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MTD mower deck not positioned correctly?

#1

D

drewkeller

I think there is something bent on my deck or deck support (or not attached right), making the engine pulley grind against the front of the deck when it's in the "up" position. I think it may be crooked: the left side looks a bit forward and the right side is real close to the rear wheel (see photos). I've replaced a couple things on the mower recently, but I think I got everything back where it belonged and the mower seemed to be working great until I ran into a stump.

Things I tried:
* Adjusting the forward/back position of the deck. Positioning it further back caused the blades to spin even with the deck in the "up" position. If it is untensioned enough to NOT spin the blades, then it is back to grinding.
* Took the deck off and looked for something bent. Didn't find anything obvious. (Bent one of the hanger bars sideways a bit getting the deck off. They are not sturdy in that direction. Easy enough to bend back... and no change in the overall result.)

My mower is an MTD circa 2001, model number 13AN678G205

If I need to get another photo of something, let me know :)

BTW, getting that rear extension spring back on was a real pain in the neck (literally!). What's the normal method for doing that? I finally got it using a winch, but that doesn't seem right.

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#2

B

bertsmobile1

The "offical tool" is a spring hook.
A length of high tensile steel with a hook at the spring end and a T handle at the other.
Feet braced by the rear wheels then pull the hook back & slip he other end over the anchor point.
I use a wrachet tie down and a wire loop over the free end of he spring.


#3

Richie F

Richie F

For the rear spring I took a wire coat hanger and made a loop out of it.
One end over the spring and the other end I used a bar thru it and pried off of the steel on the back of the machine.
The bar acts as a lever.
Same way to reinstall.

Granted the deck is twisted, left forward, right back.
If all pivot points on the deck are square than the links are causing the twist.
What side of the deck hit the stump ?


#4

I

ILENGINE

Also over time all those links get bent, and then all the mounting holes wallow out leading to the deck being able to wobble front to back which leads to uneven cut as well as the deck hitting the engine pulley.


#5

D

drewkeller

Thanks for the responses, guys :) Good to know that it is actually twisted somehow. I'll take it apart again and look at it some more.
The right side of the deck hit the stump, but it was at a weird angle because I was backing up and the stump sort of went into the deck housing.


#6

G

gcapilot

drewkeller said:
I think there is something bent on my deck or deck support (or not attached right), making the engine pulley grind against the front of the deck when it's in the "up" position. I think it may be crooked: the left side looks a bit forward and the right side is real close to the rear wheel (see photos). I've replaced a couple things on the mower recently, but I think I got everything back where it belonged and the mower seemed to be working great until I ran into a stump.

Things I tried:
* Adjusting the forward/back position of the deck. Positioning it further back caused the blades to spin even with the deck in the "up" position. If it is untensioned enough to NOT spin the blades, then it is back to grinding.
* Took the deck off and looked for something bent. Didn't find anything obvious. (Bent one of the hanger bars sideways a bit getting the deck off. They are not sturdy in that direction. Easy enough to bend back... and no change in the overall result.)

My mower is an MTD circa 2001, model number 13AN678G205

If I need to get another photo of something, let me know :)

BTW, getting that rear extension spring back on was a real pain in the neck (literally!). What's the normal method for doing that? I finally got it using a winch, but that doesn't seem right.
Click to expand...
I have the similar problem where when the deck is UP, the belt rubs on the front edge of the deck and it won't even start. I have 1998 18.5 HP Husky MTD. Still working on a solution.


#7

StarTech

StarTech

bertsmobile1 said:
The "offical tool" is a spring hook.
A length of high tensile steel with a hook at the spring end and a T handle at the other.
Feet braced by the rear wheels then pull the hook back & slip he other end over the anchor point.
I use a wrachet tie down and a wire loop over the free end of he spring.
Click to expand...
You mean something like of these that I mage here. The longest one (top) is a work in progress as it be around 31" when completed. The second from the top is bent at the end to get some of hard to get on offset attachment points. (darn pesty Cub Cadet ZTR drive spring) The three at the bottom are push / puller versions for carburetor work.

1652625500051.jpeg

And yes a ratchet tie down in my arsenal too. All comes in handy when you work by yourself. Probably make some other version as needed.


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