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I have an old Craftsman mower, Eager 1, in my garage that has not been started for years. I changed the oil and added gasoline,and the carburetor leaked all over. Clearly the carb could use replacement. I don't have the old manual, but I noted the model number, which is: 917.372852 .

I looked online for old manuals, and the nearest one I could find was for Craftsman model number: 917.372850 . The online manual said that the carburetor was a Tecumseh and the model number is: 632681. Looking at the online pics of the carburetor, it does seem to resemble the one presently on the lawnmower. Before I order it, however, I was just wondering if that difference in the model numbers between my lawnmower and the closest version of the manual I could find online could possibly make a difference. Anyone out there with experience in these old mowers? Any help is greatly appreciated.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...elNumber=917372852&diagramPageId=&documentId=

see pages 23 & 24 in parts manual, https://www.google.com/search?espv=....1.64.serp..0.2.198...35i39j30i10.l--_ASwW-2M

https://www.amazon.com/Tecumseh-CARBURETOR-632733-632681-632678/dp/B00LX9S2DE look like your carburetor?

It certainly does look like it. Much thanks. I'll order that today.

This forum is great. :smile:

Okay, the carburetor came yesterday. Everything looks nice. I have put replacement carburetors on automotive engines sometime back, but never a small engine like this. My question is, when putting a carburetor on an auto, I always used some blue silicone sealant, which worked fine. Does a small engine like this require that? Or can you just bolt the carburetor onto the engine using just the dry, untreated gasket and get good results?

Just untreated gasket, make sure all surfaces are clean.

Thanks again. Will do.

Alas, things are not going well. I got the carburetor and either it didn't come with a gasket for the intake pipe or I somehow misplaced it on the garage floor. I made another one but it was not the required 1/16" thickness and the carburetor body ended up rubbing against the outside of the engine. I got some 1/16" intake gasket material, cut the gasket, and it seated right. Putting the parts back that I had to take off I had to take off to remove the carb and intake pipe, one of which was the oil filler pipe, I was surprised it didn't screw in, just set in with a gasket. Had all kinds of trouble getting the linkage right for the throttle, think I got it right now. I put down the project during the heat wave, by the way, I haven't been working on this every day or anything.

Finally I got things right and got the mower, (which hadn't been used in ten years, yes I changed the oil), running for a few seconds. Figured it needed a little more tuneup to go, went inside to take a break before starting that. A few hours later I thought I would start it again, saw a pool of oil on the garage floor. It didn't seem to be coming from the oil filler pipe, so far as I could see.

I should point out that I only planned to use this old mower for a small patch of the yard that I'm working on temporarily, I have an arrangement with a friend to cut the rest of the yard. I figured I would ask if there is anyway the oil can be coming out that does not require some sort of major repair? These old mowers are routinely available for cheap at yard sales, etc, because the owner bought a new riding mower. Before I check out the local yard sales this weekend, (the small amount of time I'm going to be using this makes buying a new one uneconomical), is there anyway to save it?

Check the level of the fuel in the fuel tank and the level of the oil in the sump.
Unless you have thrown a rod through the cases the only place oil can come out without the engine running is the dip stick tube, drain plug lower crankshaft seal or exhaust

The mower did not leak overnight, apparently the leakage I saw was from the few seconds the mower was running. Examining the mower today, I noticed there was an oil slick from the top of the engine compartment going down to where the oil filler opening is-which opening is supposed to be covered by the oil filler tube. Running the mower, (I got it going for more than a few seconds by adjusting the screw on the bottom of the half-dome carburetor bowl), I saw what looked like oil running down from the top into the base of the oil filler base, but which I think is more than likely oil being forced UP out of the oil filler base and hitting the side of the engine body. I thought that oil filter tube and base setup looked like it had to be leaky-it is. Oh yes, there also seemed to be an oily spot under the muffler, though the issue seems nowhere near as bad.

Is there some trick I'm missing about fitting in the oil filler cylinder to the base? You would think it would be a screw in, but it looks like just a fit in with cylinder having a rubber gasket on and then pushing it into the hole at the base. No "lock" sound or anything. The oil filler tube has a flange at the top that a screw fixes to the cowling. I am very appreciative of the advice you've given, by the way.

The tube pushes into a rubber grommet.
The grommet is threaded the same as a short dip stick.
Because the dip stick tube is tapered and retained by a small bolt or the blower housing depending upon the model it makes a good seal.
The grommet is a service item and needs to be replaced periodically when it hardens and no longer seals properly.
Apart from the rubber grommet, leaking from the grommet can be due to the breather not working properly or the engine overfilled .

mechanic mark said:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...elNumber=917372852&diagramPageId=&documentId=

see pages 23 & 24 in parts manual, https://www.google.com/search?espv=....1.64.serp..0.2.198...35i39j30i10.l--_ASwW-2M

https://www.amazon.com/Tecumseh-CARBURETOR-632733-632681-632678/dp/B00LX9S2DE look like your carburetor?

Click to expand...

Alas, that carburetor did not work out. The problem is the fuel line fitting that the hose from the gas tank goes to, see illustration. The end of the fitting kept on abutting up against the block. I put the fuel line on and then had tighten the carb to the block under pressure from the compressed fuel line pushing against the block. It worked for awhile, but this year it didn't work at all.

I looked at nylon lines, etc. No way around it, the outfit that sold the carburetor, Kingstore, had a fuel line fitting that stuck out too far. I measured the space from the tip of the carburetor , (the place the fuel line fitting sits into), and the middle of the fuel nozzle. In the original it is 3/8 inch. In the new one, from Kingstore, it was 5/8 inch. The new model carb brought the fuel line one quarter inch closer to the block, and the fuel line has no clearance, it will inevitably rub against the block.

I tried everything, I can't get around it. I was going to make a whole set of gaskets to get one quarter inch clearance, but the gasket maker engineer from the manufacturer said the heat buildup would be too great. I'm trying to fabricate a spacer to put between carb and the block to provide a 1/4 inch-or even 1/8 inch of clearance, but it will take time and energy.

I was wondering, can you give me a link to another supplier besides Kingstore? Maybe the fitting won't be so oversized from another supplier. I can't find another supplier, perhaps you can. Otherwise, I'm going to have to fabricate a gasket made of thick aluminum and put the high temp gaskets on either side to provide clearance.

That fitting is plastic & is just a push fit.
You will not be able to turn it without breaking it ( well I never have anyway ) but you can pull it out then fit a new one at a better angle

bertsmobile1 said:

That fitting is plastic & is just a push fit.
You will not be able to turn it without breaking it ( well I never have anyway ) but you can pull it out then fit a new one at a better angle

Click to expand...

I removed one once without breaking it. I was so proud of myself. Then I broke it putting it back in. My proud feeling disappeared quickly.:laughing: