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New Intek twin runs on one cylinder

#1

2

2000J25SP

I bought a brand new Briggs Intek twin 656cc 20hp. Swapped it onto my 1987 John Deere SX95 rear engine. Finally cranked it up today, and it runs rough and has no power. If I unplug one cylinder it makes no difference whatsoever. Swapped the spark plugs from one cylinder the the other and no difference. I guess I'll do a compression test tomorrow and go from there. Anyone have this problem before? Hopefully I'm overlooking something simple. Thanks


#2

B

bertsmobile1

Remove both of the kill wires on the coils and see if that makes any difference
'


#3

2

2000J25SP

Remove both of the kill wires on the coils and see if that makes any difference
'
I removed the kill wire going to the switch with no change. I can pull the top cover off tomorrow and try that. I suppose they could be grounded out on something.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

The till wire between the coils has a pair of diodes in it to prevent the coils interfearing with each other .
Common problem, I do about 10 of them a year .
If I have read what you have posted properly it runs on either cylinder but not on both .


#5

2

2000J25SP

The till wire between the coils has a pair of diodes in it to prevent the coils interfearing with each other .
Common problem, I do about 10 of
If I have read what you have posted properly it runs on either cylinder but not on both .
O
The till wire between the coils has a pair of diodes in it to prevent the coils interfearing with each other .
Common problem, I do about 10 of them a year .
If I have read what you have posted properly it runs on either cylinder but not on both .
Good to know, thank you I appreciate your help. Sorry I wasn't more clear, the rear cylinder fires, the front cylinder has never fired.


#6

B

bertsmobile1

OK.
That is a different story
Remove the rocker cover on the dead cylinder
Chances are the pushrod has fallen off so one of the valves is not working.
IF it is a newer engine, buy a pair of rocker cover gaskets and put one in after cleaning all of the silicon off ,


#7

B

boatmoter

I bought a brand new Briggs Intek twin 656cc 20hp. Swapped it onto my 1987 John Deere SX95 rear engine. Finally cranked it up today, and it runs rough and has no power. If I unplug one cylinder it makes no difference whatsoever. Swapped the spark plugs from one cylinder the the other and no difference. I guess I'll do a compression test tomorrow and go from there. Anyone have this problem before? Hopefully I'm overlooking something simple. Thanks
hook a volt meter or test light to the + & - of the coil not firing, run engine or just crank over,does it have a reading? if not,turn key on & check the + terminal on the coil to see if it has voltage


#8

B

bertsmobile1

Ignore the post from Boatmotor
it is for a Kettering ( battery ) ignition , not a magneto ignition


#9

StarTech

StarTech

If the engine is truely brand new you are working on voiding the warranty.


#10

B

boatmoter

Ignore the post from Boatmotor
it is for a Kettering ( battery ) ignition , not a magneto ignition
magneto ignition??? ever heard of a ignition system that's is fired by the ignition control module? power to the coil from ignition and the ignition control module grounds the coil to fire at the proper time


#11

StarTech

StarTech

magneto ignition??? ever heard of a ignition system that's is fired by the ignition control module? power to the coil from ignition and the ignition control module grounds the coil to fire at the proper time
What you got to realize is that you must know what you are posting about instead of just throwing something out there just to be posting. 99.9% of Briggs engine uses Magneto ignition coils. No external voltage is ever to be applied to them or the internal electronic triggers will be destroyed. Yes there still old points and condenser systems that out there but those are magneto systems on Briggs engines.

Please do your homework before posting and post correct useful info. And in this case the OP may have an Intek or Vanguard engine and we need the model and type numbers to lookup the engine to see how it is setup. And on top that it might be a EFI model vs carbureted model. We just don't have enough info to work with. Beside if it is a brand new the OP is voiding his warranty by working on it.


#12

B

bertsmobile1

magneto ignition??? ever heard of a ignition system that's is fired by the ignition control module? power to the coil from ignition and the ignition control module grounds the coil to fire at the proper time
I don't want to sound like I am picking on you because poster who are willing to help need to be encouraged
Cars run battery ignitions since around 1915
Mowers & some motorcycles run flywheel magneto ignitions .
Up until 1966 thesw were all controlled by points then Atom introduced their Hall Effect trigger which eliminated the points making these engines a lot more reliable ( and causing some overheating ) .
Husqvarna adopted then almost instantaneously , and Stihl follwed shortly after ( both had to increase cooling fins ) .
Mr Stratton who had sold out of B & S by then and owned OMG fitted them to his outboard engines as did Victa.Every one else waited till the patients expired in 1996 then they all introduced their own Hall effect triggers, originally as a stand alone box then the 50¢ control chip was potted into the coil and the coil went from being a $ 2 coil to a $ 40 module .
nearly all of them work on the negative side of the induction and the kill wire makes a ground contact to short out the trigger.
Applying anything over 2 mV to the kill wire blows the chip
Kohler & Kawasakai have ther engine manuals aviable as a free downoad off their web sites
Please download them and at least skim through them .


#13

S

smallenginerepairs

OK.
That is a different story
Remove the rocker cover on the dead cylinder
Chances are the pushrod has fallen off so one of the valves is not working.
IF it is a newer engine, buy a pair of rocker cover gaskets and put one in after cleaning all of the silicon off ,
More than likely on the dead cylinder one of the valve guides moved up on you and bent your push rod. I just changed a head on my neighbors john deere, that had that issue. It runs fine now. I hope this helps.


#14

grumpyunk

grumpyunk

If you have a warranty, call the support group and ask if they will swap out for another. You should not have to fiddle with a brand new engine. If you do not have warranty, get a spark tester and use it according to directions.
If one side tests good and the other does not, you have localized the problem(likely) to the ignition of the non-working cylinder. If both test good, check the valve operation. Could be clearance too tight, a pushrod that got popped out of position (shipping?) or something else.
I have yet to see an ignition system on small OPE that needs battery voltage to operate. Applying battery voltage to a magneto ignition will likely make it guaranteed to NOT work ever again.
tom


#15

C

Cajun power

If the engine is truely brand new you are working on voiding the warranty.
I agree..if this is a new machine with a warranty, get it serviced and repaired for free.

doing repairs will risk a warranty issue definitely.


#16

D

DinosaurMike

The first two sentences in the original post: I bought a brand new Briggs Intek twin 656cc 20hp. Swapped it onto my 1987 John Deere SX95 rear engine.
2000J25SP: Where did you buy the brand new engine? Did you contact the seller or Briggs about service or replacement? Why are you trying to fix it yourself? I am just curious, not being a jerk.
Mike


#17

grumpyunk

grumpyunk

If you have a warranty, call the support group and ask if they will swap out for another. You should not have to fiddle with a brand new engine.


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