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My troybilt snowblower always ran great. Till last week refused to start. I put on new carb, huayi 170-s type and it ran awesome. For 1/2 hr. Shut it off and 3 hrs later it refuses to start. Dead again. New plug. New gas. Wtf? Ran super. Shutoff. Won't start. With new carb? Even put old carb on. Waste of time. New carb is back and it runs now at 1/2 throttle but won't go full speed. Is this a fuel issue? Good spark too.

Cavell said:

My troybilt snowblower always ran great. Till last week refused to start. I put on new carb, huayi 170-s type and it ran awesome. For 1/2 hr. Shut it off and 3 hrs later it refuses to start. Dead again. New plug. New gas. Wtf? Ran super. Shutoff. Won't start. With new carb? Even put old carb on. Waste of time. New carb is back and it runs now at 1/2 throttle but won't go full speed. Is this a fuel issue? Good spark too.

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:welcome: Troy Bilt made your snowblower but they did not make the engine so lets start with the basics.
What engine is in there ?
Next get an inline spark tester and hook it up to confirm you are getting a spark

Locate the governor lever , start the engine and move the lever by hand slowly to see if you can manually make the engine run full speed ( Don't over do it ).

Let us know how you go.

Has a 208cc power more motor. It's a chinaclone. Lowes special. It's not Briggs, not Tecumseh, it's the Honda clone special. Thought everyone was aware of these motors? Original carb is the huayi 170-s. The new carb is 89% identical but it has a adjustable mixture screw on side where the huayi has a plug. I did not touch this screw. Spark is nice and blue/hot. 2 days ago it started on 1st crank. Throttle lever works fine. Motor will run with no choke and will idle at "zero" lever position. Motor never would idle that low with old carb. So, it ran perfect for 1/2 hr. 1/2 speed, 3/4 speed, full speed. Shut it off and 3 hrs later it refuses to start. Wtf?

If possible put a small amount of gas into the intake and see if it will start and keep running or run and then die. If it has a primer can you see it push fuel into the carb venturi when pumped. Sounds like something is possible clogging the fuel jet in the carb, but could be related to other issues so let us know.

And people need to stop treating those chinese honda clone engines as there own separate item. If you have a briggs, honda, kohler, kawasaki engine then they are treated as a separate piece of equipment for repairs, the Loncin, Rato, Power more, and some of the LCT engines are part of the piece of equipment and parts are sold thought the equipment manufacturer and not the engine manufacturer. The powermore engine is a MTD engine, the LCT on a Husqvarna product is a Husqvarna engine, a Loncin engine on a Toro is a Toro engine. The Loncin or Rato on a Generac is a Generac engine.

i put the old carb back on as it is not real hard. it sorta started and backfired and popped and really did not like it. so, i put the new carb back on and i think i figured out throttle needs to be at 1/2 speed appx and it will start/run. no choke. it ran ok enough to let me blow out the driveway again but anytime i tried to increase throttle to 3/4 or higher it would stumble and bog down. seemed to run ok at 1/2 throttle. but it wont throw snow very far. each time i change carbs i have to drain what little fuel is in tank. so i have filled/drained tank about 5 times. maybe its the gas now as i am doing this in open garage and it was snowing and maybe the gas is water contaminated now? i am going to drain the tank again and dump out the gas can and get fresh fuel from another station. i can get non-oxy gas but i dont see how E-10 would affect a brand new carb.
i do see a bit of blackish smoke when the unit is running. too rich? should the mixture screw on side need adjustment as it is new? how many turns in is it set too now? 1-1/2?

Screw on side should be for idle speed. Can have some effect on high speed load, but not much. If you try to go above 1/2 throttle, does is just bog down like it is running out of fuel, or does it start to blow black smoke out the muffler like it is too rich. Sounds like a carb issue, but other things can also effect running, Like a flywheel key partially sheared effecting timing, or a valve that is out of adjustment.

