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Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum, this is my first post. I tried a search but was unable to find an answer. I have a 1994 Troy-Bilt garden tractor with a 16 HP Briggs & Stratton engine. I was mowing the lawn today when the battery went dead. I put it on the charger and it charged back up (13v). I finished mowing and it was low again (10v). Is there any common problem that would cause this, regulator, ect...? How can I test the system? Thanks in advance, Terry.

get your battery LOAD tested first to eliminate that possibility......you will have to charge it up fully and take to auto parts store or a battery place.[like interstate]....thats would be my first step......p.s. a good charge can take 20 hrs

Battery tested good. Tractor is not charging. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for these Briggs engines?

is your motor a twin or single?

heres parts diagrams from my engine..see if that helps......http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=briggs_and_stratton&mn=402707-1270-01

if you can get the tractor model/serial#s and engine model/type#'s...that would really help

try this...PDF Manual Web Archive......http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=Z6ooyJVJ1DajI

if your mower has a electric pto clutch then you probably have a voltage regulator (item 501 in briggs parts list) that could be bad otherwise you will probably have to change the alternator that is under the flywheel.

reddragon said:

is your motor a twin or single?

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16 HP twin Vangaurd.

Well, I checked the two yellow wires coming from the engine to the regulator and I have 25v AC (engine running at full throttle) across them. The red wire from the regulator only has about 1v DC. So to the best of my knowledge, it's a pretty safe bet that the regulator is bad, since I'm guessing I should have somewhere around 14v DC on the red wire.

sounds like you found it:smile:

Yea, I think so. If I could only find a regulator locally. Thanks to everyone for the replies.

the regulator requires 12 v input to operate so even if you have 1 v output with the red wire unplugged it could still be good. most likely the regulator is the problem though.

Put the new regulator on and all is well, charging at about 14v. Thanks for the help. :smile:

Toptech said:

Well, I checked the two yellow wires coming from the engine to the regulator and I have 25v AC (engine running at full throttle) across them. The red wire from the regulator only has about 1v DC. So to the best of my knowledge, it's a pretty safe bet that the regulator is bad, since I'm guessing I should have somewhere around 14v DC on the red wire.

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Sure looks like you know what you are doing. That would have been the way I would have tested it.

Congratulations!:thumbsup:It's good to read a success story and the steps involved.

Toptech said:

Well, I checked the two yellow wires coming from the engine to the regulator and I have 25v AC (engine running at full throttle) across them. The red wire from the regulator only has about 1v DC. So to the best of my knowledge, it's a pretty safe bet that the regulator is bad, since I'm guessing I should have somewhere around 14v DC on the red wire.

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On some engines theres a Diode that comes from the alternator. That could be bad if your has it.
But it might be built into the regulator. not 100% sure on this without having a diagram.

Toptech said:

Well, I checked the two yellow wires coming from the engine to the regulator and I have 25v AC (engine running at full throttle) across them. The red wire from the regulator only has about 1v DC. So to the best of my knowledge, it's a pretty safe bet that the regulator is bad, since I'm guessing I should have somewhere around 14v DC on the red wire.

Click to expand...

Hey man. Good job. You got it. Good troubleshooting skills.