New turf tiger

Bobby Boyd

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I just purchased a new turf tiger 61 inch cut. Is there anything I need to know about the initial breakin period?
 

KennyV

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WELCOME to LMF...

I replied to your other post... But since I'm here...:

VERY Good/Great machine...
Keep everything clean, lubed and greased...
And for my Own reasons, would switch over to synthetics as soon as possible... :smile:KennyV
 

Sprinkler Buddy

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I think the hydro pump fluid and filter should be changed after the first 50hrs, not positive on the hrs, check your paper work.
 

Mad Mackie

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I just purchased a new turf tiger 61 inch cut. Is there anything I need to know about the initial breakin period?

Read and understand the Scag operators manual for your machine and get the operators and service manuals specifically for the engine model on your machine. Most modern engine manufacturers recommend synthetic oil for their engines but only after a breakin period with dino oil, possibly up to 50 hours on dino oil with several changes before switching to synthetic.
The Scag operators manual will tell you what the hydro pumps and wheel motors on your machine are to use for oil. It may very well be synthetic, but most likely 20W-50 dino engine oil.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
 

Bobby Boyd

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Would someone please explain to me why synthetic oil would be better for the hydro's on my turf tiger than motor oil?
 

KennyV

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Heat & oxidation....plus a few other... :smile:KennyV
 

Mad Mackie

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Turf Tiger has Hydro-Gear pumps and Parker wheel motors, one of these is not recommended for operation with synthetic motor oil. While your Turf Tiger is on warranty I would use 20W-50 dino oil. When the warranty is expired you can use what you like. All of the Scag operators manuals specify 20W-50 motor oil and no reference to synthetic oil in the hydraulic systems. When I questioned my Scag dealer, he said synthetic is not recommended in the hydraulic systems on Scag ZTRs.
I'm not anti-synthetic, I have switched both of my Ingersoll GTs which are hydraulic drive from 20W-40 dino oil to 20W-50 synthetic motor oil. They start easier in cold weather, particularly the Onan powered GT. 20W-50 full synthetic motor oil is not easy to find around here and is over $11 per quart when I do find it. My Ingersoll GTs take 7-8 quarts each in the hydraulic drive system!!! Currently all my larger equipment has B&S engines all of which are recommended for operation with 5W-30 full synthetic motor oil year round and this is what I use in them. This has reduced the number of different oils that I have to keep on hand as a commercial operator.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
 

Bobby Boyd

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Thanks for your earlier reply.

I plan on running 20w-50 per turf tiger manual. I'm only using the mower for my resident which is a little over an acre. My mower was manufactured in October 2011 according to email from scag. I assume it comes from factory with 20w-50 in it. The dealer where I bought mine said when people bring their mowers in (scag, gravely etc) they put 15w-50 synthetic oil in the hydro's at their shop. I asked why not go by manual and the answer I was given was that they "can no longer get 20w-50 motor oil from NAPA". How hard will it be for me to find 20w-50 motor when it comes time to change it?

I like doing things according to the manual but also like to hear from people who have experience such as yourself with the scag turf tiger.

I will have to change engine oil and filter at 20 hrs. How does the oil drain plug work? I've never seen one quite like that.

Thanks again for your help in this matter.

-bobby
 

Mad Mackie

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Local Advance Autoparts store orders Valvoline 20W50 synthetic for me but it has been a while since I got some. I use the synthetic oil in my Ingersoll GTs, but I'm down to just one Ingersoll at the moment.
Scag dealer sells Wolfs Head 20W50 dino oil so I get it there for my Scag Tiger Cub. The only synthetic motor oil that they sell is 5W30 for B&S engines and 10W30 for other makes.
You need to know that when you remove the hyd system oil filter that the hyd oil reservoir will drain out thru the filter housing, so be prepaired for this. This is also an easy way to change the hyd oil, just let it drain into a container large enough to hold 3 or more quarts. All you will actually change is what oil is in the filter and the reservoir, about 2 1/2 to 3 quarts.
As for the engine oil drain, there should be a clear hose hanging down under the machine that is connected to the drain valve. The drain valve isn't removed when turned, it is a valve that opens and lets the oil drain out thru the hose into a drain pan sitting on the floor.
I use an oil withdrawal system which sucks the oil out thru a tube. The dipstick is removed and the tube is put into the dipstick tube to the bottom and sucks out the oil this way. The withdrawal system has a 6 quart capacity and a vacuum pump mounted on the top. The suction tube connects to the tank and is about 6 feet long. I also us it on my vehicles to change engine oil and transmission oil.
Small engine manufacturers have made design changes to their engines where the dipstick tube mounts into the oil base so the withdrawal tube can go all the way to the bottom of the oil base and withdraw the maximum amount of oil.
Mad Mackie in CT:biggrin::laughing:
 
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