New to me 2018 John Deere E100 throttle lever won’t move

[Tallhair]

I just bought this used mower yesterday. Has 57 hrs on it. I test drove it and checked it out. I noticed the stuck throttle but figured it was an adjustment issue.

It runs in high just fine and I cut my lawn today but can’t figure this throttle issue out. I disconnected the cable and the lever moves the cable without binding but it only has 1/2” of cable sticking out. The engine throttle moves freely when the cable is disconnected.

However when the cable is secured, not to tight, neither want to move. The lever is in the high position and won’t budge down to idle. It will move forward just enough for choke to start.

I’m wondering if the lever and cable assembly have been changed to an incorrect part, or if the cable was damaged and shortened. The seller said basically that’s just how it is. I’ve searched YouTube and other E100’s seem to have a normal range of throttle travel.

Any have this issue or can tell me how much cable you have sticking out of the cable housing/sheath?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Yep your assumption is correct , they have shortened the cable
Usually the inner is around 2" longer than the outer at the carb end with the dash end hooked up
If you are careful you can usually cut the outer shorter using a Dremel type tool without the entire cable becoming too short.
Not touched an E series to date but the throttle cable is shown as a complete unit with the dash lever @ $ 40
You many be able to replace just the bowden cable with a bit of fiddleing around.
I do it regularly because down here $ 100 ( Aus) for a new cable is not unusual & I can repace just the inner for $ 5 in parts and $ 30 in labour .
And for older models they are NLA ( JD excepted ) down here so have to be imported from the USA so there is $ 50 in shipping .
Thus , the Demel tool & cut off wheel which is a $ 20 repair if I can get away with it .

 

[Tallhair]

Good suggestion !

I was actually just perusing Amazon for a cheap length of cable to use to replace the inner cable. I’ll probably go this route, take the housing apart, and cut to fit.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Take the old one off fist and have a good look at the dash end
Some can be replaced easily while others have the lever moulded around then thus are not repairable.
There are 3 different diameters of inner wire & then there is the nylon lined inner or outer so look before you open the wallet

 

[Tallhair]

Take the old one off fist and have a good look at the dash end
Some can be replaced easily while others have the lever moulded around then thus are not repairable.
There are 3 different diameters of inner wire & then there is the nylon lined inner or outer so look before you open the wallet

Thanks Bert,

What are the 3 diameters?

And is there a usual use for each type? The 2 choke cables I already have we’re marketed as being for lawnmowers.

 

[Tallhair]

I measured the two choke cables and the throttle cable and all appear to be the same thickness of ~ 054.

 

[Tallhair]

If you are careful you can usually cut the outer shorter using a Dremel type tool without the entire cable becoming too short.

This might be an option also but the cable and housing are both extremely short. But if I can just cut the outer with enough length to clamp it, it may just work.

Im thinking something may have gone awry in the lever housing. I have to attempt to get a tube in one front tire and take all off to inspect bearings and spindles first though.

That might … tyre me out haha ?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks Bert,

What are the 3 diameters?

And is there a usual use for each type? The 2 choke cables I already have we’re marketed as being for lawnmowers.

In thou
≈ .062
≈ .058
≈ .040
The last is full hard stainless wire
The thicker ones are half hard zinc plated
A while back I did a Dixon which Husqvarna discontinued and it had the stainless wire
I had to go to my cable maker to get the wire from him as it was not a size my wholesalers distribute
I think it is actually metric 1mm wire and that cable used a nylon lined outer so the thicker zinc plated ones dragged way too much ,

 

[Tallhair]

i cleaned about half a bushel of grass and pecan shells off the deck, frame, and trans and took both back whee off yesterday. I cleaned and greased the axles and wheels. I was very happy the rears weren’t rust welded on like a friend of mines are. The hardest part was dragging my industrial jack out from under my car to raise the rear end.

I watch Taryl Fixes All so I know about the heat quench treatment but I don’t have an oxy-amphetamine torch haha.

i‘ll tackle the front wheels today and if the tube goes in the cracked tire easy enough I may get to the throttle.

 

[Tallhair]

Okay so the throttle thing was factory engineered to be that way.

Now it’s not. Full range of motion. As it should be IMHO.