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I just picked up a non-operating John Deere GS-25, which is listed as: 12.5 HP COM MOW. S/N MO4410X010699

It has a 12.5 HP Kawasaki engine: Code FC401V-BS05 ... E/NO FC401VA11310

It also has a SPICER transaxle: MOD 4360 101 ... S/N 007865 ... 04/19/96

It comes with a 36" double (overlapping) blade mower with the blades timed via a toothed timing belt. As it has been sitting outside in Maine weather for a number of years and when I opened up the mower deck cover I found a pail full of chewed up acorns and pinecones.

The deck is now removed (as are the acorns and pinecones) and I am working on the machine itself. The engine is free, but I'm not getting any spark. The key switch was rusted solid, but I finally got it to work with Kroil and WD-40. I 'think' there is a 'kill-switch' next to the key that was also frozen, that I have freed up, but I do not yet know if the electrical contacts in either of these switches are working properly. If not, then obviously that would prevent the ignition from firing. I don't know if there are any additional safety switches involved with the ignition either.

Both brake bands are frozen solid and I cannot turn either wheel, (yet!) but the parking brake is not on. I'm wondering if there is a safety switch that requires the parking brake to be on before the engine will start. All brake linkages and parts as soaking in Kroil, so I expect them to operate fairly soon.

Can anyone tell me where to find an operators manual and wiring diagram?

This is a nice rugged commercial mower and I'm looking forward to getting it operational.

Thanks for any help..

Roger B

P.S. Sorry, but I don't know how to rotate photos once they are downloaded to the thread. I had them correct in my photo folder, but they reverted to sideways shots when I downloaded them..

Progress Report:

First problem: No spark. However, Boobala has supplied me with a JD GS-25 Manual as well as a Kawasaki FC401V manual, so I can now properly troubleshoot this issue as well as any others that are bound to surface as this project unfolds.. I just have to get to it..

I have freed up both wheels. I found the actual problem was the belts. They had adhered themselves in to their respective pulleys, removing the idler pulleys and prying the belts out of the drive pulleys allowed the wheels to turn freely. The transmission drive shaft also turns, at least in neutral.

I'm surprised at how well things come apart on this machine considering how many years it simply sat outside in the weather.

I found the throttle cable was broken off inside it's sheath down at the carburetor end. As it was still quite long, I was able to recut the sheath and remove several inches of it, exposing the cable inside. Now all I have to do is re-bend the end into an "Z" shape so that it can be fitted to the throttle control lever.

So, progress is being made, albeit slowly... Almost as slow as the replies to this post..

Roger

Jus cruzin around ...got nosey ... so here I am .... S---L---O---W ... moving ehh Goomba ??? Hmmmm.. I wonder if anybody on this forum knows of your MTD Forum ...?????
Hopefully, ... someone will produce a Parts Manual for your GS-25 ... We'll see...???? ..:anyone:

Boobala said:

Hopefully, ... someone will produce a Parts Manual for your GS-25 ... We'll see...???? ..:anyone:

Click to expand...

Boo,

I'm not going to hold my breath, but what you've sent me has helped a good deal..

Rog

Roger B said:

Boo,

I'm not going to hold my breath, but what you've sent me has helped a good deal..

Rog

Click to expand...

What you REALLY need is the SHOP Repair Manual ... I will give credit where due !! was lookin at a JD manual online
( somewhere ?? ) and as Bert says ... they are GREAT !! well worth the cost ! BUT you better shop for price ...!!
the manual from JD is $80.00 for printed book form or $45.00 for c-d ... but..you can get get a version on-line
cheaper ... YOU KNOW what I'd do ..!!! And of course that depends on whether you are going to keep it or try to repair to sell !! In case you don't know my feelings towards JD ...go read my post on the MTD forum . Rog I tried just about all the lil secrets I know to get these manuals for ya .. but it appears JD has them locked-up tighter than a tick's butt !! MAYBE there are some folks on this JD forum that can help ya out ..???

