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New bronco owner with maintenance questions
#1
M
Mikewithbronco
M
Mikewithbronco
Well I just picked up a brand new Bronco riding mower 42 inch from Lowes. I mowed the lawn once so far and it ran great. Much better than a push mower. I've read the manual several times and in my opinion it lacks a lot of information. I'm pretty handy I believe but I hate guessing when it comes to properly maintaining things. In the manual, it says lube pedal pivot points. What is recommended? WD40 or that thick grease stuff? Or that spray white lithium grease? Same thing with lube front axle and rims. First off, how do you lube a rim? I don't understand what they mean about putting lube on a rim. And again, where exactly do I lube the front axle and what product do I use? Also says to reoil the air filter precleaner. I assume lowes sells air cleaner oil? Sorry if these sound like dumb questions but I want to make sure I maintain this so it lasts me trouble free for many years (I hope). Also, are there any other tips not mentioned in the manual? Thank you!
#2
Lawnboy18
Lawnboy18
With model number and serial number I could help you better. I've read a Troy-Bilt Bronco user manual. For greasing, use a grease gun and plug it in the zurk (tit) and pump away. For the wheels, it says to remove them and grease the axle and bushings. I would use white litium grease for that.
#3
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Always a problem translating Chineese into english.
Basically everything that mooves needs to be lubed.
However because a mower works in such a dusty enviroment, this lube needs to be dry so it does not pick up dirt and becone a grinding paste.
So I always use white lithium grease.
Get the joint to open up as far as it will and push the plastic tube on the can as hard agains the joint as possible so you blast the grease into the crevases.
Don't be stingy. I get about 10 to 15 mowers out of a can.
Cables get treated to Tri-Lube which comes from a push bike shop for lubing gear change cables.
Again not cheap but a tiny 2oz bottle lasts about 2 years & I do well over 50 motorcycle each year.
The steering pins ( bits that rotate to allow the wheels to go left & right are generally a plain bush and need to be greased .
So there should be a grease nipple there.
The wheels themselves ( oft refferred to as rims) generally have a grease nipple that leaks like a seive to grease the front axels so I take the wheel off to grease the axel.
Most now days use a sealed ball bering so greasing does little apart from filling the void with grease to prevent water ingression, thus a wipe of grease will be fine to prevent rust.
The rear wheels need to come off at least every 2 years and a thin wipe of grease applied to the axels, to prevent them rusting solid onto the axel shafts.
If you want to use this mower for more than 3 years pay particular attention the all the steering linkages as in order to make the mower as cheap as possible there are no proper tie rod ends used anywhere so all the holes in the steering linkages will flog out oval in a season or two.
Pay attention to the bush at the bottom of the steering wheel shaft, hard to get at, rarely lubed and expensive to replace ( because it is hard to get at).
Don't forget the vari drive linkages under the seat and the brake .
Keep the WD 40 for your cars distributor, tools that you leave out overnight, testing for intake leaks and light penetrating duties.
It is not and never has been a lubricant. It is a good wetting agent and penetrant so gets into dry joints to free them up so they start moving again, then evaporates completely thus requiring more WD 40.
The bushes on the steering pins may well be nylon . WD 40 attacks nylon and makes it swell , which is why you never put it on any control cable, just in case the cable has a nylon linner.
I drain the fuel tank remove the battery & deck then stand the mower on its bum to do the underside lubing, it is a lot easier, faster and you will not miss anything doing it this way.
While up in the air get your leaf blower and blast all the accumulated debris from under the chassis. Compressed air and a long duster gun is a lot better if you have a home compressor.
Basically everything that mooves needs to be lubed.
However because a mower works in such a dusty enviroment, this lube needs to be dry so it does not pick up dirt and becone a grinding paste.
So I always use white lithium grease.
Get the joint to open up as far as it will and push the plastic tube on the can as hard agains the joint as possible so you blast the grease into the crevases.
Don't be stingy. I get about 10 to 15 mowers out of a can.
Cables get treated to Tri-Lube which comes from a push bike shop for lubing gear change cables.
Again not cheap but a tiny 2oz bottle lasts about 2 years & I do well over 50 motorcycle each year.
The steering pins ( bits that rotate to allow the wheels to go left & right are generally a plain bush and need to be greased .
So there should be a grease nipple there.
The wheels themselves ( oft refferred to as rims) generally have a grease nipple that leaks like a seive to grease the front axels so I take the wheel off to grease the axel.
Most now days use a sealed ball bering so greasing does little apart from filling the void with grease to prevent water ingression, thus a wipe of grease will be fine to prevent rust.
The rear wheels need to come off at least every 2 years and a thin wipe of grease applied to the axels, to prevent them rusting solid onto the axel shafts.
If you want to use this mower for more than 3 years pay particular attention the all the steering linkages as in order to make the mower as cheap as possible there are no proper tie rod ends used anywhere so all the holes in the steering linkages will flog out oval in a season or two.
