Need Advice, Blow by at carb on Fx801v engine

help solve problem

  • rebuild

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rrh

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think cam is out of time, pull 1 valve cover and plug . slowly rotate engine by hand. on the stroke that's not compression as the piston come up to top dead center one valve will close and other will open . this should happen right at top of stroke, if not cam is out of time

That's my determination. I'm sure I lined up the marks. I did notice on the new crank there's not a dot like the original crank had but instead a small arrow. At the top of the of the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve closes and the intake valve opens at the same time (as per your response - I think). I look at that tonight, but my guess the crank is mismarked and i'll use your suggestion to assure the valve timing. thanks
 

rrh

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Found the problem. I dismantled the engine and basically inspected each part. I took the heads and preformed a leak test by pouring paint thinner into the combustion chamber and let it sir - no leak by. Then I split the case looking for timing marks I saw that I indeed matched the marks (the arrow on the crank to the dimple on the cam. But I wasn't convinced that was right. I pulled the old crank out of the metal scrap bin and inspected it. I found that the original crank timing mark lined up with the oil hole on the crank bearing shaft, but the new cranks didn't. I located the oiling hole on the new crank and looked at the tooth where the dimple should be and to the naked eye there was no dimple. I took a pick and rubbed the cranks teeth and found a very slight dimple on the correct tooth. pass along to your readers that be aware of replacement cranks (mine came direct from Kawasaki) the dimples may or may not be apparent. Thanks for all you guys help. Your thoughts and advice really helped me and I hope my findings can help someone else in need.
 

rrh

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Sep 25, 2018
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think cam is out of time, pull 1 valve cover and plug . slowly rotate engine by hand. on the stroke that's not compression as the piston come up to top dead center one valve will close and other will open . this should happen right at top of stroke, if not cam is out of time

Found the problem. I dismantled the engine and basically inspected each part. I took the heads and preformed a leak test by pouring paint thinner into the combustion chamber and let it sir - no leak by. Then I split the case looking for timing marks I saw that I indeed matched the marks (the arrow on the crank to the dimple on the cam. But I wasn't convinced that was right. I pulled the old crank out of the metal scrap bin and inspected it. I found that the original crank timing mark lined up with the oil hole on the crank bearing shaft, but the new cranks didn't. I located the oiling hole on the new crank and looked at the tooth where the dimple should be and to the naked eye there was no dimple. I took a pick and rubbed the cranks teeth and found a very slight dimple on the correct tooth. pass along to your readers that be aware of replacement cranks (mine came direct from Kawasaki) the dimples may or may not be apparent. Thanks for all you guys help. Your thoughts and advice really helped me and I hope my findings can help someone else in need.
 

mhavanti

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Oct 12, 2014
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rrh,

Considering we're all going on the cam and crank were correctly timed. You received a lot of good advice that you followed before reassembling your engine. So, once you found the timing marks, indexed them properly. That rascal should run like a scalded ape now.

Glad you found your problem,

Max
 

rrh

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rrh,

Considering we're all going on the cam and crank were correctly timed. You received a lot of good advice that you followed before reassembling your engine. So, once you found the timing marks, indexed them properly. That rascal should run like a scalded ape now.

Glad you found your problem,

Max

Again thanks, Seams like I have another problem. The motor don't seam to rev up very high. Half choke or full choke I can get it to run for a few seconds at a higher RPM (more or less like it should be) but then is starts to sputter as it should when the choke is pulled. I let off the choke and the rpm raises but soon falls off. The mower has been sitting for a while and it could be the card. I'm running Seafoam in it now to see if clears up. any suggestions
 

mhavanti

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Oct 12, 2014
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If the seafoam doesn't clear it up and I'd not hold my breath. Be ready to clean the carb. Run wire thru all the circuits to clean them really well. If that doesn't open it up, get back to us.

Max
 
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