The last time this happened i was able to use the advice i found reading through some of the threads on the subject, it was as simple as a good cleaning of the ground to frame connection, well first off it is a 10 year old lt1000, mdl#917.274391, powered by a briggs & stratton 18 hp intek engine, it has been maintained pretty good over the years but my son who is now 16 has been running it for years, and we all know kids can be a little unaware....so anyway it was running and mowing fine but when shut off hot had a sluggish restart that had me thinking the battery was going bad, it is a year old, i tested it, 12.4vdc, and checked the water...it needed a tablespoon in on of the cells but didn't look heavily sulphited, i charged it and over night the voltage dropped from 12.5 to 12.1, when you try to start it by turning the key it go's clunk and nothing else, i tested voltage at the selinoid, the key side was 12.5 and the starter side was 11.8 with brake depressed and key turned, it will spark if i jump accross the selinoid but doesn't do anything, i checked the mounting of the selinoid to frame, nice and clean. i replaced the battery and the new one has a voltage of 12.5 but does the same thing when key is turned....clunk. i am thinking selinoid but really need some good advice, i have a good multi tester and am learning how to use it. thanks guys.:confused2:
my craftsman won't start yet again
- Thread starter 91redford
- Start date
TexasBackyardShed
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- May 5, 2013
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The starter may be out. It happened to my old Murray rider. Or the engine could be locked up.
Pull the spark plug out and try jumping across the solenoid. If it does not spin over, go through this troubleshooting guide to determine what may be causing the problem.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. * How well you understand basic electricity.
2. *What tools you have and know how to use.
3. *How well you follow directions.
4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*
Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again). *If you have power what is the voltage?
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
GentlemanFahmah
Active Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2010
- Threads
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- 74
Do you have safety switches on the seat and blade engagement functions? If you can spin it jumping the solenoid then perhaps one of your safety switches is stuck/malfunctioned. Try checking/jumping the switches.