Pay attention to the bush at the bottom of the steering wheel shaft, hard to get at, rarely lubed and expensive to replace ( because it is hard to get at).
Don't forget the vari drive linkages under the seat and the brake .
Keep the WD 40 for your cars distributor, tools that you leave out overnight, testing for intake leaks and light penetrating duties.
It is not and never has been a lubricant. It is a good wetting agent and penetrant so gets into dry joints to free them up so they start moving again, then evaporates completely thus requiring more WD 40.
The bushes on the steering pins may well be nylon . WD 40 attacks nylon and makes it swell , which is why you never put it on any control cable, just in case the cable has a nylon linner.
I drain the fuel tank remove the battery & deck then stand the mower on its bum to do the underside lubing, it is a lot easier, faster and you will not miss anything doing it this way.
While up in the air get your leaf blower and blast all the accumulated debris from under the chassis. Compressed air and a long duster gun is a lot better if you have a home compressor.
#4
M
Mikewithbronco
The model number is 13WV78KS011. Thanks for the reply. How do you know you've put enough grease into it?
M
Mikewithbronco
With model number and serial number I could help you better. I've read a Troy-Bilt Bronco user manual. For greasing, use a grease gun and plug it in the zurk (tit) and pump away. For the wheels, it says to remove them and grease the axle and bushings. I would use white litium grease for that.
The model number is 13WV78KS011. Thanks for the reply. How do you know you've put enough grease into it?
#5
M
Mikewithbronco
A lot of good tips. Thank you so much
M
Mikewithbronco
Always a problem translating Chineese into english.
Basically everything that mooves needs to be lubed.
However because a mower works in such a dusty enviroment, this lube needs to be dry so it does not pick up dirt and becone a grinding paste.
So I always use white lithium grease.
Get the joint to open up as far as it will and push the plastic tube on the can as hard agains the joint as possible so you blast the grease into the crevases.
Don't be stingy. I get about 10 to 15 mowers out of a can.
Cables get treated to Tri-Lube which comes from a push bike shop for lubing gear change cables.
Again not cheap but a tiny 2oz bottle lasts about 2 years & I do well over 50 motorcycle each year.
The steering pins ( bits that rotate to allow the wheels to go left & right are generally a plain bush and need to be greased .
So there should be a grease nipple there.
The wheels themselves ( oft refferred to as rims) generally have a grease nipple that leaks like a seive to grease the front axels so I take the wheel off to grease the axel.
Most now days use a sealed ball bering so greasing does little apart from filling the void with grease to prevent water ingression, thus a wipe of grease will be fine to prevent rust.
The rear wheels need to come off at least every 2 years and a thin wipe of grease applied to the axels, to prevent them rusting solid onto the axel shafts.
If you want to use this mower for more than 3 years pay particular attention the all the steering linkages as in order to make the mower as cheap as possible there are no proper tie rod ends used anywhere so all the holes in the steering linkages will flog out oval in a season or two.
Pay attention to the bush at the bottom of the steering wheel shaft, hard to get at, rarely lubed and expensive to replace ( because it is hard to get at).
Don't forget the vari drive linkages under the seat and the brake .
Keep the WD 40 for your cars distributor, tools that you leave out overnight, testing for intake leaks and light penetrating duties.
It is not and never has been a lubricant. It is a good wetting agent and penetrant so gets into dry joints to free them up so they start moving again, then evaporates completely thus requiring more WD 40.
The bushes on the steering pins may well be nylon . WD 40 attacks nylon and makes it swell , which is why you never put it on any control cable, just in case the cable has a nylon linner.
I drain the fuel tank remove the battery & deck then stand the mower on its bum to do the underside lubing, it is a lot easier, faster and you will not miss anything doing it this way.
While up in the air get your leaf blower and blast all the accumulated debris from under the chassis. Compressed air and a long duster gun is a lot better if you have a home compressor.
A lot of good tips. Thank you so much
#6
Lawnboy18
No problem. When it starts oozing out.
Lawnboy18
The model number is 13WV78KS011. Thanks for the reply. How do you know you've put enough grease into it?
No problem. When it starts oozing out.
#7
B
bertsmobile1
After jacking it up so he wheels are not touching the ground.
Goes for any grease point, you need to have it in a no load situation so the grease can get between the pars that normally rub on each other.
B
bertsmobile1
No problem. When it starts oozing out.
After jacking it up so he wheels are not touching the ground.
Goes for any grease point, you need to have it in a no load situation so the grease can get between the pars that normally rub on each other.
#8
Lawnboy18
Good point!
Lawnboy18
After jacking it up so he wheels are not touching the ground.
Goes for any grease point, you need to have it in a no load situation so the grease can get between the pars that normally rub on each other.
Good point!