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Just had a new engine installed in this unit, and it runs like a champ. Just noticed that the shop did not re-install the wire supplying power to the headlights. It's a small thing, I know, and, having owned this mower since 1987, I believe I've had occasion to use the lights three times. Still, if I can get them to work, it would be nice. The two headlights have a wire that runs between them and are grounded on one side. The "post" where the wire supplying power is empty. I've done a bit of reading, and am guessing that these lights draw power from some connection to the engine, not directly to the battery. I cannot remember if they operated only when the engine ran or if they could be switched on when the starter was simply switched to the on position or even when it was off. There is an "open" plug reeptical down near the oil drain plub that has a yellow wire and a red wire running from it. There is a yellow wire that runs from the light switch, but I have not been able to tell where it goes. The red wire has been cut. I have included a link to four photos that show the above. Note that the red wire coming from the "open" plug looks as though it turns from red to blue, but that is just an optical illusion. Where the red color stops is where the wire is cut.

Any advice much appreciated.


Caruso

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers for your engine, that way we can see which charging system you have. I’m guessing a Tri-Circuit system but want to make sure so I don’t tell you to hook it up wrong. This manual will also help you out. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/c...a/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

You have quite an oldie there.
Put up a pic of the back side of your keyswitch, you likely have a terminal to use there.

Rivets said:

Please provide us with the model and serial numbers for your engine, that way we can see which charging system you have. I’m guessing a Tri-Circuit system but want to make sure so I don’t tell you to hook it up wrong. This manual will also help you out. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/c...a/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

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Model number is shown in my topic title, but here it is: 13607-7. Interesting that my user manual states that it applies to two models, the 13565-7 and the 13607-7 11 and 12 HP Lawn Tractors. The engine supplied with my unit was 12.5 HP which I assumed was the 13607-7, however the cutting deck supplied did not include adjustable deck wheel height adjuster wheels which would indicate that the deck is for a d13565- model. The shop that replaced my engine supplied an 11.5 HP unit. It runs and performs fine, so, I'm not complaining over 1 or perhaps 1/2 HP. I won this unit in a sales contest, so, until the recent engine replacement, had exactly zerio dollars invested. Not a bad investment for 33 years, I think.

I had previously jotted down what I believe was the serial number, although I do not remember where I located it on the machine. Try: 9683308. If that looks suspicious, tell me where to look on the unit for the serial number and I will double check it.

Thanks for your reply.

Caruso

Fish said:

You have quite an oldie there.
Put up a pic of the back side of your keyswitch, you likely have a terminal to use there.

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Follow the link for the photo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/y6i6kwuhynab4oz/DSC07831.JPG?dl=0

She is an oldie, but a goodie. I always appreciated this unit for what I considered to be its simple, but clever deck discharge design. I've described it in previous threads as a 42" deck, but, looking at it just now, I see that it is a 40" deck. What I always loved about it was its two-sided discharge. To bag grass (or leaves), you just hooked two large containers on the back, one to collect from each side. Discharged grass/leaves were forced up a relatively narrow square shaped chute and into the collection bag. The chute protrudes but 5" from the fender on each side of the mower, and the two collection bags add only 24" to the total length of the unit. I always considered this rather compact compared to some of the other setups on the market. Unless grass/leaves were exceptionally wet, the system always worked fine. Here is a photo of the setup: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5xrtv25bxvk1o69/DSC07833.JPG?dl=0

I have the rubber coverings for the 'footrests', but they never stay in place. I'm thinking of either running without coverings or applying some non-skid glue-on material. Sorry to run off-topic.

Thanks for your reply.

Caruso

Is that the light switch right beside the keyswitch?
Can we assume that the new engine wiring is recharging the battery? It would take a long while for a good battery to wear down, unless you had a load/drain other than cranking.
Pull off the plug and look at the terminals, or right beside them on the plastic, and you should see the wiring schematic/letters, S=starter, M=magneto, G=ground, etc..

Here is the wiring for the mtd 13607.

Fish said:

Is that the light switch right beside the keyswitch?
Can we assume that the new engine wiring is recharging the battery? It would take a long while for a good battery to wear down, unless you had a load/drain other than cranking.
Pull off the plug and look at the terminals, or right beside them on the plastic, and you should see the wiring schematic/letters, S=starter, M=magneto, G=ground, etc..

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Yes. As you look at the photo, the light switch is just to the right of the key switch. The battery is being charged as the engine runs. In addition to the key switch and light switch, there is an ampere meter which indicates charging activity when the engine runs.
What is your take on the empty plug down next to the oil drain plug?
Thanks for your reply.
Caruso

The alt wires coming out of the new engine usually are different than the one you are replacing, so some improvising is usually needed. If your new setup is charging ok, just run a wire from the fuse,or run a wire and fuse from the hot post on the solenoid to your light switch and that will do it.

Or when the key is turned to "run", the "L" post should be hot.

Fish said:

The alt wires coming out of the new engine usually are different than the one you are replacing, so some improvising is usually needed. If your new setup is charging ok, just run a wire from the fuse,or run a wire and fuse from the hot post on the solenoid to your light switch and that will do it.

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Duh, uh, the solenoid. Where would that be located, and which post on the light switch? Sorry, I am pretty green about these matters.
Thanks.

Caruso

Fish said:

Or when the key is turned to "run", the "L" post should be hot.
View attachment 54567

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Thanks, will check this out.
Caruso

Follow the red battery cable to the solenoid.

One big cable goes to the battery, the other to the starter. The hot wire is also attached at the battery cable side, to power the keyswitch and so on.