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My new Fastrak SD has the Kawasaki FX691 motor on it and its time to do my 1st oil change. Was wondering if y'all know a Fram or Wix I can pick up that will match up. What do y'all use? My dealer is a bit of a drive away so If I can get one at the WalMarx or one of the local auto parts it'll just make life a little simpler. Also the Kawasaki filters are a bit pricey. Should I take this to the small engine forum? (still learning the forum)

BCuz said:

My new Fastrak SD has the Kawasaki FX691 motor on it and its time to do my 1st oil change. Was wondering if y'all know a Fram or Wix I can pick up that will match up. What do y'all use? My dealer is a bit of a drive away so If I can get one at the WalMarx or one of the local auto parts it'll just make life a little simpler. Also the Kawasaki filters are a bit pricey. Should I take this to the small engine forum? (still learning the forum)

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Your filter number should be on the filter or in your owners guide, you can visit the fram or wix websites and cross-reference the number to find their model to fit .

BCuz,

Here is what I'm using. You can buy them cheaper in quantity. And even at your local auto parts store if they have them in stock.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Oil-Filte...-49065-2077-/361240806366?hash=item541ba143de

There you go.

Not to scare you BUT I'd be wary of Evil-Bay merchandise, some of the stuff is factory rejects with false logo's on them, buyer beware, I'd trust an auto-parts store first, and it might be local to you !

These are good filters and work fine on my Kawasaki. I run it like I stole it and won't suggest a bad part to anyone.

FWIW: If you are under warranty, you may wanna use the correct Kaw filter. My Dealers head tech warned me of this.

I co-owned Hughes Auto Parts, Inc. for over 40 years. We were distributors that services 5 states and parts of others. In the U.S. it is illegal for any company to require a customer to use a particular brand of product over another as long as your chosen brand meets or exceeds the Society of Automotive Engineers products. Harley-Davidson, Ford, GM, Chrysler, Kubota and the names are too numerous to list have lost law suits leveled against them for demanding a customer pay exorbitant prices for their branded filters, lubricants, etc.

Remember, Kawasaki, Kubota, Kohler, Briggs-Stratton or any other motor company makes filters, belts, hoses, batteries etc. They purchase them with their names labeled on them and set the specifications for each item they want to use in the manufacture of their machinery.

You can purchase from any filter manufacturer and have your label and boxing on them. I had three brands specific to our territories and our filters exceeded all manufacturer's specifications. Each of the manufacturers tried to talk us out of exceeding the auto, mower, motorcycle, truck or other manufacturer's specs because of the cost. However, when introducing an aftermarket brand, you better have something other than price to sell.

At any length, all any of you need to be sure of is the specifications are there. You can cut a filter apart (not that expensive if you want to check them out before you put the filter into service) and check out any claims by the seller. Such as anti-drain back valve, relief valve, micron paper, cotton, etc.

Not many folks wants to buy your mower so they'll generally provide the product you're purchasing.

Kawasaki tried that out on 2 of my customers where I had fitted a Gripski & Sons filter on one and a Stens on another.
So I just referred the matter to the filter suppliers and one customer got a new head the other a new engine.
In both cases the single bolt that holds the rocker mechanism in place came loose allowing the pushrods to drop into the engine.
Both from the same dealer and both went back to the same dealer for their first "in warranty" service who did not check the valve lash.
This was obvious by the lack of any marks on the retaining bolts or rocker covers.
They got a thorough 2 page report on the engines, damage & cause.
I got an invite to the Kawakasi service school and am looking forward to hanging another shingle on the wall.

Bert,

Up here in the U.S., not many of the big boys will fight a lawsuit over products meeting specifications as they've lost so many times and the money they spent on litigation has always gone way over the awards the courts have bestowed on the claimants. Not to mention it would have been cheaper to have replaced their defective workmanship and materials for the customer rather than trying to hang it on another brand item or the servicing dealer or repair shop.

Glad you came out the pretty smelling end of that stick.

Hope your day is going well.

Max

Fram Ultra XG4967 and Shell Rotella 15/40 once a year. Something about 40 hrs.

bertsmobile1 said:

Kawasaki tried that out on 2 of my customers where I had fitted a Gripski & Sons filter on one and a Stens on another.
So I just referred the matter to the filter suppliers and one customer got a new head the other a new engine.
In both cases the single bolt that holds the rocker mechanism in place came loose allowing the pushrods to drop into the engine.
Both from the same dealer and both went back to the same dealer for their first "in warranty" service who did not check the valve lash.
This was obvious by the lack of any marks on the retaining bolts or rocker covers.
They got a thorough 2 page report on the engines, damage & cause.
I got an invite to the Kawakasi service school and am looking forward to hanging another shingle on the wall.

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Bert- Where does it say in the paperwork supplied to owners that the Kawasaki powered mower Must come in for "In Warranty Service" including valve lash adj ?

I spoke to my Dealer in detail about the maintenance of this engine, when I bought it 8/20/14 & every year since.

And I even spoke to Kaw tech on the phone yesterday, he said be sure to set lash at 300 hours. Nothing about early checks, unless you hear abnormal ticking.

Down here the first oil change & service which is between 5 & 10 hours is a free service ( labour is free parts are not).
Mowers down here have a stipulated minimum warranty period of 12 months. regardless of useage .
Thus part of the first service is to check all fasteners including the valve lash.
After that it is as you have been told 300 hour intervals.
Got this mixed up.
Kawasaki first service is at 50 hours and it is a free ( labour only ) service and must be done by a qualified service technician, not the home owner , otherwise the warranty can be voided.

