Need a weed eater
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twall
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I have a ryobi multi-attachment trimmer I got for $75 refurb from Big lots. Then bought $150 in attachments for it. Love it. I bought the tiller, the leaf blower, and this year, I'm going to get the pole saw.
I agree with JD, though. I also have a tiny $45 28cc weedeater from walmart. That thing earns the name 'featherlite'. It's tough as nails, too. I do my trimming with that. (bought the multi for running the attachments) Unfortunately, the carb is unadjustable, and I have to run it on almost 1/8 choke, because the dammed thing is too lean. I'd buy another one without hesitation anyway. I just put a drywall screw in the air filter housing to keep it @ 1/8 choke, and I run it all day. Fuel efficient as all heck. I swear I could run it for 5 min on a shotglass of gas. I usually only go through 2 tanks A SEASON.
Last fall, my neighbor gave me a TORO mult (he couldn't get it to run - came in a box lot at an auction). It fits my attachments too!
I also have 2 running JD trimmers from the '80s, and a Mcculoch. The weedeater is still the best. That cheap $45 weedeater. God as my witness.
I agree with JD, though. I also have a tiny $45 28cc weedeater from walmart. That thing earns the name 'featherlite'. It's tough as nails, too. I do my trimming with that. (bought the multi for running the attachments) Unfortunately, the carb is unadjustable, and I have to run it on almost 1/8 choke, because the dammed thing is too lean. I'd buy another one without hesitation anyway. I just put a drywall screw in the air filter housing to keep it @ 1/8 choke, and I run it all day. Fuel efficient as all heck. I swear I could run it for 5 min on a shotglass of gas. I usually only go through 2 tanks A SEASON.
Last fall, my neighbor gave me a TORO mult (he couldn't get it to run - came in a box lot at an auction). It fits my attachments too!
I also have 2 running JD trimmers from the '80s, and a Mcculoch. The weedeater is still the best. That cheap $45 weedeater. God as my witness.
hey twall i been running the featherlite weedeaters for years,their everything you said and.. MORE the 'more' part is my wife called the company and ordered some parts (2 different times)and they shipped right away and no charge:confused2::laughing:
twall
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I've had this featherlite for about 4 years. Use it every time I mow for about 20 min (to gauge useage). Before that, I had one for 2 years and sold it for more than I paid for it. (still had adjustable mixture screw) Wish I'd kept it.........
Yes, Weedeater is the way to go. I'd say except in comm. applications, but I dunno. Those featherlites are one tough little beastie.
Need a big yard to run 4 weed wackers all season:biggrin:
Mord of mouth seems to be the best way to pick the toughest. Ask around about what is reliable and what is not.
I think I'm all but done with the disposable wackers. I still think a 4 stroke is the way to go for longevity. Really that is what we all want. a wackers that will stand the test of time with little or no maintenance
Companies change their manufacturing practises sometimes which results in a lemon year or two.
I run a stihl weed wacker. Paid $150 and other than a bettle dying iin the muffler so I couldn't start it, it runs great. My 10 year old can walk around the yard for a long time before he powers out.
Other than Makita, who make a four stroke weed wacker?
Most of these small two cycle engines that cost more are justified in that they have Two Crankshaft Bearings--One on each side of connecting rod.
It is much simpler to manufactur with crank bearings on one end of crankshaft.
In most cases the better constructed engines vibrate less and are more troublefree, although I have seen and worked on many cheaper brands that held up pretty good.
For my use, I always go for the more balanced, separated bearing engines.
In most cases you can easily determine the more expensive by --their price, of course--and also that the pull cord will be mounted on the outside.
It is much simpler to manufactur with crank bearings on one end of crankshaft.
In most cases the better constructed engines vibrate less and are more troublefree, although I have seen and worked on many cheaper brands that held up pretty good.
For my use, I always go for the more balanced, separated bearing engines.
In most cases you can easily determine the more expensive by --their price, of course--and also that the pull cord will be mounted on the outside.