No the blade bolt did not come loose. It was secure when I removed the blade. The blade adapter turn about 1/3rd the way around the crank shearing the crank before the adapter broke.
Had that happen on a Bolens push mower 2 years ago. B&S use to be really good and something you can rely on, now they just suck. I have no patience when it comes to working on the newer motors, I remember the older B&S motors being so simple to work on....... back in the day
#14
pugaltitude
Surely its an end user fault or OEM fault and not the engine manufacturers fault.
If grass is the only thing cut then this wouldnt happen.
Grass was the only thing cut Bahia tp be precise, and it wasn't the users fault because I know who was using it. There is no way a shear pin should do that to a crank, It was just a poorly built engine by the manufacturer B&S
Grass was the only thing cut Bahia tp be precise, and it wasn't the users fault because I know who was using it. There is no way a shear pin should do that to a crank, It was just a poorly built engine by the manufacturer B&S
Like I said before I know who has used the unit and there the only one that has used the unit all season long, the blade was not bent from hitting anything when I removed it and regardless of whether they hit anything our not the shear pin should have went before the destruction of the crank. so that tells me it's just another piece of shabby poor quality workmanship and piece of equipment from Briggs and Statton and doesn't have anything to do with the person using the mower.
Is there anyway you can weld it on permanently? The bolt should still allow for blade removal?
#19
bt3
about 20 years ago I interviewed for a job with Snapper.
At the interview, the hiring manager told me that he used to work for Briggs and Stratton. He asked me, "Do you own a Snapper?"
I proudly said, "Why, yes I do."
He asked, "What do you like about it?"
I replied, "i like the quality, especially of the engine, and the fact that it starts on the first pull."
He shook his head and said, "It cant be a Briggs and Stratton engine."
I said, "Nope. It's a Wisconsin Robin."
The guy responded, "You are lucky. That's a good engine. I knew you weren't talking about a Briggs engine when you said quality."
I have no dog in this fight. I have no B&S engine either on anything I own. Never did as far as I can remember. Too bad. When I was a kid, I seem to recall B&S being a great company.
Considering what it is I'm not going to waste my time trying to fix the thing, it would cost more than what it's worth. It does run but that's about its extent. The problem is if I took it to the shop to be fixed, for the cost of the labor and new crank I could buy another mower. I have a CC 98H that has the same deck and wheels so I'll just strip what parts I need and trash the rest or better yet maybe I'll just remove the B&S engine and trash it and keep the rest.
If it could be welded, that wouldn't be that much labor. I am just not sure about the whole "welding to cast" and if it's possible. It appears that bracket is made out of cast. The crank is not cast, at least I don't think so.
Or have a machine shop create a bracket for you out of solid steel to mimic the cast one, then you would have no problems welding them together.
At least check on the pricing. It might not be too bad.
Do you work at a facility that has a maintenance shop? Perhaps they might be able to help you as well (when you aren't on the clock, of course!)
#22
exotion
Drop a kawi fj180 on it you obviously like the machine stick a good commercial engine on it and it'll last forever
I do like the Turf Master and the Kawasaki engine, I think there the best on the market but I wouldn't want the older model heavy duty model FJ180, I would get the new model or the Commercial KAI and I wouldn't use this deck. If I keep the deck it will be for parts only.