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Hi there. I have a cub cadet model #13ava1cs009 Was running fine, Went to start it next time to cut and nothing,,
No start,, no power,,nothing
There is no power to the other side of solenoid, I have changed the key switch and a new solenoid,' No luck,, Battery voltage is 12.8 so i know that"s not it. there is power from battery to solenoid but nothing after that.You can jump the solenoid and engine will turn over but not start then either. I found a use close to the battery and it appears to be good. Blades are not engaged and brake is locked down. What am i missing here?
Thanks in advance.

Fuses can fail and still appear to be good. Check with a fuse tester or replace to eliminate it as a possible cause. I've been caught by that assumption myself before and wasted a LOT of time because of it.

Been my experience that if it don't start it cannot make any power...................:laughing:

SidecarFlip said:

Been my experience that if it don't start it cannot make any power...................:laughing:

Click to expand...

I came here for help...not smart azz answers,,if you dont have asolution to my problem stay off my thread,,,

As i said no start,,no power to the other side of the solenoid,,\20 amp fuse is good,,blades are not engaged and brake is on,ANYBODY???

Go through this procedure to pinpoint the cause. SideCar, for your understanding, the battery can make power even if the engine won’t start. Report back your findings and we will give more input.

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]1. * How well you understand basic electricity.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]2. *What tools you have and know how to use.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]3. *How well you follow directions.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.[/FONT][/FONT]
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As i stated,,there is no power anywhere after the battery,,1 post on solenoid is hot,,nothing after that,,Brakes are locked down,,deck is off,,,handle to engage is all the way back,,sitting on the seat,,nothing,,no lights,,no click,,nada,,,,fuse is good,,,removed ground wire from body,,cleaned body and cable with 80 grit,,still nothing,,,

On the large post on the solenoid, which the battery wire is connected, there should be a small wire which goes to the switch. Did you test the B terminal on the switch to which this wire is attached? I’ll bet not. I’ve been polite to you, but if you want to answer the questions in my post as you replied to SideCar, then I can’t help you. Your choice how you want to proceed.

Thanks for your time and replies. I have checked 2x and there is no power anywhere other than the 1 post on the solenoid.
i will look again at both small wires after work today. I do appreciate your help.

I had that problem on my Tank the linkage to the hydraulic valve would bend and not activate the safety switch. I took it back 6 times and Cub could not fix it.

I have the exact same lawn tractor except my deck is a 50" three blade. The only safety switches are on the seat, brake, PTO and no mow in reverse. The NMIR switch couldn't be a factor in this case. You can test switches by unplugging them one at a time and jumping across the plugs with a small piece of wire bent in a u shape. This is only for diagnostics, not for mowing.

Did you check the connections at the battery? Tight? Clean? You can still get good voltage with a poor connection under no load conditions.

Please keep us informed of what you find.

Firstly Rivets gave you a very good response, he gave you a series of testes to do but you have not reported the results.

Having read your post a few times, the penny dropped.
On the top of the solenoid there are 3 wires.
1) thick wire from the battery
2) thick wire to the starter
3) thin wire which is the power wire to the mower.

The last wire & first wire have to be on the same post.
You would not be the first person to accidentially put it on the switched ( starter ) post and I doubt you will be the last.

He hasn't posted in four days. I guess he either fixed it or took it to a shop. I wish people would tell us the end results of things. A lot of threads are left hanging when a fix is found and no results are posted. Posting a follow up helps all of us.