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No start, no current to white wire on solenoid
#1
K
Keith B
K
Keith B
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#2
T
Telesis
T
Telesis
First, the seat switch has nothing to do with the starting circuit. The seat switch is used in conjunction with the PTO switch to shut the mower off when A) the engine is running + B) the PTO is engaged or on + C) the operator gets off the tractor. When that happens, the ignition unit is grounded and the tractor is 'killed'. That's why you can get off the tractor as long as the PTO is off.
For the starting circuit, I looked at the wiring diagram for a tractor of similar vintage. I could not find your exact manual but I'm very confident it's the same. BTW, you are measuring Voltage, not Current. There are 3 things in series, as you've observed, before you get to the solenoid. Battery voltage goes thru the ignition switch, then to the clutch/brake pedal switch, then to the PTO switch, then to the solenoid, in that order. So, with your meter set to measure 12VDC, start at the ignition switch. You said you did that and you are seeing 12V when the Ign key is turned to start(at the white wire). Your black lead is touching a good ground at the frame or battery (-) post. Next, go to the clutch/brake pedal switch. With the brake set, you should measure 12V on BOTH sides of the switch. If you only have it on one side, then this switch is your problem. Since you said you didn't measure anything on either side of the connector, it appears the fault is between the Ign switch and this switch.
For completeness sake I'll finish the circuit testing. If you have 12V on both sides of the brake switch, go to the PTO switch. It will have 4 connections. Two are connected when the switch is off(likely white wires), and two are connected when it's on(likely black wires). The two that are connected when the switch is OFF are the ones you are interested in. With the PTO OFF, just like the brake switch you should have 12V on both white wires(I'm assuming both are white. I know at least the one going to the solenoid is white) If you do have voltage on both sides, and you do not have it right at the solenoid when you remove the white wire and measure, then the problem is the wire in between. If you only have 12V on one side of the PTO and not the other, the PTO switch is bad.
So, based on what you described, you did NOT measure 12V on either side of the clutch/brake switch. You need to trace the wire from the Ign switch to this switch. You can disconnect both ends and use the Ohms function of your meter to check the wire itself and verify if it's open(infinite ohms) or OK (very low ohms).
Take a few more measurements and let us know what you find.
For the starting circuit, I looked at the wiring diagram for a tractor of similar vintage. I could not find your exact manual but I'm very confident it's the same. BTW, you are measuring Voltage, not Current. There are 3 things in series, as you've observed, before you get to the solenoid. Battery voltage goes thru the ignition switch, then to the clutch/brake pedal switch, then to the PTO switch, then to the solenoid, in that order. So, with your meter set to measure 12VDC, start at the ignition switch. You said you did that and you are seeing 12V when the Ign key is turned to start(at the white wire). Your black lead is touching a good ground at the frame or battery (-) post. Next, go to the clutch/brake pedal switch. With the brake set, you should measure 12V on BOTH sides of the switch. If you only have it on one side, then this switch is your problem. Since you said you didn't measure anything on either side of the connector, it appears the fault is between the Ign switch and this switch.
For completeness sake I'll finish the circuit testing. If you have 12V on both sides of the brake switch, go to the PTO switch. It will have 4 connections. Two are connected when the switch is off(likely white wires), and two are connected when it's on(likely black wires). The two that are connected when the switch is OFF are the ones you are interested in. With the PTO OFF, just like the brake switch you should have 12V on both white wires(I'm assuming both are white. I know at least the one going to the solenoid is white) If you do have voltage on both sides, and you do not have it right at the solenoid when you remove the white wire and measure, then the problem is the wire in between. If you only have 12V on one side of the PTO and not the other, the PTO switch is bad.
So, based on what you described, you did NOT measure 12V on either side of the clutch/brake switch. You need to trace the wire from the Ign switch to this switch. You can disconnect both ends and use the Ohms function of your meter to check the wire itself and verify if it's open(infinite ohms) or OK (very low ohms).
