Need help on B-S V-twin

Pulled valve cover and checked push rods. Exhaust was bent. Put new push rods in and adjusted valves. The valve guide look OK to me. Started and ran fine. Thanks for all the help.

I stated that it ran fine. I got to thinking that a push rod does not bend for no reason. I think I need to look at the valve train closer. Dazed an confused right now!!!!!
 
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Boudreaux, Thanks for the link to the video. Great info after I got over the teeth lol. So I have pulled the left head and the guide has moved. Going to pull right also. My brother in law has a 20 V twin engine. He has a machine shop and is going through the heads for me. Things are looking up. I want to think everybody that replied to my post. This is a great form and has a lot of people that are willing to help.
 
I have a tried and true fix for slipped valve guides and even includes a variation of it sent to me where the head doesn't even need removed.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com
 
Tinkerer200 said:
I have a tried and true fix for slipped valve guides and even includes a variation of it sent to me where the head doesn't even need removed.

Walt Conner
wconner5 at frontier dot com
Click to expand...

That sounds interesting but I have all ready pulled the heads and will put rebuilt ones on Friday. Hopefully I will not need to do this again an time soon. This is the only V-Twin I have the others are single cylinder.
 
Goober11 said:
Pulled valve cover and checked push rods. Exhaust was bent. Put new push rods in and adjusted valves. The valve guide look OK to me. Started and ran fine. Thanks for all the help.

I stated that it ran fine. I got to thinking that a push rod does not bend for no reason. I think I need to look at the valve train closer. Dazed an confused right now!!!!!
Click to expand...

Had a similar problem on my rover mower[ australia] ,briggs and stratton 15.5hp vangaurd engine.Motor stopped and i investigated ,pulled off rocker cover and found aluminum push rod had worn through and snapped.It had been rubbing against the bushing.I did not have another so i measured its length and thickness and found a piece of steel rod from an old shopping trolley that was close enough.Cut this to length and for the hardened end pieces i silver soldered a ball bearing onto each end.Been working for some months now ,does not get a lot of use .Handy to know if you ever get stuck .Any one know why one push rod is an hollow aluminium tube with hardened inserts [ the one that broke] and the other is solid steel rod ?.Seems strange to me .
 
cropcircle said:
Had a similar problem on my rover mower[ australia] ,briggs and stratton 15.5hp vangaurd engine.Motor stopped and i investigated ,pulled off rocker cover and found aluminum push rod had worn through and snapped.It had been rubbing against the bushing.I did not have another so i measured its length and thickness and found a piece of steel rod from an old shopping trolley that was close enough.Cut this to length and for the hardened end pieces i silver soldered a ball bearing onto each end.Been working for some months now ,does not get a lot of use .Handy to know if you ever get stuck .Any one know why one push rod is an hollow aluminium tube with hardened inserts [ the one that broke] and the other is solid steel rod ?.Seems strange to me .
Click to expand...

Well that was certainly ingenious. You should have been able to pick up a used steel push rod from a junked engine. B&S uses an aluminum push rod on the valve involved in compression release on OHV engines for heat expansion stabilization reasons. I always recommend reversing the aluminum push rod when adjusting valves for the reason you found. NOTE: Later models use a different push rod support system and do not wear the push rod.

Your engine is an early OHV "Vanguard" single and I think you will find the parts are the same as later Intek engines as B&S switched their designations.

Walt Conner
 
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