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2000 MTD (ACE Branded)
Model 13AM673G033
serial 1D290B8)145
14.5 hp IC

single cylinder B&S

This mower has been running great.. put new blades. belt.. pulley gaurds on it and been mowing right along... until yesterday.. I was mowing and was about haf done when it just stopped.. no sputtering or lurching or missing.. just shut down.. I did not find any signs of water but I drained 5the tank and lines and put on a new fuel filter.. Now after setting for some minutes you try to start it and it starts right up.. and shuts right back down... If you countinue to crank it over and try choke.. no choke.. trottle no throttle and inbeween.. and it will not start.. wait a few 15 or 20 minutes.. crank it over and starts right up and shuts right back down.. I am only medium at reading wiring diagrams and the one's they put in the manual suck and are incomplete in not showing all saftey switches etc..

I have worked on Chainsaws all my life (i am 68) but like they say.. this ain't no chainsaw.. I do do all my own auto repairs to but for some reason i am not getting a handle on this..

Lots of help would be great.. Thanks..

Remove the engine cover and then the kill wire off the coil, try and start it, if it runs good you will know its to do with the safety switchers, if its the same then you will know there is a problem with the engine......come back and let us know.

Try what Engine man told you... If that doesn't work then you have a fuel problem.... When you are letting it set it is filling the bowl up... It could be a flapping fuel line or something getting in the the needle and seat.... I think you have the Walbro carb on yours......

Let us know what carb you have.... if you have a screw on each side of the bowl then it's a Nikki.... Just 1 in the middle of the bowl will be a Walbro..... Totally different carbs.........

Let us know the outcome.............

OK will do.. fits right in with my plans for tomorrow.. going to pull hood and side cowling off where i can get to everything better and it could use a interior cleanup.. BTW.. if you have any info.. diagrams of the engine it would help.. all Information I can find and have is mower itself.. Thanks for the Interest..

Engine
B&S I/C 14.5 HP OHV
Model 287787 or 2877E7 or something else on that 2nd to last number
Type 1224-E1
Code is unreadable.

Boudreaux In Eunice La. .. Thank You.. Will follow through tomorrow... been a long day today..

wheelie said:

OK will do.. fits right in with my plans for tomorrow.. going to pull hood and side cowling off where i can get to everything better and it could use a interior cleanup.. BTW.. if you have any info.. diagrams of the engine it would help.. all Information I can find and have is mower itself.. Thanks for the Interest..

Engine
B&S I/C 14.5 HP OHV
Model 287787 or 2877E7 or something else on that 2nd to last number
Type 1224-E1
Code is unreadable.

Click to expand...

GO to Jacks https://www.jackssmallengines.com/ and type in your engine number in the search window.
That will bring up either a drop down list or new window listing all the variations of that motor used in the USA with the mower they were fitted to.
You now have a parts breakdown ( better than the one Briggs provide ) for your engine.
Right click on the images then print them out.

The other route is to enter your mower details then go to the engine diagram to find what engine was fitted then search that engine.
The actual images on partstree are better than JAcks but the search engine Jacks use is better than partstree.

As foor eengine service information, you are looking for "Overhead valve single cylinder service manual "
They are every where on the web as downloads of varying quality or you could even buy a paper copy.

Thank you.. I am looking more for a repair manual than a service manual.. I will check the info at Jack asyou suggested.. i have purchased from there on other needs and did not think of it..

Have you checked for the presence of spark when it will not run??

I thought I posted this.. It is electric start..

Ronno6 .. I have only done some basic tests as it is hard to get to need items until i remove cowl and hood... I know it has spark at times because when I leave it set and then crank it over it starts right up..then just dies immediately following. Thank you.. I am starting to think fuel as has been suggested.. in which case she is probably scrap..

Wheelie when it dies take the plug out and check for spark right away..... That's what Ronno was meaning.......

Let us know with an update Mon Ami ~!~!

will do..

to maybe get ahead of the game.. My carburetor has 2 electric wires coming out the bottom of the float bowl.. That is a new one on me.. any thoughts on them and if I disconnect them can I screw the bottom nut out of the float bowl or is that going to break something... ahhh for a manual..

That is your anti backfire solenoid......... That very well could be your issue..... What it does it shuts off the gas to the carb when you turn the key off and TRIES to prevent a backfire.....

Does your carb have 2 screws holding the bowl on ??? Or does it have just the one in the middle of the bowl ???

2 screws is a Nikki carb and only one is a Walbro.... I am betting on a Nikki carb....

Either way the anti backfire needs a very skinny 1/2 inch open wrench to take it off..... Then hook the plug back up to it and turn the key on and off.... If it clicks back and forth then it's good.....