Take a few more measurements and let us know what you find.
#3
Boobala
Boobala
If there's a fuse in your harness ...check that too!
#4
K
Keith B
K
Keith B
Telesis, thanks so much for this fantastic series of instructions. Last night, I did measure voltage to both of the white wires on the Cluth/Brake Switch, and the two white wires on the PTO Switch (you are correct, my PTO has two white wires and two black wires). Both white wires on both of those switches showed no DC Voltage. When checking for this voltage, I know the key must be in the "on" position. But does the key have to be rotated all the way, to the actual last "start motor" click? I did it both ways, and I still got no voltage on both of those switches. Just want to make like easier tonight, in case I don't have to hold the key in that last "start motor" position, as I plan to poke around with it again tonight. I will also try to disconnect both ends of wiring and check Ohms measurement - thanks for that suggestion! So when I disconnect the wire and measure both ends of the white wire, do I simply touch red multimeter lead to one end of the wire, and black multimeter lead to the other end of the wire? If the wire is good, will that be infinite ohm or very low ohms. At my age I should know this, but I am not experienced with electrical.
#5
J
Johnmcnulty
I have a Hayter 13/30 which has no power through the small wire to the solenoid (if I connect to the battery directly it operates the connection). There is a good 12volt connection to the main solenoid wire. The earth is also good.
I replaced the ignition switch. There is continuity from the ignition switch to the lights but they do not come on with the key. I checked the PTO and brake switches, they work properly, there is continuity from those connecting wires to the battery earth, as there is with the seat safety switch. The fuse is good.
If I try shorting the solenoid across the top the engine started a couple of times, now it turns over but doesn't want to get going.
As the problem started with the solenoid not getting power through the small wire (white on some machines) I checked the new ignition key and I am getting continuity between the battery and starter posts.
Any advice would be much appreciated, this is driving me nuts! Thanks!
J
Johnmcnulty
First, the seat switch has nothing to do with the starting circuit. The seat switch is used in conjunction with the PTO switch to shut the mower off when A) the engine is running + B) the PTO is engaged or on + C) the operator gets off the tractor. When that happens, the ignition unit is grounded and the tractor is 'killed'. That's why you can get off the tractor as long as the PTO is off.
For the starting circuit, I looked at the wiring diagram for a tractor of similar vintage. I could not find your exact manual but I'm very confident it's the same. BTW, you are measuring Voltage, not Current. There are 3 things in series, as you've observed, before you get to the solenoid. Battery voltage goes thru the ignition switch, then to the clutch/brake pedal switch, then to the PTO switch, then to the solenoid, in that order. So, with your meter set to measure 12VDC, start at the ignition switch. You said you did that and you are seeing 12V when the Ign key is turned to start(at the white wire). Your black lead is touching a good ground at the frame or battery (-) post. Next, go to the clutch/brake pedal switch. With the brake set, you should measure 12V on BOTH sides of the switch. If you only have it on one side, then this switch is your problem. Since you said you didn't measure anything on either side of the connector, it appears the fault is between the Ign switch and this switch.
For completeness sake I'll finish the circuit testing. If you have 12V on both sides of the brake switch, go to the PTO switch. It will have 4 connections. Two are connected when the switch is off(likely white wires), and two are connected when it's on(likely black wires). The two that are connected when the switch is OFF are the ones you are interested in. With the PTO OFF, just like the brake switch you should have 12V on both white wires(I'm assuming both are white. I know at least the one going to the solenoid is white) If you do have voltage on both sides, and you do not have it right at the solenoid when you remove the white wire and measure, then the problem is the wire in between. If you only have 12V on one side of the PTO and not the other, the PTO switch is bad.
So, based on what you described, you did NOT measure 12V on either side of the clutch/brake switch. You need to trace the wire from the Ign switch to this switch. You can disconnect both ends and use the Ohms function of your meter to check the wire itself and verify if it's open(infinite ohms) or OK (very low ohms).
