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Need Re-wiring Help

#1

S

sano888

Put a clone engine on a rear engine Snapper for my sister's friend. Small engine instructor at the local career tech ok'd my wiring (see diagram). Mower started and ran. Now it won't start. Did I do it wrong? I am a novice. Speak slowly when replying. No big words. Thanks.

clone wiring 1.jpg.pngclone wiring 2.jpg


#2

B

bertsmobile1

We really need to see some photos.
Check the fuse
What does the engine do when you turn the key ?
What make & model engine did you fit ?
A photo of the wires coming out of the engine going to the plug that connects to the motor would also be benificial.


#3

S

sano888

I gave the mower back so no photos available.
She told me engine is dead. Gets no response when she turns the key.
No engine make or model as it is a clone engine. Mower is a Series 9 RER Snapper.
Diagram shows exactly how I wired it with where I connected wires.


#4

S

sano888

Could the fuel solenoid be draining the battery since it would be always on? If I move the fuel solenoid to the other side of the starter solenoid, would that cause a problem?


#5

B

bertsmobile1

Yes it will drain the battery so low that it is not able to be recharged
It can also burn out the windings in the coil as there is neither fuel flowing through the carb nor air blowing down the side to cool it .
The solenoid goes to a terminal that is powered when the key is on.
Usually marked with an A or L on the back of the switch .


#6

S

sano888

bertsmobile1 said:
Yes it will drain the battery so low that it is not able to be recharged
It can also burn out the windings in the coil as there is neither fuel flowing through the carb nor air blowing down the side to cool it .
The solenoid goes to a terminal that is powered when the key is on.
Usually marked with an A or L on the back of the switch .
Click to expand...
So should I move the fuel solenoid from the positive side of the starter solenoid to the switched side of the starter solenoid?


#7

B

bertsmobile1

No
The fuel solenoid wire must go onto the key switch to a terminal that goes to battery voltage when the key is on and no voltage when the key is off .


#8

StarTech

StarTech

Kinda sounds like the small engine instructor needs to go back to school...But of course I know of many small engine/lawn mower shops that have no knowledge of how the electrical systems even work. Just a major embarrassment to whole industry as they should know this in order to repair the equipment.

It doesn't matter if your in business of repair if you are repairing lawn equipment, vehicles, office equipment, or financial equipment. You must be able to repair both the mechanical, electrical, and electronics nowadays. When it the electrical and electronics you must understand how things are configured too.


#9

B

bertsmobile1

Well I was sort of suspect when he posted a loom illustration as a circuit diagram but who am I to make comment.

A riding friend & myself have a little side line for British bikes called IP wiring
He is a computer nerd but the IP stands for Idiot Proof
To date it seems to be holding.

It is a terrible enditement of the education system that so many people who have graduated can not follow a dead simple circuit as found on ride on mowers.
I mean it is the stuff a 16 year old apprentence is supposed to pick up in a week.
And the circuits we had to resolve when I was a high school back in the 60's were far more complicated than any mower I have come across .


#10

S

sano888

bertsmobile1 said:
No
The fuel solenoid wire must go onto the key switch to a terminal that goes to battery voltage when the key is on and no voltage when the key is off .
Click to expand...
Like I said, I'm doing this to help my sister's friend and am learning a lot plus it's fun to work on stuff. But I am an amateur with no training and with knowledge only through experience (obviously none on wiring systems). I've posted the info I was able to dig up on my own. I'm reaching out to experts for help. Do I move the fuel solenoid to the wire that goes to the starter solenoid from the key switch? How should I re-wire it?


#11

S

sano888

bertsmobile1 said:
Well I was sort of suspect when he posted a loom illustration as a circuit diagram but who am I to make comment.

A riding friend & myself have a little side line for British bikes called IP wiring
He is a computer nerd but the IP stands for Idiot Proof
To date it seems to be holding.

It is a terrible enditement of the education system that so many people who have graduated can not follow a dead simple circuit as found on ride on mowers.
I mean it is the stuff a 16 year old apprentence is supposed to pick up in a week.
And the circuits we had to resolve when I was a high school back in the 60's were far more complicated than any mower I have come across .
Click to expand...
Can you make a suggestion on what I should be doing differently? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


#12

S

sano888

bertsmobile1 said:
No
The fuel solenoid wire must go onto the key switch to a terminal that goes to battery voltage when the key is on and no voltage when the key is off .
Click to expand...
Went back and reread your post. Looks like I need a new key switch with more than three posts. Correct?


#13

B

bertsmobile1

Correct,
You need to have a switched power in & power out plus a magneto & ground which are connected when the engine is off to kill the spark.
You can just pop a std toggle on - off switch and connect the fuel solenoid to it, however she will have to remember to turn it off or she will be spending a fortune on new batteries.
We do not get snappers down here or if we do they were rebadged with a local brand name so I have no idea how Snappers are wired .
However all mowers have the same basic wiring some with slight variations like slipping in a relay.
When you said your small engine repair teacher OKed your wiring we naturally assumed that you knew how the wiring works .

If you had just said what engine you were putting into which model Snapper then the techs with access to Snapper wiring diagrams would have posted one or a link to where you can get one for yourself .

Briggs & Stratton put out a nice book called "The Alternator Repower Guide " , it is a bit dated now days but as previously mentioned mower wiring is simple and does not change that much .
Download a copy and in the mean time find out what model Snapper she has so those with more knowledge that me can jump in .


#14

S

sano888

bertsmobile1 said:
Correct,
You need to have a switched power in & power out plus a magneto & ground which are connected when the engine is off to kill the spark.
You can just pop a std toggle on - off switch and connect the fuel solenoid to it, however she will have to remember to turn it off or she will be spending a fortune on new batteries.
We do not get snappers down here or if we do they were rebadged with a local brand name so I have no idea how Snappers are wired .
However all mowers have the same basic wiring some with slight variations like slipping in a relay.
When you said your small engine repair teacher OKed your wiring we naturally assumed that you knew how the wiring works .

If you had just said what engine you were putting into which model Snapper then the techs with access to Snapper wiring diagrams would have posted one or a link to where you can get one for yourself .

Briggs & Stratton put out a nice book called "The Alternator Repower Guide " , it is a bit dated now days but as previously mentioned mower wiring is simple and does not change that much .
Download a copy and in the mean time find out what model Snapper she has so those with more knowledge that me can jump in .
Click to expand...
Thank you for the advice. I do not know the instructor. I just took a chance at calling the local career tech school to see if I could get some help. I'll look into the toggle switch.


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