I must make a correction to my comment about motor companies and making their filters, belts, hoses and engine oils, lubricants, etc. Somehow, I managed to leave out the word "doesn't" make. They do not make their own.

PS,

Saw a video about using a particular hydro filter for a fairly high end zero turn. When you look up the brand, they are made in China and their micron filtration is 28, the hydro manufacturer calls for 10 microns.

The filters were knock offs and did NOT meet manufacturer specifications.

bertsmobile1 said:

Down here the first oil change & service which is between 5 & 10 hours is a free service ( labour is free parts are not).
Mowers down here have a stipulated minimum warranty period of 12 months. regardless of useage .
Thus part of the first service is to check all fasteners including the valve lash.
After that it is as you have been told 300 hour intervals.
Got this mixed up.
Kawasaki first service is at 50 hours and it is a free ( labour only ) service and must be done by a qualified service technician, not the home owner , otherwise the warranty can be voided.

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Bert- Thanks, Interesting, here warranty is 3 years, unlimited hours (unless commercial use).
And warranty (I'm told) can't be voided by a competent homeowner doing the service at proper intervals. And Kaw says nothing about 50 hour valve lash adjust, spoke to them by phone again today. And mine is getting valve lash check & adjust as needed by Dealer.

Kaw also told me I don't have to use their multi-grade 10w-40 oil, since I never used ANY oil till I switched from 30w to that multi-grade. So I'm gonna switch back to a 30w again.

OK y'all, I'm the OP. I went by my dealer (about 25 miles away) and bought their replacement, a Rotary part # 19-5909. This is a little deeper/longer than the original stubby KAW. Should be easier to access ... the stubby KAW had a little challenge to get a filter wrench on it.

One thing I discovered that I didn't like was the drain plug was plastic. I sure wish it was cast iron ... definitely no torquing the plastic!

Love my KAW engines, I've always bought Kohler and Honda.

Thanks all.

That is one of the reasons why I use pumps down the dip stick tube,
So much cleaner, quicker, easier and no chance of filling the engine with the sump plug out , breaking it, cross threading it or leaving it too lose.

BCuz said:

OK y'all, I'm the OP. I went by my dealer (about 25 miles away) and bought their replacement, a Rotary part # 19-5909. This is a little deeper/longer than the original stubby KAW. Should be easier to access ... the stubby KAW had a little challenge to get a filter wrench on it.

One thing I discovered that I didn't like was the drain plug was plastic. I sure wish it was cast iron ... definitely no torquing the plastic!

Love my KAW engines, I've always bought Kohler and Honda.

Thanks all.

Click to expand...

OP- sorry for the sidetrack.:ashamed:

For the oil filter, I have a poly 'cup socket' that fits the filters hex perfectly, I got it for Harley oil filters years ago, but fits Kaw filters perfectly. Got it from auto parts store. It has a 6 point socket head on it so you can add a 1" socket / long extension & ratchet, & quick removal of filter.

Plus for the drain plug, my 1st oil change I found the hex/screwdriver slot drain to be barely hand tight. Unacceptable, so I made it carefully tight ever since, but I dug around my shop & found end plugs, just plain old rubber or plastic end caps, & I fitted one one over the drain bolt housing & cut it down so it bottoms out on the bolt, that baby ain't backing out, & one one on the exit tube. Simple push on, & simple off as well.

They aren't coming loose, but easy to remove for oil change. & Peace of mind about the drain getting loose mowing. :thumbsup:

If you have the 49065-7007 as the original use Wix 57035, according to http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com. It's the same one, incidentally, that is used on most riding mowers with Briggs engines. For extra capacity I use 51348. Same specs but longer, more capacity, and half the price, due to less demand.
If it's a 49065-7010, go with Wix 51394 or 51395

Home depot stocks these filters usually if that helps

BCuz,

You can replace the plastic drain extension with a 3/8" pipe nipple and use a 3/8" pipe cap thereafter. There are also other items you can use to modify the drain and make it a bit easier. Just run down to the hardware and put together a combo you think you'll like.

Have fun,

Max

Thanks zman. I like Wix filters and will use the Xtra capacity one.

mhavanti said:

BCuz,

You can replace the plastic drain extension with a 3/8" pipe nipple and use a 3/8" pipe cap thereafter. There are also other items you can use to modify the drain and make it a bit easier. Just run down to the hardware and put together a combo you think you'll like.

Have fun,

Max

Click to expand...

That sounds best, thanks Max. :thumbsup:

I also use WIX filters and here are a few longer filter part numbers. Since it's an air cooled engine the more oil the better for cooling.

Kawasaki 49065-7007

Wix 57035 - 2.3" long - This is the stock replacement size.
Wix 51056 - 2.7" long
Wix 51348 - 3.4" Long
Wix 51516 - 4.8" Long - Also Motorcraft FL400A

I use Mobil 1 10W-30 with the larger Wix 51516 filter after swapping the factory stuff out at 20 hours.
Bigger filter sticks out further but there is plenty of room on my Raptor.
Currently at 125 hours and 2 1/2 years of service.
.
.
.

mhavanti said:

BCuz,

You can replace the plastic drain extension with a 3/8" pipe nipple and use a 3/8" pipe cap thereafter. There are also other items you can use to modify the drain and make it a bit easier. Just run down to the hardware and put together a combo you think you'll like.

Have fun,

Max

Click to expand...

NOT NPT, That is wrong. Make sure you get something with METRIC threads, because the Kawasaki 651 & 691 etc use M20 x 1.5