Take a few more measurements and let us know what you find.
I have a Hayter 13/30 which has no power through the small wire to the solenoid (if I connect to the battery directly it operates the connection). There is a good 12volt connection to the main solenoid wire. The earth is also good.
I replaced the ignition switch. There is continuity from the ignition switch to the lights but they do not come on with the key. I checked the PTO and brake switches, they work properly, there is continuity from those connecting wires to the battery earth, as there is with the seat safety switch. The fuse is good.
If I try shorting the solenoid across the top the engine started a couple of times, now it turns over but doesn't want to get going.
As the problem started with the solenoid not getting power through the small wire (white on some machines) I checked the new ignition key and I am getting continuity between the battery and starter posts.
Any advice would be much appreciated, this is driving me nuts! Thanks!
#6
S
shiftsuper175607
John
It gets very confusing trying to fix two problems on one thread.
Start your own problem thread with all the info and you should get the help you need.
S
shiftsuper175607
I have a Hayter 13/30 which has no power through the small wire to the solenoid (if I connect to the battery directly it operates the connection). There is a good 12volt connection to the main solenoid wire. The earth is also good.
I replaced the ignition switch. There is continuity from the ignition switch to the lights but they do not come on with the key. I checked the PTO and brake switches, they work properly, there is continuity from those connecting wires to the battery earth, as there is with the seat safety switch. The fuse is good.
If I try shorting the solenoid across the top the engine started a couple of times, now it turns over but doesn't want to get going.
As the problem started with the solenoid not getting power through the small wire (white on some machines) I checked the new ignition key and I am getting continuity between the battery and starter posts.
Any advice would be much appreciated, this is driving me nuts! Thanks!
John
It gets very confusing trying to fix two problems on one thread.
Start your own problem thread with all the info and you should get the help you need.
#7
B
bertsmobile1
Well you know your problem, no power to the trigger wire on the solenoid.
Follow it back through the harness, checking for 12 V either side of all the switches you come across till you find the faulty one.
You will find it easier if you pull the plug from the key switch & jump the B & S positions, be very careful that you get it right cause if you jump anything to the M terminal you will fry the magneto.
Jumping the B = Battery ( power in ) to the S = Solenoid ( power out to your white wire ) will leave both hands free to test the switches, both side till the dud one is found.
PIA but there is no quick & easy way to do it.
B
bertsmobile1
I have a Hayter 13/30 which has no power through the small wire to the solenoid (if I connect to the battery directly it operates the connection). There is a good 12volt connection to the main solenoid wire. The earth is also good.
I replaced the ignition switch. There is continuity from the ignition switch to the lights but they do not come on with the key. I checked the PTO and brake switches, they work properly, there is continuity from those connecting wires to the battery earth, as there is with the seat safety switch. The fuse is good.
If I try shorting the solenoid across the top the engine started a couple of times, now it turns over but doesn't want to get going.
As the problem started with the solenoid not getting power through the small wire (white on some machines) I checked the new ignition key and I am getting continuity between the battery and starter posts.
Any advice would be much appreciated, this is driving me nuts! Thanks!
Well you know your problem, no power to the trigger wire on the solenoid.
Follow it back through the harness, checking for 12 V either side of all the switches you come across till you find the faulty one.
You will find it easier if you pull the plug from the key switch & jump the B & S positions, be very careful that you get it right cause if you jump anything to the M terminal you will fry the magneto.
Jumping the B = Battery ( power in ) to the S = Solenoid ( power out to your white wire ) will leave both hands free to test the switches, both side till the dud one is found.
PIA but there is no quick & easy way to do it.
#8
J
Johnmcnulty
Thanks I'll give that a try!
J
Johnmcnulty
Well you know your problem, no power to the trigger wire on the solenoid.
Follow it back through the harness, checking for 12 V either side of all the switches you come across till you find the faulty one.
You will find it easier if you pull the plug from the key switch & jump the B & S positions, be very careful that you get it right cause if you jump anything to the M terminal you will fry the magneto.