........

parts manual can be viewed at www.jdparts.com, I agree you need the tech manual, it just happens to be one I don't have

JoeM(GA) said:

parts manual can be viewed at www.jdparts.com, I agree you need the tech manual, it just happens to be one I don't have

Click to expand...

Hey there Joe .. You just made Roger a happy camper .. I visited the parts site with your link . I tried to open the parts section of
JD several times but kept being blocked out ... yours let me in .. so that means he can .. I think I was having a problem until I turned off
part of my Internet Security systems ... I thought of sending you a PM ... but I had seen where you must have answered a huge amount of
requests for a different JD manual over a long period of time !! and figured you might be tired of being a GO-TO guy ..anyway.. sure wish someone had the Service Manual ... but such is life ... well Joe I guarantee you Rog is most thankful for you assistance ...and visit the thread to keep us in-line ..( LOL ) ..:thumbsup: .... Boobala

JoeM(GA) said:

parts manual can be viewed at www.jdparts.com, I agree you need the tech manual, it just happens to be one I don't have

Click to expand...

Hey Joe,

Thanks for the JD manual site.. Between you and Boo-Boo, I now have access to what must amount to nearly every manual every printed for a GS-25 as well as the Kawasaki engine. We'll whip this bad boy if it takes all summer! (You don't know where to find parts cheap do you? I noted that the coil is a $90 item and I suspect that may be the cause of the no-spark problem.)

Thanks again!

Hey if you have any spare time on your hands, drop around to the MTD forum and check out our Transaxle Rebuild thread... We need guys who will actually 'talk' with us..

Roger

Second Progress Report

Using Information provided by Boobala and Joe, I removed the engine cowling to gain access to the ignition coil. First thing I discovered was that the proper sized feeler gauge would not slip between the edge of the flywheel and the core of the coil. So I removed the coil and using emery paper sanded the edge of the flywheel smooth as well as the face of the coil core where it fits the curved edge of the flywheel. (Both were very rusty.) Then with a .012" feeler gauge I reset the correct air gap between the two of them and tightened the coil down. Using a multi-meter I checked the resistance of the primary and secondary coils of the ignition coil. Both read within specs, indicating that the coil should be alright. So I reassembled the cowling and pull starter. I got my better half to hold the sparkplug body against the engine block. (By it's rubber boot, I didn't want her to have a shocking experience!) And I pulled over the engine.... no spark... Oh bummer... Just for the hell of it I disconnected the wire that comes from the key switch that grounds the coil to shut off the engine and pulled the starter rope again..... SPARK!!!! Beautiful SPARK!! I read the key switch again and now found a low resistance reading even with the switch in the OFF position. Yesterday I had not been able to obtain any reading through the switch at all.. I'm afraid that it is all corroded inside as every time I turned it ON and OFF the resistance reading would change. Same with the PTO switch which will also ground out the coil.. So now I have several grounds to run down, but that should be easy!! I was so excited to see a spark I couldn't wait to clean up my tools and come in and type this on the forum!!

This poor old machine may run again yet!!

More to come..

Roger

Third Progress Report

I was going to test compression on the 12.5 HP Kawasaki before trying to actually start it, now that it has spark, but I couldn't wait. I stuck the old original NGK spark plug back in it, squirted some gas into the carb (the gas tank is not currently connected to the fuel pump) and pulled the recoil starter. The Kawa fired on the third try! Whoopie! I didn't try it again because the engine oil is old, so I drained that out and removed the old oil filter and then came in the house to research all the replacement parts I'll need now that I know the engine will run.

New NGK Spark Plug - BPR5ES. Almost 2 qts of SAE 10W-30 SF, SE, or SD oil. I found dozens of compatible oil filters to the JD AM107423 original. A new JD or Kawasaki air filter with foam pre-filter and some sort of fuel filter to replace the JD fuel filter kit AM116178.

Once all that is taken care off I'll really try to get it running... I was thinking of washing out the crankcase before refilling it with new oil.. Any suggestions??

