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Mower would not start after replacing circuit breaker now it will only run briefly

#1

G

Golf Pro 61

I have a snapper 18 hp courage 44" deck model 1694454. Mower would not start. I found a broken wire on breaker so replaced breaker and connections. Motor started no problem thought I was done but it will only run between 5 & 30 seconds before stopping. When cold it will run longer when hot after trying to keep it running it will run shorter time. During this time I just let it run did not drive to driver or engage PTO. It will drive no problem but same result. Try to engage PTO same result just short runs. I have replaced the fuel filter and pump no difference. I tested PTO switch it appears to be fine. After it runs briefly with the key on motor not running if I pull the PTO switch up it won't click till I do it a few times. This makes me think it is electrical?
I forgot to mention I did unplug the clutch just see if it made a difference it did not. Motor still runs a short period.
How can I determine if it is a electrical problem or a motor problem? Thanks for any help.
Dave


#2

EngineMan

EngineMan

You need to know if the circuit breaker is cutting off when the engine die's.


#3

G

Golf Pro 61

Thanks for your quick reply. I solved the running issue it was the fuel shut off solenoid. Now the PTO clutch will not stay engaged. I tested and have 12 volts going to it so removed it and tested it with basic ohm meter looks like zero and should be 1.5 to about 2.5 or so? What I can't figure out is how did 3 parts go bad at once or did one cause the other 2. 1. Bad breaker or wire. 2. Bad Fuel shut off valve. 3. Bad Clutch. Did the clutch cause the breaker to go bad? I do known the fuel shut off valve has not been good for some time it has back fired almost every time I shut it off for the last few years. I did not even know what a fuel shut off valve was till 2 days ago.
Thanks.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

Golf Pro 61 said:
I have a snapper 18 hp courage 44" deck model 1694454. Mower would not start. I found a broken wire on breaker so replaced breaker and connections. Motor started no problem thought I was done but it will only run between 5 & 30 seconds before stopping. When cold it will run longer when hot after trying to keep it running it will run shorter time. During this time I just let it run did not drive to driver or engage PTO. It will drive no problem but same result. Try to engage PTO same result just short runs. I have replaced the fuel filter and pump no difference. I tested PTO switch it appears to be fine. After it runs briefly with the key on motor not running if I pull the PTO switch up it won't click till I do it a few times. This makes me think it is electrical?
I forgot to mention I did unplug the clutch just see if it made a difference it did not. Motor still runs a short period.
How can I determine if it is a electrical problem or a motor problem? Thanks for any help.
Dave
Click to expand...

Get an inline spark tester, Boo found some really cheap so search "spark Testers"on this site for the link.
Get a can of carb cleaner.

Fit the spark tester and fire up the engine, watch it as the engine dies, it should keep on flashing till the engine just about stops turning if the electrics are OK
The instant it stops give the carb a shot of carb cleaner, if it fires right up keep on giving it VERY SHORT SHOTS of carb cleaner. If you can keep the engine running then you have fuel delivery problem.


#5

EngineMan

EngineMan

So repair or replace the clutch and replace the solenoid should get you back running again.


#6

G

Golf Pro 61

Any idea how to repair it. The video's I saw online said it if the ohms were low it needed replaced.
Dave


#7

EngineMan

EngineMan

Then I would replace it.


#8

G

Golf Pro 61

EngineMan said:
Then I would replace it.
Click to expand...

I was wrong about the clutch I think. I was using a analog ohm meter and was getting zero I used my neighbors
digital and it is showing 3.2 ohms. I also took it to parts / repair shop and talked to them they checked it as well and it should be fine, sold me a PTO switch. So I set the gaps exactly as spec said .016 put back on installed new switch and same result pull the PTO switch and the clutch kicks in blades run about 3-4 seconds then shut off. With the motor off and the PTO switch pulled up when I turn the key on most times it clicks at the clutch but not always. Any suggestions.
I really appreciate the help. This thing is getting to me I must admit.
Dave


#9

EngineMan

EngineMan

It seems you need to find out how many Amps are being pulled when you turn on the clutch, put a Amp meter in line with the circuit breaker, if its pulling more then the circuit breaker Amp size the circuit breaker will open, which means the clutch is pulling too many Amps and is bad, or you have a short in the wiring from the clutch switch to clutch. I may well be wrong here, but its worth doing a Amp check...! or you can check with a meter to see if the power goes off on the load side of the circuit breaker when the clutch stops...!


#10

G

Golf Pro 61

EngineMan said:
It seems you need to find out how many Amps are being pulled when you turn on the clutch, put a Amp meter in line with the circuit breaker, if its pulling more then the circuit breaker Amp size the circuit breaker will open, which means the clutch is pulling too many Amps and is bad, or you have a short in the wiring from the clutch switch to clutch. I may well be wrong here, but its worth doing a Amp check...! or you can check with a meter to see if the power goes off on the load side of the circuit breaker when the clutch stops...!
Click to expand...

Thanks I connected a continuity meter to the breaker and it is tripping when the clutch quits so it sounds like the breaker is shutting down the entire system. I don't have a Amp meter to see how many amps it is pulling. Is it worth me buying one ? I will also see if I can borrow one from a friend.
Dave

Looks like new one OEM is around $300 best I can find online. How about the non OEM units any good?
Dave


#11

EngineMan

EngineMan

I am looking at the fact that you posted up "Mower would not start after replacing circuit breaker" try with a inline fuse holder with the same Amp fuse ( by past the circuit breaker) to see if that fuse blows, if that doesn't then you will know that the problem is with the circuit breaker you have cutting out, I know sometimes you can have circuit breakers that are too sensitive or the clutch (something) is pulling more then the rating amps, you need to know what made the first one burn out, was it just a bad connection or was it something like the (clutch) pulling too many Amps, or is there something wrong with the wiring, or even switchers. what is the circuit breaker rating, is it around 60Amps...?

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#12

G

Golf Pro 61

Golf Pro 61 said:
I have a snapper 18 hp courage 44" deck model 1694454. Mower would not start. I found a broken wire on breaker so replaced breaker and connections. Motor started no problem thought I was done but it will only run between 5 & 30 seconds before stopping. When cold it will run longer when hot after trying to keep it running it will run shorter time. During this time I just let it run did not drive to driver or engage PTO. It will drive no problem but same result. Try to engage PTO same result just short runs. I have replaced the fuel filter and pump no difference. I tested PTO switch it appears to be fine. After it runs briefly with the key on motor not running if I pull the PTO switch up it won't click till I do it a few times. This makes me think it is electrical?
I forgot to mention I did unplug the clutch just see if it made a difference it did not. Motor still runs a short period.
How can I determine if it is a electrical problem or a motor problem? Thanks for any help.
Dave
Click to expand...

This was resolved it was a bad fuel shut off valve.


#13

EngineMan

EngineMan

Was it indeed, something new everyday......:thumbsup:


#14

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Boudreaux In Eunice La.

Like Bert says all the time, Ignition issues go straight to fuel issues......

That's why he recommends an order of diagnostics tests instead of guessing and throwing parts at the engine........

Some smaller engines such as Briggs 3 to 7 HP are more easier to diagnose than the bigger stuff..........

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!


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