Jumping the B = Battery ( power in ) to the S = Solenoid ( power out to your white wire ) will leave both hands free to test the switches, both side till the dud one is found.
PIA but there is no quick & easy way to do it.
Thanks I'll give that a try!
#9
J
Johnmcnulty
Sorry about that, the re-post related to checking the switches, John
J
Johnmcnulty
John
It gets very confusing trying to fix two problems on one thread.
Start your own problem thread with all the info and you should get the help you need.
Sorry about that, the re-post related to checking the switches, John
#10
J
Johnmcnulty
I tried that and had power coming through the switches to the small orange wire on the solenoid.
I bypassed the switches just to check and same thing.
I am getting 12.4 volts to the small wire when I crank the ignition switch. I have a continuity to the battery earth from the solenoid.
The solenoid activates if I take it off and connect it directly to the battery.
The switch shows continuity between B and S when I turn the key to crank.
I'm not getting lights on either, any more ideas would be great, Thanks!
J
Johnmcnulty
Thanks I'll give that a try!
I tried that and had power coming through the switches to the small orange wire on the solenoid.
I bypassed the switches just to check and same thing.
I am getting 12.4 volts to the small wire when I crank the ignition switch. I have a continuity to the battery earth from the solenoid.
The solenoid activates if I take it off and connect it directly to the battery.
The switch shows continuity between B and S when I turn the key to crank.
I'm not getting lights on either, any more ideas would be great, Thanks!
#11
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
OK, so you have a 4 pole solenoid, two big ones for the starter power and two small ones for the control ( trigger ) .
In that case one of the control wires should go + 12V when the key is in the start position.
The other wire must go to ground when the key is in the start position.
The latter is done via a relay.
The concept of switching grounds on & off confuses a lot of people.
I am sorry, I should have looked up your actual wiring diagram before posting my response.
Usually yellow, white or orange coloured wires are used for the + 12V trigger and brown, green or black for the - trigger.
I can not get a wiring diagram for Hayter on line so it will be difficult to work this through with you without one.
From memory they are the UK brand for Stiga made by Global Garden Products.
There should be a wiring diagram in your owners manual if so could you scan it and then post it to the forum you will get better solutions.
If you have a 4 pole solenoid it should close & crank the engine when one of the trigger wires is +12V and the other is ground.
If you have a 3 pole solenoid it should fire when the trigger wire ( the one near the bottom with it's own spade terminal ) is 12V and the body is ground
So jump the trigger terminals and see what happens.
a photo would help a lot as people get confused with the power take off from the hot terminal on the top of the solenoid.
As for your lights, there are 2 systems used
1) runs them off the battery
2) other runs them off the alternator so they only work when the engine is running.
In that case one of the control wires should go + 12V when the key is in the start position.
The other wire must go to ground when the key is in the start position.
The latter is done via a relay.
The concept of switching grounds on & off confuses a lot of people.
I am sorry, I should have looked up your actual wiring diagram before posting my response.
Usually yellow, white or orange coloured wires are used for the + 12V trigger and brown, green or black for the - trigger.
I can not get a wiring diagram for Hayter on line so it will be difficult to work this through with you without one.
From memory they are the UK brand for Stiga made by Global Garden Products.
There should be a wiring diagram in your owners manual if so could you scan it and then post it to the forum you will get better solutions.
If you have a 4 pole solenoid it should close & crank the engine when one of the trigger wires is +12V and the other is ground.
If you have a 3 pole solenoid it should fire when the trigger wire ( the one near the bottom with it's own spade terminal ) is 12V and the body is ground
So jump the trigger terminals and see what happens.
a photo would help a lot as people get confused with the power take off from the hot terminal on the top of the solenoid.
As for your lights, there are 2 systems used
1) runs them off the battery
2) other runs them off the alternator so they only work when the engine is running.
