Export thread

Yardman Model 13AV9YG371
18 hp Kohler, 42" deck
A simple main drive belt replacement has caused my repertoire of cursing at the stupidity of the American Yardman "inventors" to increase exponentially over last few days...
Yep, like a few you tube blokes show, I'll undo the engine to slip the belt past the 3 molded guides... but that's not the issue.

How the hell is the belt then removed?
The gap between the shaft electric transmission assembly and the steering plate is too small (triangular rack & pinion shaped thing for the steering wheel that the two steering rods go to)
So, let's remove that steering plate, then gap will let deck belt slip out, because if able to then the shaft electric transmission assembly would NOT have to be removed....
Nope, not easy at all to remove said steering rack & pinion plate

What the hell were they thinking?
They deliberately made the job as tricky as possible to p¡ss people off?
Coz this Kiwi way down here under is livid

Never again will i bother with American sh¡t.... adding, years ago my younger brother and I owned a mower sales & service shop..
This Yardman's design is off the scale stupid.

As you can probably tell, I'm begging, if anyone can give a bit of advice please... before i pop a foo foo valve or something....

Cheers
Flying Kiwi

First you are missing a number in the model number.

13AV90YG371 Took some doing to find the IPL for this one. Had to get it as a PDF instead of online viewing.

You are going at it the hard way to replace the primary motion drive belt. As for the deck belt it is as simple as can be for the 42" deck, its the 50" deck that is a pain.

You suppose to remove the electric PTO clutch instead of the steering sector gear. Now of course if someone didn't use anti seize compound on the crankshaft the PTO clutch may be stuck as will the engine transmission pulley. Normally you remove the PTO clutch and slip down the transmission drive pulley without having to un-bolt the engine.

It when you get to the variable speed pulley the fun starts. Either its mounting plate got to be loosen or the transaxle partially removed; depending on the design in order to the belts off and on. Of course the idler arm spring need removing to get the pressure off the secondary drive belt.

StarTech said:

First you are missing a number in the model number.

13AV90YG371 Took some doing to find the IPL for this one. Had to get it as a PDF instead of online viewing.

You are going at it the hard way.

You suppose to remove the electric PTO clutch instead of the steering sector gear. Now of course if someone didn't use anti seize compound on the crankshaft the PTO clutch may be stuck as will the engine transmission pulley. Normally you remove the PTO clutch and slip down the transmission drive pulley without having to un-bolt the engine.

It when you get to the variable speed pulley the fun starts. Either its mounting plate got to be loosen or the transaxle partially removed; depending on the design in order to the belts off and on. Of course the idler arm spring need removing to get the pressure off the secondary drive belt.

Click to expand...

Hey, thanks for your reply.
Ah, just checked the photo of the model and yes, i missed a digit, damn it!
If that's the only way as you say, seems absolutely illogical and frankly very stupid, if the belt could go through that gap there'd be no need to remove the pulley(s) off the shafts.
Can see that loosening four engine bolts to slightly move the engine wouldn't be difficult

Anyway, damn it, will go back and see what i can do
Thanks Star Tech.
Cheers
F.K

Flying Kiwi said:

Hey, thanks for your reply.
Ah, just checked the photo of the model and yes, i missed a digit, damn it!
If that's the only way as you say, seems absolutely illogical and frankly very stupid, if the belt could go through that gap there'd be no need to remove the pulley(s) off the shafts.
Can see that loosening four engine bolts to slightly move the engine wouldn't be difficult

Anyway, damn it, will go back and see what i can do
Thanks Star Tech.
Cheers
F.K

Click to expand...

The problem is there is normally an anti-rotation device used on the PTO clutch that can prevent you from getting the belt off too. I don't see it listed as a separate item so may be part of the lower frame assy.

StarTech said:

The problem is there is normally an anti-rotation device used on the PTO clutch that can prevent you from getting the belt off too. I don't see it listed as a separate item so may be part of the lower frame assy.

Click to expand...

Ah...yes, i know what you mean
The "anti rotation device" is the U-shaped belt guide, which sits in a notched lug on the PTO clutch, which was easily removed (2 x 13mm) - That's my other annoyance.... everything is imperial.

I modified a long 1/2" extension so it will fit over a cut down impact socket if it is the model with the large pulley on top of the drive and the belt retained by the mowers sides .
IT is all about the money honey people will not pay it so MTD does not spend it making the mowers .
IF you are talking about the vari drive pulley it has to be loosened enough to be swung out of the way
And since no one has mentioned this yet.
Both belts ave to be replaced as a set and you need to either use OEM MTD belts or OEM spec aftermarket belts ( Rotary, Prime Line or Stens ) no other belt will work long term as they are not the right dimensions .
Vari drive belts are wider & shallower than std section belts

Not had the mower too long Bert, could see that the shorter back trans belt is virtually brand new.
There was no way i was going to stuff around removing the bulky and stuck solid pully assembly, couldn't be bothered with that shit.

So...as pic hopefully shows
- Removed the lower steering assembly. (6 x mounting bolts, 2 arm nuts and steering wheel cog). Note the steering column's lower bush components and format.
- Dropped out the 4 x engine bolts.
- Fitted the (correct oem belt).
- Simply slide the engine slightly whichever direction needed, the belt fit's easily when line up the pulley's slightly flatter side to the belt guard.
- Reinstall the shorter rear belt.
- Lever the engine to fit engine bolts easily
- Reinstall the lower steering assembly

There you go all you back yard busted knuckles grease monkey's, that's the Kiwi's way to Fly through it easily.
Main thing in this to remember though - avoid all crappy American shit, their engineering skills are zero, design's are illogical and they still stupidly use imperial.