Thanks so much never thought of that.


#23

R

rdavis0627

StarTech said:
When you did the head gasket did you check the cylinder head gasket surface for flatness? I have seen a few to be warped.

Also did you torque to 250 in/lbs using the three step torque procedure and followed the torquing sequence in the service manual?
Click to expand...
ok, so I did some internet hopping yesterday, What is a home remedy way of checking for flatness? other than just setting on a flat surface and checking for wobble, I couldn't find anything except sanding the head down?


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