Roger

Re: Third Progress Report

Roger B said:

I was going to test compression on the 12.5 HP Kawasaki before trying to actually start it, now that it has spark, but I couldn't wait. I stuck the old original NGK spark plug back in it, squirted some gas into the carb (the gas tank is not currently connected to the fuel pump) and pulled the recoil starter. The Kawa fired on the third try! Whoopie! I didn't try it again because the engine oil is old, so I drained that out and removed the old oil filter and then came in the house to research all the replacement parts I'll need now that I know the engine will run.

New NGK Spark Plug - BPR5ES. Almost 2 qts of SAE 10W-30 SF, SE, or SD oil. I found dozens of compatible oil filters to the JD AM107423 original. A new JD or Kawasaki air filter with foam pre-filter and some sort of fuel filter to replace the JD fuel filter kit AM116178.

Once all that is taken care off I'll really try to get it running... I was thinking of washing out the crankcase before refilling it with new oil.. Any suggestions??

Roger

Click to expand...

Well Rog , Back in the day we used to use auto trans fluid to " WASH-DOWN " the internals ... it's a very fine oil , like machine grade , (especially good for keeping Hydraulic lifters clean in auto engines ), I would put 2+ qts in YOUR eng . (even slightly over filling it ) remove the spark-plug , and work out on that recoil for a while, remove the drain plug and let it drain for a few hours , then put in proper amt. of cheap 30 wt. oil , ( Why waste expensive grade until you're sure engine is running ) if engine starts & runs I would run it on & off while checking for leaks and general operation , you know the drill... I would let it run on the cheap oil till I was sure its running in good order , then change the oil to that of your preference , I will recommend adding LUCAS
oil conditioner , about 40% of oil capacity but thats your call . Also it's been sittin quite awhile , I would think the fuel system will more than likely need a few things worked on before you get this thing purring like a kitten . ..:2cents:

Re: Third Progress Report

Boobala said:

Well Rog , Back in the day we used to use auto trans fluid to " WASH-DOWN " the internals ... it's a very fine oil , like machine grade , (especially good for keeping Hydraulic lifters clean in auto engines ), I would put 2+ qts in YOUR eng . (even slightly over filling it ) remove the spark-plug , and work out on that recoil for a while, remove the drain plug and let it drain for a few hours , then put in proper amt. of cheap 30 wt. oil , ( Why waste expensive grade until you're sure engine is running ) if engine starts & runs I would run it on & off while checking for leaks and general operation , you know the drill... I would let it run on the cheap oil till I was sure its running in good order , then change the oil to that of your preference , I will recommend adding LUCAS
oil conditioner , about 40% of oil capacity but thats your call . Also it's been sittin quite awhile , I would think the fuel system will more than likely need a few things worked on before you get this thing purring like a kitten . ..:2cents:

Click to expand...

Thanks Boo, that's good advice. I'll try the tranny fluid as a crankcase cleaner and I do just as you say, start out with WalMart's "best" oil until all systems have proven themselves..

Rog

Fourth Progress Report

Since I last posted here, I have replaced the old spark plug with a new NGK, installed a new oil filter and refilled the crank case with new oil. Replaced the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel pump and added a new fuel filter, tore the carburetor apart and cleaned and reassembled it, determined that the fuel pump was actually working, discovered the ground that was preventing a spark was coming through a relay (which is currently removed until I get to work tracing down the ground) put some clean fuel in the tank (which I can cleaned out) and now the Kawasaki runs like a champ!

Then I got distracted by two Troy-Bilt roto-tillers I got for Free!! I now have one of the running properly (I repowered it with a Predator engine from Harbor Freight) and finally got the pulleys aligned. The second one needed additional cleaning as I found the gunk in the gear case was almost as old as I am!! (It dripped out like molasses in January!) I'm going to pick up another Predator engine and repower it as well.

Then, I'll get back to the running gear on the JD as well as the mower..

More later,

Roger