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There is no power going to the trigger wire (Blue) at bottom of solenoid which looks like a car starter (Starter attached to a tube solenoid). One Red Wire on top connection to Starter direct from Battery. Tested PTO, Starter Switch, Ammeter, Seat Switch and Brake Clutch switch. All switches has continuity. Pulled 7-Blade Plug from Starter Switch and tested for voltage at M or B...no power. Tested voltage across Fuse...no power and Fuse is good. Anyone have any thoughts?

The M wire is the magneto wire & never ever should have any voltage.
It gets connected to the G = Ground terminal to turn the mower off.
The B = battery wire must read battery voltage at all times
So if there is no power at the plug then either the fuse you thought was good is not good or there is a break in the power circuit.

Do you have battery power to the fuse. If not then you need to figure out why. Just because the fuse test good doesn't mean it is making connection to the terminals.

Thank you both (bertsmobile1 and ILENGINE) for your time and answers !!! I am getting NO Voltage to the Fuse. I tested the Fuse with a Voltmeter and it was fine. Can I create a Wire and splice in, with a Fuse, directly from the Battery and to the B on the switch? Since I used my voltmeter (Fluke) to test Continuity to the PTO, Key Switch, Ammeter, Seat Switch, Fuse and Brake/Clutch switch (all had continuity) AND checked continuity in the wiring from the Key Switch Wiring down to the connector just in front of the Starter Solenoid and got Continuity in all the wiring EXCEPT the M wiring to the connector. BTW..jumping the Positive on the Battery to the tab on the bottom of the Starter Motor/Solenoid did start the engine turning.

That is basically what you should have now, except the normal wiring pattern would be from the side of the solenoid with the battery connection through the fuse to the key switch. So will do some odd things like go to a voltage/amp gauge first.

ILENGINE said:

That is basically what you should have now, except the normal wiring pattern would be from the side of the solenoid with the battery connection through the fuse to the key switch. So will do some odd things like go to a voltage/amp gauge first.

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I checked to see if there was a Red lead going directly from the top of the Solenoid to the Battery. No. I noticed that I had a small Red Lead going from the Battery to a Bullet Connector. I disconnected the connector and checked for Resistance from the Bottom of the connector to the two Female Spade Connectors that go to the Ammeter. One lead to the one Spade Connector the other to Ground on the Battery and Multi-Meter on Volts (20). I got no reading UNTIL I took the Ground sensor off the Battery where it now read 14.5 volts for an instant. Tried it again and again got 14.8 Volts as soon as the multi-meter terminal was off the Ground. The other Spade connection to the Ammeter read nothing. Then I place both on the Ammeter and read Voltage. Again, as soon as I took the sensor off the Ground it read 4.5 then 14.8 in an instant on BOTH Spade Terminals on the Ammeter.
Obviously, on the short side of the Red wire from the battery it read 14.5 - 14.8 continuously. On the other side of the disconnected Bullet Connector it read the screwy readings I was alluding to above. BTW I can't see where the Red lead from the Pos on the battery goes to since it is covered up by Protection for the Wiring Loom.

Looks like they are coming off of the battery for its power source. The most logical wiring would be from that bullet connector to the fuse, But they could go directly to the ammeter and then to the fuse. Could you provide a model number off of the mower, so I can see if I can find a wiring schematic.

ILENGINE said:

Looks like they are coming off of the battery for its power source. The most logical wiring would be from that bullet connector to the fuse, But they could go directly to the ammeter and then to the fuse. Could you provide a model number off of the mower, so I can see if I can find a wiring schematic.

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Craftsman 23 HP 48" Mower Garden Tractor Model # 917.275010 Wiring Diagram Attached
I really appreciate your time for me and my problem.

Some of your readings allude to a broken wire or faulty connection some place between the fuse and the battery. I would make up a wire to go from the battery through a fuse to the B on the key switch and see what happens.

ILENGINE, Forum Newbie, BestMobile 1....I want to thank you all for helping me out. I took apart the Plastic Protection for the Gang of Wires, all the clips & Zip Ties to find....YES... A broken Red Wire. Used a Butt Connetor and all is well. I will say I got a real educations on how to work my Fluke Multi-Meter on the Lawnmower.

Cheese, now you understand why shops charge so much for diagnosing electrical issues. Sometimes we have to track down things just like that, but sometimes a meter will give false reading due to the wire may have voltage but doesn't carry amps. So what reads like 12.5 volts with a meter will not power a test light sometimes.

Thank you for coming back with the job done to close the thread.
We are here to help and helping you helps us.
For the reason Illengine stated I usually use a test light as well with an old headlamp globe so it pulls 5 amps