Or if you put your ear close to the bowl of the carb and listen while you turn the key on and off you might can hear it.......

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!

It will be one of the two......

Ok.. some updating... My wife has a broken foot and was having a bad day yesterday and truthfully i was not feeling up to par so did not get much done.. I did go out and pulled the harness from the bottom of the carb and unscrewed the back fire device from the bowl and it drained.. I put it back together and tried to start it.. same thing start and immediately shut down.. I gave up on it and other than one more try later in the afternoon with same results I did not do much..

TODAY.. A while back I did have a water in fuel (condensation) problem and draining the tank thru the hose and new filter fixed it right up.. so that kept eating on me. I also had not paid attention to what Carb it was and had not checked the anti back fire device for 'clicking'... There is no clicking and it does not move the plunger if that is what it is.. and It is a Nikki carb...

I then as i usually do after a procedure.. tried to start it.. and it stared right up.. and kept running.. I played with the throttle a bit.. and I shut it down.. ( and to note.. I always shut this down with the throttle.. not the key)... I started it again and all OK.. So i picked up my tools etc .. put them away .. went and jumped on and it started and away we went mowing away... After about ten minutes my phone vibrated in my shirt pocket and as I have been waiting for 2 calls since last week I shut it down and answered the call.. was not one i wanted and was short.. Tried to start it and .. back to same.. starts up and shuts down.. finally decided to remove all doubt on possible water.. I pulled the tank.. and drained it a flushed it with new bought today gas.. I bought another filter and new fuel lines and clamps.. dumped half a tank of gas it.. same damned thing.. pulled the bottom from carb and checked for good flow.. Got good flow... So while absolutely eliminating bad fuel or plugged lines.... I now will need to go to the next thing.. Spark after fire will be next.. if i can find my spark tested.. it is not in the handiest place to try and ground the plug and see it..even with a helper.

Tomorrow is another day..

Boudreaux In Eunice La.


"What it does it shuts off the gas to the carb when you turn the key off and TRIES to prevent a backfire....."

That is why I always shut it down with throttle.. If i turn off the ignition it will backfire with the loudest boom and dogs and kids scatter

Check the "anti backfire solenoid" again.

It is possible that there is sufficient "stuff" in the bottom of your carb bowl to stop fuel from entering the main jets.
When the mower sits not running, the particles have a chance to fall out of suspension, allowing a tad of fuel to enter the passages.
When you start it the stuff gets sucked back into the jets clogging fuel floe and stopping the engine.

Just a thought........

Yes.. feeling better today so brain MIGHT work better .. I will be pulling the fuel solenoid again today and do what i should have yesterday.. check for proper voltage to it and... check it for continuity thru the coil.... and check for debris.. If that proves not to be the problem i will drop the carb bowl.. and move on up the line.. .. That is .. if it does not rain..

Re: Need good mechanic.. FIXED

and there we have it..

dug out my fluke and pulled the fuel solenoid.. checked for coil continuity .. it was good. so checked for voltage.. none..almost started the ignition switch but decided different.. hooked ground lead directly to battery and positive to harness connector.. we have voltage.. hooked positive lead to positive on battery and negative lead to harness connector.. nothing... Fuel Solenoid harness ground is right beside carb mount so got felt up to it and it was connected.. by one skinny little corroded strand that immediately broke off.. new connector eye ..clean up the area.. tighten it up.. and hooked to solenoid... hit the key.. and plunger goes in.. test several times.. works.. put all back together.. give a crank .. it is running.. finished mowing my yard and mowed the little gal a crossed the street's yard with purposely shutting down and restarting several times.. all is good and I believe it is running smoother.. might just be my happy self..

Thank You all for your help... friendliness.... and experience... :thumbsup: :cool2:

I am sure I will be back..

Nice one....!:thumbsup:

Thanks for the update ~!~!

Ahh, I love it when a plan comes together............

wheelie said:

Ronno6 .. I have only done some basic tests as it is hard to get to need items until i remove cowl and hood... I know it has spark at times because when I leave it set and then crank it over it starts right up..then just dies immediately following. Thank you.. I am starting to think fuel as has been suggested.. in which case she is probably scrap..

Click to expand...

Like I said earlier Thanks for the good news and the running update............ But no, a engine that has fuel issues is not scrap nor needs to be scrap..... Fuel is the minor issue,,,, A scored cylinder and a broken rod is a BIG issue and mostly non repairable.......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

at the cost of a carb or fuel pump or both i would have scrapped it. Lucky for me.. and the mower ...with you folks help.. we did not have to go there.