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MTD Yard man w/ 18 HP Briggs and Stratton twin 2 won't stay running
- Thread starter dakotanut
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Export threadI'm bringing it home today to work on. I had 4 weedeaters not want to run at all yesterday and 1 other lawnmower. Got them all working but 2. So, I might be able to get to this one today again.
I have the same/similar mower.
My guess is your looking at an issue around the electric fuel shut-off valve/solenoid at the bottom if the carb. Check that it goes "click" when the ignition switch is turned on (before starting). If it's not engaging it can still leak allowing fuel to enter the float bowl slowly but not enough to run the engine a full throttle.
Best of luck.
Neo
My guess is your looking at an issue around the electric fuel shut-off valve/solenoid at the bottom if the carb. Check that it goes "click" when the ignition switch is turned on (before starting). If it's not engaging it can still leak allowing fuel to enter the float bowl slowly but not enough to run the engine a full throttle.
Best of luck.
Neo
peterfrain1943@gmail.com
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I have this riding mower that I am trying to fix. The choke linkage broke and I sort of fixed it for awhile. Doesn't explain the bad idle or dieing problem. I can get it started and run it for about 5 to 10 mins or so maybe longer and then it will start to act like it is dieing and when i push the throttle to slow it will run for awhile. Then it will start acting up all over again. If I reach up and grab the trottle arm on the carb and pull it so it revs up it will last awhile and start all over again. I've cleaned the carb and it still acts up. I can start it now with out the choke though. I'm not sure about the linkage from the motor to carb. It doesn't seem to be right cause it barely moves and not freely. Thanks for any help. It is killing me.
Change the air filter or clean it well. Also you may want to replace the spark plug. I had a problem that was like this and that was the fix.
Check that the fuel tank cap can breath. If there is a clear plastic cap under the main tank cap - throw it away! Air has to get into the tank to replace the fuel that goes out. Otherwise the fuel don't get to the carb in full flow.
Put you some Stabil in the Fuel Tank.
Read the Instruction's on how to adjust the Low Idle Mixture, and the High Speed Mixture. If you haven't messed up the Needle Valve's, by turning them in too much,, then you may be able to get your engine running better.
Over time,, Gas Residue will get in the small opening's where the needle valve is,, and by adjusting them,, while useing Stabil Gas Treatment,, may disloge the Residue,, and let your engine get the correct Fuel/Air that it need's.
Read the Service Manual carefully until you understand what it is saying and the correct way to do this.
When I do my 12 hp single cyl; I first adjust the Idle Speed,, then turn the Idle mixture out, until the Engine Slow's,, then turn it in,, until the engine Slow's,, then turn it back out in the Middle. You have to count the turn's to do this, each way.
Then I open the Throttle all the way,, and adjust the High Speed the same way.
Good Luck
Read the Instruction's on how to adjust the Low Idle Mixture, and the High Speed Mixture. If you haven't messed up the Needle Valve's, by turning them in too much,, then you may be able to get your engine running better.
Over time,, Gas Residue will get in the small opening's where the needle valve is,, and by adjusting them,, while useing Stabil Gas Treatment,, may disloge the Residue,, and let your engine get the correct Fuel/Air that it need's.
Read the Service Manual carefully until you understand what it is saying and the correct way to do this.
When I do my 12 hp single cyl; I first adjust the Idle Speed,, then turn the Idle mixture out, until the Engine Slow's,, then turn it in,, until the engine Slow's,, then turn it back out in the Middle. You have to count the turn's to do this, each way.
Then I open the Throttle all the way,, and adjust the High Speed the same way.
Good Luck