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I have a T-3000 Craftsman mower with a 22 HP Briggs and Stratton Platinum engine. The mower is about 5 years old and the engine blew. Mowers are expensive so I wanted to just replace the engine. It seems like something in my skill set.

Can anyone help me order a new engine? I don’t care if it is an exact replacement (brand or 22 vs 18 HP) as long they fit or interchangeable.

I am confused because I found a sticker on the frame with model number 917249491 and Serial Number 100198T152793
I also found a stamp on the engine itself with a
Model 44R677
Type 0021G1
Code 150424YG

Thanks for any help.

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Current direct Briggs replacement is 44S977-0016-G1.

Crankshaft PTO specs: 1" x 3-5/32", 1/4" key, tapped 7/16-20

Of course you go with the Promo 44S977-0032-G1 which sells for considerably less.

StarTech said:

Current direct Briggs replacement is 44S977-0016-G1.

Crankshaft PTO specs: 1" x 3-5/32", 1/4" key, tapped 7/16-20

Of course you go with the Promo 44S977-0032-G1 which sells for considerably less.

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Thank you Star Tech. Man, these aren’t cheap engines. I will look up the Promo engine.

Yes it should work. Its the Promo engine I mentioned in my post. It just you might to do some minor rewiring.

I install Promotional engines over direct replacement for the same reason they are good engine but just what Briggs have the most of that they needing to move.

That site I looked up and posted might not have been a legit site, so I deleted that post. I will keep looking for alternatives. That 44S977-0032-G1 is still $1,100. I might just start looking for a good used mower.

Well here are some genuine examples
Star might even order you one in if you ask him on the forum ( he does not do pm's )
Otherwise a short list
or one of these
Or one of these but note only 3 of the really cheap ones left

Wow, thanks for all those options. I am not very knowledgeable on small engines, so I really just need to focus on the crankshaft PTO specs that Star mentioned in the first post? Several engines have those specs.
These prices certainly make it more reasonable for me to replace my engine and not the whole mower. Thanks

Hopefully they are all the same basic specs so should all fit , but I do make mistakes & it was just a quick search .
If I were opening my wallet then it would be the commercial B & S with the bigger better filter
But then again my wallet is not your wallet
Sticking with a 44 series engine means your current muffler should just swap over which is important as in most cases the muffler is part of the mower not the engine so they can cost up to $ 300 ,
You can ignore stuff like alternators because the mounting centers are the same on all of them so if the new engine is lower than yours then you can just swap them over .
Note they are all surplus , cancelled contracts & the like so there is a finite number of all of them , some are in the 1000's while others are in the 10's and the cheapest engines sell first because the backyarders who buy riders with blown engines, drop a new one in them then flog em off will naturally buy the cheapest engines
All of those sites have cheaper singles but the V twins are worth the extra cash and of course a single will need a new muffler .

And don't forget freight.
If you can get it delivered to a business address the freight is usually less because most freight goes business to business.

Lots of info, but each type/model should be accompanied by source and price.

Gord Baker said:

Lots of info, but each type/model should be accompanied by source and price.

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?

I replaced the engine in my 2005 LT1000 lawn tractor a few years ago. The new engine came with an oil filter, bolted right in, was the best decision for me.

Funny - I had starting issues for a couple of years on the original engine, even did the valve adjustment thing a few times; but the new engine has started right up and cranks/turns easier.

Man, I ordered the engine from surplus engines Monday night and UPS just dropped it off. Dang that was quick! I cant get to it today, but wish me luck. ?

DO NOT FORGET TO ADD THE OIL
Take the key out of the mower & tape it to the oil bottle

For mine, R&R of the new engine was straightforward. Absolutely don't forget to add oil !!!

As my new engine had an oil filter, I also made sure to order a spare. My engine takes
Oil filter 2.25 in. high, OD 3.0 inches 3/4" -16 Thread Size [Oregon 83-013 B&S 492932 or 492932S (short) Kohler 25-050-01 Tecumseh 36563]

I got the engine in. It went very smooth and the engine fit perfect and everything was able to be reused. I remembered to add the oil Bertsmoble1. I wrote down each step I took, and reversed the process for assembly. I have reviewed a couple videos about it, and I think I did it correct, but it won’t start. I drained the tank and put fresh gas in and nothing. I am at wits end at this point. I may have to take it to a pro.

OSmiss said:

it won’t start. I drained the tank and put fresh gas in and nothing.

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Did you try to spray some aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner or carb throat, then trying to start? Just may be needing this prime.

If that doesn't get it to start - even for a few seconds - with several tries, then you need to check for spark; for that, you might need a helper.

Start with the basics
The engine should be fine and one of the few things that you have to adjust is the throttle & choke .
Check that the choke is closing fully and the throttle is working .

If that is OK then a couple of other things to check

Get a 1/2" open ender , grind it a bit thin then remove the solenoid on the bottom of the carb
1) fuel should come out if the fuel pump is connected properly
2) the little plunger should pull in when you turn the mower on and pop back out when you turn it off .

Before you replace the solenoid pull the fuel line off the carb & crank the engine
You should see a strong fuel flow if the fuel pump is hooked up right

It’s running good. I went to a friends house that had a similar motor and looked at his throttle. I had the adjustment in the wrong whole. When I would set the choke it was closing it and vice versa. when I set it correctly it started right up. Yay!!!! Thank you for all your help, especially with the engine options Bertsmobile. The mower works great and I hope to get several more years out of it.

OSmiss said:

I have a T-3000 Craftsman mower with a 22 HP Briggs and Stratton Platinum engine. The mower is about 5 years old and the engine blew. Mowers are expensive so I wanted to just replace the engine. It seems like something in my skill set.

Can anyone help me order a new engine? I don’t care if it is an exact replacement (brand or 22 vs 18 HP) as long they fit or interchangeable.

I am confused because I found a sticker on the frame with model number 917249491 and Serial Number 100198T152793
I also found a stamp on the engine itself with a
Model 44R677
Type 0021G1
Code 150424YG

Thanks for any help.

.View attachment 59185View attachment 59186View attachment 59187View attachment 59188

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ok ive got a 18hp kawasaki used do you want it it runs like a top for 150 bucks

OSmiss said:

It’s running good. I went to a friends house that had a similar motor and looked at his throttle. I had the adjustment in the wrong whole. When I would set the choke it was closing it and vice versa. when I set it correctly it started right up. Yay!!!! Thank you for all your help, especially with the engine options Bertsmobile. The mower works great and I hope to get several more years out of it.

Click to expand...

GREAT !!! Thanks for posting the fix.
I had a choke issue on my own 2005 LT1000; I added a small spring from hardware store to fix that.