You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
More options
Export threadTons more is not better? But it's the American way.. way over the top!I agree with slomo,
At the very most I will only use ultra gray very thinly on a good gasket to reseal a valve cover, but not just straight RTV by itself. It takes prying the covers off if you have to readjust valves later.
The biggest problem with RTV is the people who apply too much of it.
That excess comes off inside and ends up in the oiling system and that is never good.
Happy mowing and be safe!
jaxontheweb
Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2017
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 21
Drain the carburetor bowl after you check for " Fire - Spark" at the spark plug. Starting fluid initially after draining the carb bowl.I finally got the drive belt in place!
Then I had to straighten a bent bracket and add two washers for a pulley to get lined up. Was able to get the motor running, I went for a drive and everything looks, feels and smells like it’s all good!
NOW I’m back to the motor won’t start!
Has my engine jumped out of time?
The motor starts to spin then I guess the spark plug fires, I hear a loud pop and the engine goes backwards. I hit the key and it will be spinning one way, but it’s like when the compression gets into the cylinder the engine turn slowly till it gets past that and then it’ll spin kind of freely till it hits compression again and it will slowly go past that. If the gas fires during compression it moves engine backwards!
Where do I start fixing this problem!
Lloyd
jaxontheweb
Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2017
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 21
Not really, cause we been der and done dat! Don't worry about asking, better than breaking something!
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2024
- Threads
- 17
- Messages
- 1,465
Hi RevB,Another session of " Let's all give advice to someone who is marginally capable of understanding mechanical things." I swear, all of you must do this for fun.
As the saying goes.... "Hope spring eternal".
How do people learn to be self-sufficient if no one is willing to teach them?
Yes, it can be a lesson in futility at times because some are impatient and searching for instant fixes, but if even one person learns, that is why we do this.
Thank you for your advice. I can get the mower to crank and run. Sometimes it just is difficult to start and acts like what I see in other peoples YouTube videos on mowers that need the valve lash adjusted. That’s going to be my next effort.Drain the carburetor bowl after you check for " Fire - Spark" at the spark plug. Starting fluid initially after draining the carb bowl.
OK, all this about what kind of gasket maker to use is more confusing to me than helpful.Sealing up your muffler? That RTV requires muscle to remove. Not for me.
I pulled off the gasket cover and had no trouble removing the Permatex gasket material. That material was red (RTV?) that had been suggested by an MTD tech during a phone conversation that took a considerable time. Sadly, I could not find the remainder of that tube of red gasket maker, so I decided get another one. With the location of the valve cover gasket on this riding mower, between the top of the cylinder head and the muffler, I assumed I should best be prepared for the high temperatures. That’s why I chose the Right Stuff 90 minute gasket maker red. It says it’s for temperature is up to 650° and is resistant to oils. Yes, it has a picture of exhaust headers but does that mean it should “only“ be used on headers?
So my question is – why should this NOT be used on a riding lawnmower, single cylinder engine valve cover?
I've adjusted the valves on a few of these. No pro mind you, but the release is just a small rise on the cam that holds the exhaust valve open a little to release some compression just before top dead center while cranking. Thats why the close tolerance on the exhaust valve adjustment is so critical. If the adjustment is too loose by just a few thousandths the exhaust valve closes completely retaining the high compression and the starter may not turn it over. The compression release is there so the starter can turn the engine over faster, or the pull rope is easier to turn. There is no release mechanism. I can't remember the adjustment, but as I recall it is something like.04 on the exhaust valve and .06 on the intake valve. If you adjust the exhaust to .06, the slack is so much the small cam just doesn't open the exhaust valve for the cranking compression release. When the engine is running the small release doesn't matter. I defer to the top guns, am I wrong???