#12
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#13
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#14
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#15
sgkent
sgkent
Everyone note - this is an old thread and the new poster has not listed his model or serial number
get a 12V light tester at your local FLAPS or HF and use that to probe for 12V. If the light comes on you have 12V. Just follow the path going backwards from the solenoid until you find 12V. That will tell you which switch, relay, fuse, or coupling is the defect.
I am new at this mate, i have the exact same problem, sounds like the same old Craftsman mid 80's, i'll start at the clutch / brake switch, if i can find it, Cheers
get a 12V light tester at your local FLAPS or HF and use that to probe for 12V. If the light comes on you have 12V. Just follow the path going backwards from the solenoid until you find 12V. That will tell you which switch, relay, fuse, or coupling is the defect.
#16
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#17
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I'll get that tomorrow champ, the manual for it doesn't exist. I;ll get the Model & serial Numbers of the tag under the seat, It will test us.
#18
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#19
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
Righto, here we go, Model No. WC12H38AE, Serial No.2239S01075. Made In the U.S.A. 12 HP Briggs & Stratton IC. CASTIRON BORE,
#20
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#21
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
I can not access the craftsman site from Australia as it is geographically excluded.
The basic wiring will be battery power wire at the key switch to the S ( for start ) terminal on the key switch then to the PTo safety switch then to the parking brake switch and if it is a manual box to the neutral switch on the box then down the the solenoid.
The batery wire to the key switch is usually full red & will have a fuse in it.
Usually iit is connected to the hot side of the solenoid battery cable ( saves wire )
All of the switches will be NO 9 closed circuit when plunger depressed
so that makes it easy as all you need to do is jump the 2 wires at each switch
If the parking brake has 4 wires then they jump flat to flat one side needs to be jumped to crank the engine, the other side needs to be open to turn the magneto on so you can jump both sides to start with and see which pair will cause the engine to crank
The basic wiring will be battery power wire at the key switch to the S ( for start ) terminal on the key switch then to the PTo safety switch then to the parking brake switch and if it is a manual box to the neutral switch on the box then down the the solenoid.
The batery wire to the key switch is usually full red & will have a fuse in it.
Usually iit is connected to the hot side of the solenoid battery cable ( saves wire )
All of the switches will be NO 9 closed circuit when plunger depressed
so that makes it easy as all you need to do is jump the 2 wires at each switch
If the parking brake has 4 wires then they jump flat to flat one side needs to be jumped to crank the engine, the other side needs to be open to turn the magneto on so you can jump both sides to start with and see which pair will cause the engine to crank
#22
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#23
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
I am hoping someone may have solution for this. I am proud to own my late father's old (mid to late 1980's?) Craftsman LawnRider, #model 917.256322, serial #0931S02493. It has always been very well maintained and stored indoors. When I tried to start it for this first time this season, I have fully charged battery, and when I turn the key, nothing. No clicking, no noise, nothing. I used jumper cable and connected positive post on the battery to the red post on the starter, and then the starter turns over. I really need to start it with the key. The white wire going into the solenoid has no current going to it. There are no breaks in the wires. Yes, I have current coming out of the white wire that exits the ignition switch. The two white wires on the clutch safety switch, and the two wires on the PTO safety switch, have NO current. Should I also be looking at the seat switch? I did hold the spring-activated metal plate that is under my seat, in the "there is a person sitting here" position with some tools, and I then tested for current in the two wires going into the wiring harness that enters that metal spring plate, and there is no current for both of those wires. The starter motor is fine, and I don't think the solenoid is bad, either. Any ideas? Most people I know would approach this as "oh well, time to buy a new tractor". I am not from that school of thought (or that tax bracket). This is a perfectly good machine that has been highly maintained and pampered, it simply needs a diagnosis on what likely is a $15 part.
#24
O
Old Craftsman.
O
Old Craftsman.
Righto, here we go, Model No. WC12H38AE, Serial No.2239S01075. Made In the U.S.A. 12 HP Briggs & Stratton IC. CASTIRON BORE,