I wonder if the screw on the side might be some sort of mixture or atm. adjustment. Wouldn't hurt to tinker with that. Screw it in and see how many turns it takes to bottom out so you can reset it. Then open to that setting and give it 1/2 turn or so more. Really sounds like a piece of dirt in the main jet though. A picture of the carb would help some here.

this is ebay pic and i just noticed there is a plug in the pic where i have a screw. they dont even send the actual carb that is in their ad. thats funny. i did remove the main jet and it is spotless. its new, why not? hole is open. i drilled out my jet on old carb 2 yrs ago and it runs the same as before. i think the new jet is #74-75? certainly smaller than my old jet is.
this is pic of my old carb. the huayi model. you can see the plug on the left side. my screw has a tension spring also for the screw.
pic shows my magic tool box. i am kinda a mad scientist. i work on various auto projects all the time. yes i know the float bowl is askew. i removed it and reseated it properly

tom3 said:

I wonder if the screw on the side might be some sort of mixture or atm. adjustment. Wouldn't hurt to tinker with that. Screw it in and see how many turns it takes to bottom out so you can reset it. Then open to that setting and give it 1/2 turn or so more. Really sounds like a piece of dirt in the main jet though. A picture of the carb would help some here.

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Need to be very careful about adjusting some of those screws on the side. On some carbs they are designed to break off if somebody attempts to turn them. The picture posted in the post after yours shows a picture of the carb of the type of carb that he is using, and the adjustment screw is broken off in the picture.

ILENGINE said:

Need to be very careful about adjusting some of those screws on the side. On some carbs they are designed to break off if somebody attempts to turn them. The picture posted in the post after yours shows a picture of the carb of the type of carb that he is using, and the adjustment screw is broken off in the picture.

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Hey IL Engine ........ I don't see a broken screw on his carb ....... Unless you are talking about the black idle screw on top holding down the idle port jet......

That's another thing that should come out and get a damn good cleaning.... As much as sneaux blowers set up the idle jets get gummed up and sometimes the only way to get em right is to take a thumb bit and ream it out ........

Plus Tard ............

Cavell said:

View attachment 42939
this is ebay pic and i just noticed there is a plug in the pic where i have a screw. they dont even send the actual carb that is in their ad. thats funny. i did remove the main jet and it is spotless. its new, why not? hole is open. i drilled out my jet on old carb 2 yrs ago and it runs the same as before. i think the new jet is #74-75? certainly smaller than my old jet is.View attachment 42940
this is pic of my old carb. the huayi model. you can see the plug on the left side. my screw has a tension spring also for the screw.
pic shows my magic tool box. i am kinda a mad scientist. i work on various auto projects all the time. yes i know the float bowl is askew. i removed it and reseated it properly

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There is no such thing as scrap from Chinese factories.
So the carbs that one customer rejects for being defective gets sold to another customer.
Eventually all of these end up being sold to people who are too cheap for their own good by retailers who pedal rubbish to people via Ebay & Amazon.
SHowing a photo of a different carb to the one they are selling should be a good clue as to the integrity of the vendor.
GO back to their ebay shop and hit the "other items" link.
If you see 10,000 products from condoms through to truck gearboxes then you have been sucked in by a defective product retailer.
Go back and give them some negative feed back

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Hey IL Engine ........ I don't see a broken screw on his carb ....... Unless you are talking about the black idle screw on top holding down the idle port jet......

That's another thing that should come out and get a damn good cleaning.... As much as sneaux blowers set up the idle jets get gummed up and sometimes the only way to get em right is to take a thumb bit and ream it out ........

Plus Tard ............

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The idle screw is broken off Bou.
Look between the mounting flange lugs.

fyi when i ran motor 2 days ago i did notice a little blackish exhaust at idle
where my old carb never seemed to do that.
maybe new carb is just too rich for this motor?
new jet is smaller than jet in old carb. new carb should be leaner?
why did the motor run perfect for 1/2 hr with new carb?
this is a pic i found that shows the screw on the left that i have
and now runs so-so and seems to be running rich?

Don’t know if you have checked to see if the idle jet is open in both directions. The idle jet is located under the idle speed screw, which is the screw with the D slot. Remove this screw and then pry up on the black plastic jet housing. The size of this jet should be approximately .017 inches. If it is to big, could be the cause of rich mixture and if to small or clogged, could be the cause of hard starting.

i did remove the idle jet on the old carb and i dont recall it being .017 in size. is this port aligned in any direction or does the fuel actually flow around the body? i have never seen any info that says this jet needs to be aligned east-west or north south so i assume not

There is a horizontal hole through the jet body and a vertical hole going up, which is the actual jet, and should be about .017. Can only be installed one way, when fully seated. I have found this jet will clog when fuel is allowed to sit n the carb for an extended period of time.

The pilot mixture screw was turned out 4+ turns. I set it to 2 turns and motor started on 1st crank. After I adjusted the plastic spacer cover

found this similar motor on CL. $95. has good recoil. my recoil is broke and costs $25