oil filter micron rating
- Thread starter Hornetman46
- Start date
Old Gweilo
Member
Paper oil filters are "nominally" rated, that is to say, not by a standardized method. Ignore the ratings, they all work. The larger filter will probably reduce the chances of your filter going to "bypass" if the filter starts getting clogged or during cold starts. Its all good.
Mattmotors
Active Member
I use both Wix and OEM .Both are good. Regular maintenance. Which one is cheaper? There is your answer. Loose sleep on how you are going to build your next shed. Good luck.
nortonbyk
Forum Newbie
Look. We all have common sense and our owner's manuals. I usually don't have much to add to the wisdom on this forum, but as a long time tractor, mower, ATV, UTV, boat, and motorcycle enthusiast, I can tell what has worked for me. I use my mowers a lot, albeit some are diesels. I also have a JD X390 with the Kawasaki twin. I mow 6 acres with that JD all season, and when done for the season, I go down to the JD dealership, buy the filter and oil, and change them out. I drive them to a nice shed here at the farm to overwinter with trickle chargers and sleep well until the grass grows again. I love that ecogard.com site that Auto Doc posted on filters and micron size. No other explanations necessary.
yes, oil freshness is most important. since you use less than 2 quarts per change i believe, change depending on usage. Small single lawns, once a season at end. Pro shop where it is running 6 hours a day, 5 days a week, then monthly at worst, preferable 2-3 weeks usage. oil and change.
sgkent
Lawn Addict
not sure comparing oil filters in a throw away "post-bankruptcy-Wall Steet-take-over-engine", and a Honda engine are an equal comparison. For example, a Briggs and Stratton post bankruptcy engine is rated at C life expectancy (125 hours) vs a Honda at A life expectancy (1200 - 2000 hours). A 1950's or 1960's Briggs engine might have lasted 2500 hours. All the EPA changes to reduce emissions to the point of diminishing returns were likely nothing more than a smoke screen to make it harder for older successful long life carbs etc., to survive compared to cheaper throw away carbs used on later models. Arguing about micron ratings on oil filters doesn't change the cheapness of how engines are made today. I am old enough to remember when people were installing toilet paper filters in their car engines (Frantz). The National Academy of Sciences did a study released early last year that ethanol in fuels pollutes more than non-ethanol fuels. Adding ethanol to gasoline was always about buying the farming industry vote, shuttling money to Wall Street, and degrading older equipment to make people replace it. Discussing micron size in filters on cheaper engines today is like arguing about deck chairs on the Titanic.
In fact as an afterthought, GM and Toyota can't keep their engines going on their more powerful pickup trucks anymore, regardless what micron filter they use. I've heard Ford is having transmission failures from wear in the valve body on the Ford made Allison branded transmissions regardless what filters they choose. Same principals apply. The difference in oil filters won't save one from engineering created failures.
I used to drive my old 1971 VW bus with a 1600 cc engine that only had a screen for an oil filter 60,000 - 70,000 miles between rebuilds. It never was a bearing that had trouble - usually a loose head, or cracked head, or oil seal failing etc.. Cylinders and pistons looked great unless the timing was off. My 1977 vw bus with a really good oil filter, even the best available, is more prone to bearing problems than the 1971 that only had a screen for a filter to catch the dog and cat hairs. Everyone who has owned a VW knows what I am speaking of. Not saying don't use oil filters. Am saying don't overthink it.
In fact as an afterthought, GM and Toyota can't keep their engines going on their more powerful pickup trucks anymore, regardless what micron filter they use. I've heard Ford is having transmission failures from wear in the valve body on the Ford made Allison branded transmissions regardless what filters they choose. Same principals apply. The difference in oil filters won't save one from engineering created failures.
I used to drive my old 1971 VW bus with a 1600 cc engine that only had a screen for an oil filter 60,000 - 70,000 miles between rebuilds. It never was a bearing that had trouble - usually a loose head, or cracked head, or oil seal failing etc.. Cylinders and pistons looked great unless the timing was off. My 1977 vw bus with a really good oil filter, even the best available, is more prone to bearing problems than the 1971 that only had a screen for a filter to catch the dog and cat hairs. Everyone who has owned a VW knows what I am speaking of. Not saying don't use oil filters. Am saying don't overthink it.
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Skippydiesel
Well-Known Member
Biggest problem with oil filters is the advent of the "spin on" .
The purchaser can't see the filter. Must rely on the marketing jingo to make any sort of quality assessment.
This leads to massive uncertainty in the purchaser - is there a filter in there at all???
The purchaser can't see the filter. Must rely on the marketing jingo to make any sort of quality assessment.
This leads to massive uncertainty in the purchaser - is there a filter in there at all???
Going from 21 to 28 microns would going UP in a coarser filtering medium. You had it backwards.
From the internet:
"For engine oil filtration, particles larger than 20 microns are considered the most damaging, while particles smaller than 5 microns are less likely to cause significant wear. Generally, maintaining a filtration system that captures particles in the range of 5 to 20 microns is recommended for optimal engine protection.
Any reduction in flow could be accommodated by the larger filter dimensions if there is a corresponding increase in filter surface area. Bu it's doubtful that going from 28 to 21 microns would reduce flow much. A difference in a psi or 2 shouldn;t make much difference.
I put 500K miles on a Volvo 245 without any engine repair (didn't even need to adjust the valve clearances), mostly using Walmart oil and filters. It was stil running well when it passed on to another owner. I attribute the longetivy to consistent oil/filter chnges.
Skippydiesel
Well-Known Member
Ibrac,
In Australia, I have never seen a micron specification for an oil filter.
I just use known or OM brands and hope for the best.
FACT! Reducing micron filtration will reduce flow, for a given filter area.
Should you selcet a smaller micron filter, I advise making sure you also increase the filter area.
Why? Because a smaller/finer filter will block quicker, than the larger, so you will either have to change the filter more often or select a filter with a larger surface area.
Like you I practise frequent oil changes, half the vehicle service recommendation eg 15,000 km recommended interval - I do at 7500 km.
Unlike you, I still do the filter changes at the recommended interval.
Why? because by changing the oil, I have removed the source of contamination. The filter that the manufacturer recommends will go to double the service interval, now has to "catch" way less material. Combine this with the understanding that media filters, actually get more efficient at catching contaminants as they block/catch material, so don't change the filter at 1/2 the service interval.
This carries over to small engines eg mowers. If your not doing the hours, change the oil every year and the filter every second.
In Australia, I have never seen a micron specification for an oil filter.
I just use known or OM brands and hope for the best.
FACT! Reducing micron filtration will reduce flow, for a given filter area.
Should you selcet a smaller micron filter, I advise making sure you also increase the filter area.
Why? Because a smaller/finer filter will block quicker, than the larger, so you will either have to change the filter more often or select a filter with a larger surface area.
Like you I practise frequent oil changes, half the vehicle service recommendation eg 15,000 km recommended interval - I do at 7500 km.
Unlike you, I still do the filter changes at the recommended interval.
Why? because by changing the oil, I have removed the source of contamination. The filter that the manufacturer recommends will go to double the service interval, now has to "catch" way less material. Combine this with the understanding that media filters, actually get more efficient at catching contaminants as they block/catch material, so don't change the filter at 1/2 the service interval.
This carries over to small engines eg mowers. If your not doing the hours, change the oil every year and the filter every second.