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Newbie with old Rider 155

#1

R

rrew

Hello, all
I am attempting to restore this 18 year old mower. I have the engine nice and strong and am now on to the old transmission oil. I can not find a service manual for the Rider 155, but I did find one for the Rider 13, which appears to be the same (both have the Tuff Torq K46 transmission) except for the engine. So on to the question:
Is the transmission oil change procedure the same for both? Simply remove the two drain plugs and drain, and then fill via the oil tank and then bleed the system?
Thanks


#2

R

Rivets

Can you post the model and serial numbers from the ID tag for the unit you have? We may be able to find your unit.


#3

R

rrew

Will likely be tomorrow before I can get that info, but I will.
Thanks for your quick reply. I don't want to mess this up.


#4

R

rrew

Let me follow up: the mower is a Husqvarna Rider 155, 2003-01, type number 953 53 36-05, serial 03 0500249. It will be tomorrow before I can get the info off the transmission.


#5

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Rivets

You do have a K46 tranny. Here is what Tuff Torq has for an oil change on K46 units. https://www.tufftorq.com/tuff-torq-transaxle-oil-service/


#6

R

rrew

I understand there are about 3 million different versions (many of which require removing the transmission and turning it over to drain) of the K46, so confusion is the word! Anyway, here is the info off the transmission: K46I p # 506 9883-02, s# 481-0008764. Thanks for the reference, though. It looks like I might be able to ask on that page what I need to know. And if you have any more thoughts, I would love to hear them.
Thanks again


#7

B

bertsmobile1

Yes but they all work the same & the oil change proceedure is identical
They are variations, ie pulley size pulley keying onto the shaft, length & position of control arms , final drive ratio, length of axels and means of securing the wheels but the tranny is the same


#8

R

rrew

Update, I have drain plugs, so no removing the thing to turn it upside down. I can fill it through the oil tank rather than the fill hole (which is buried under other bits on my machine). This from ggraham on the Tuff Torq tech tips site.So, forward!


#9

B

bertsmobile1

The last time I did an oil change on one of these it took a full week to purge the hydro via the overflow tank.
In the end I removed the tank and ran the mower slowly while I had my sump pump hooked up to the overflow / expansion tank pipe.
after an hour or so I added some more oil, left the mower sit for a while then started it , ran it for a while then put the pump back on till I got the entire recommended fill quantatity of oil in.
The customer was over the moon when it came back because it had near doubled the ground speed so was well worth doing and probably way overdue .


#10

R

rrew

bertsmobile1 said:
The last time I did an oil change on one of these it took a full week to purge the hydro via the overflow tank.
In the end I removed the tank and ran the mower slowly while I had my sump pump hooked up to the overflow / expansion tank pipe.
after an hour or so I added some more oil, left the mower sit for a while then started it , ran it for a while then put the pump back on till I got the entire recommended fill quantatity of oil in.
The customer was over the moon when it came back because it had near doubled the ground speed so was well worth doing and probably way overdue .
Click to expand...
Thanks for your insight. I would use the fill hole but it is really buried under a couple of large steel arms that would have to be removed on my Rider 155, that is why I am opting for using the expansion tank fill. I am OK with it taking a long time since I don't have a garage or shop to do the work - I am outside. As long as it will fill I will be happy.


#11

B

bertsmobile1

Yes it took a while because the air has to escape out of the same tube as you are trying to make the oil go in
And remember that is is all piston pumps and will quite happily just compress the air then let the pressure back off again rather than pushing the air out
Oil is easy to push, air is not ,
Fill the tank very slowly say 1/2" at a time
The less oil in the tank the less pressure head for the air to displace


#12

R

rrew

Thanks for that heads up. I had not considered that, but the 1/2" you suggest looks to be right about at the "Full" mark on the tank.


#13

R

rrew

Finally, after the entire world conspired to keep me from finishing this, it is done (I think). I was able to drain through the drain holes and then fill with 1.9 liters of oil (spec says 2.2 liters approx). I followed the bleed instructions and now it doesn't want to take any more oil, and in fact, when I drive it I have oil coming up into the tank. It runs in forward and reverse just fine. I have not mounted the mower deck yet, to keep the weight down. I will continue to monitor the tank level for a time, but am I good to go?


#14

R

Rivets

Thank you for the update, most guys wouldn’t do that.


#15

R

rrew

Rivets said:
Thank you for the update, most guys wouldn’t do that.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the thanks. So what do you think? I am I good to go?


#16

R

Rivets

That I can’t say, as I’m not there to see everything for myself. Doing things like this you need to take it slow and trust your gut.


#17

R

rrew

Rivets said:
That I can’t say, as I’m not there to see everything for myself. Doing things like this you need to take it slow and trust your gut.
Click to expand...
That is kinda what I was expecting to hear. So I will continue to monitor oil level. But now I will install the deck (with all new bearings) and give it a try without blades to see what needs replacement next. If that goes well, I have new blades to install. Of course we have been very dry this summer so I have no need of the machine at the moment. And there is nothing wrong with being a teacher. My wife is a retired teach and I happen to like her - a lot. Thanks again for your input.


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