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The two pics are the new one I just popped in and the other outside is the old one to show I'm using the same carb, although not exactly like the original which has a thermostat connection on the exhaust, I guess to the choke(?) so apparently it works as it has with the choke open and not controlled by anything.

Anyway, with new plug and new carb replaced I've still got this start but stalls shortly after. By default the throttle and choke rest open.

The old plug looked wet though idk how wet it should be. I presume the new plug will look the same. Starting now with new carb and spark it's barely running before it stalls. What should I check/do now?

Here's a video for a audio/visual test

in order to run an engine needs compression, a reasonable air to good fuel ratio, and spark. Whenever an engine fails to run the first step is to determine which is missing of the three. If you just guess then you will be there for a long time. I would pull the air cleaner off and see if the choke is opening when it starts. If not then use a screwdriver to hold it open and try again. If it then runs something is wrong with the choke. If the air cleaner is dirty or the fuel old, that will make it hard for a mower to run.

Get some way to keep the choke wide open and see how it runs. Without a connection to the choke thermostat there is nothing keeping the choke open. With the choke being loose, once the engine starts the drawn in air simply closes it.

The new and the old carb look the same. What happened to the link that connected the choke on the original carb to the choke thermostat on the muffler?

Thanks for the tips. I will look more carefully into the choke. Til now I've been running it with nothing controlling the choke so I'm assuming it's been just hanging open. Maybe it's been closing unnecessarily? I did order a coil so just in case otherwise I'll keep it on hand

That plug is waay wet. As in carb needle sticking open wet. Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel in the oil.

How much was the Amazon carb?

slomo said:

That plug is waay wet. As in carb needle sticking open wet. Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel in the oil.

How much was the Amazon carb?

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The wet plug is from old carb actually

Okay. So new plug, got spark, well, a little red light from my spark tester. Don't know if that's conclusive. Should it be so bright? New coil, current plug not wet, new fuel filter...

It WAS at least starting, now nothing. What's next?

Should the coil touch the flywheel? There's room in the bolt holes to adjust

Coil should be 0.010" off the MAGNETS .

bertsmobile1 said:

Coil should be 0.010" off the MAGNETS .

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Got that. No difference. This one's puzzling.

How do you reliably check for proper fuel to cylinder? There's only vacuum force to pull it right? Do you just check the spark plug or should I stick a camera up to the open air box? I sure smell fuel when I attempt to start it. I've assumed that was enough confirmation

I can check for compression too but would I notice it turning over easier if that were the case?

What about timing?

Could the exhaust be so gunked up to interfere with proper air flow?

So I should mention it is hard to pull the rope/turn the engine over. Maybe something deep going on like bent shaft or something? I have to start pulling slow to make sure it catches otherwise it gets stuck. Is this something common related to a particular issue?

juntjoo said:

I sure smell fuel when I attempt to start it

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Carb needle sticking open.

juntjoo said:

So I should mention it is hard to pull the rope/turn the engine over.

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Maybe hydrolocking the cylinder.

Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel. If it smell like gas, clean or replace the needle/seat in the carb. This was mentioned previously with no action on your part.

Sescond try, where did you get this "new" carb" from?

slomo said:

Carb needle sticking open.

Maybe hydrolocking the cylinder.

Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel. If it smell like gas, clean or replace the needle/seat in the carb. This was mentioned previously with no action on your part.

Sescond try, where did you get this "new" carb" from?

Click to expand...

slomo said:

Carb needle sticking open.

Maybe hydrolocking the cylinder.

Pull the oil dipstick and smell for fuel. If it smell like gas, clean or replace the needle/seat in the carb. This was mentioned previously with no action on your part.

Sescond try, where did you get this "new" carb" from?

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Sorry, must have missed that but it's a new carb from Amazon. Couldn't tell you any more than that. I punched in xt675 and it came up. There is fuel smell in the oil but it must have been from the old carb. With current one plug isn't getting wet and its new too. Currently not getting spark though. This is quite puzzling.

"sheered flywheel key". That's what I'm going to look into next. They said it often is from abuse and I kinda have abused my mower.

juntjoo said:

Sorry, must have missed that but it's a new carb from Amazon. Couldn't tell you any more than that. I punched in xt675 and it came up.

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Those carbs are a 50/50 gamble. Might work might not. Best to boil clean your OEM carb and replace needed parts.

juntjoo said:

There is fuel smell in the oil but it must have been from the old carb.

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No way of confirming that for sure. You have fuel in the oil, yes. Fix the carb first then dump the oil a couple times. Do NOT use the mower until these 2 are done. Gas dilutes the oil........

juntjoo said:

With current one plug isn't getting wet and its new too.

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All new parts require testing. New isn't new anymore.

juntjoo said:

Currently not getting spark though. This is quite puzzling.

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Pull the kill wire off the coil. Engine should run the tank dry if you have spark. Need to load test your coil. Over gap an old plug at 1/4" (0.250") wide. Test plug grounded out for spark.

Air, fuel, spark and compression are necessary.

try it with the spark plug removed and see if it spins freely. Do it outside in case there is fuel in the cylinder. If fuel mists out, check the oil level and if it smells like gasoline.

Choke?

VegetiveSteam said:

Choke?

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That definitely needs to be looked at.

On a carb, the round plate closest to the air filter is the choke plate. Round'ish plate closest to the engine is the throttle plate.

slomo said:

That definitely needs to be looked at.

On a carb, the round plate closest to the air filter is the choke plate. Round'ish plate closest to the engine is the throttle plate.

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I've got it held open.

About to start over after soaking my old carb in acetone. Just wanted to post this while waiting. Haven't seen any vids on checking these. How does it look?

If you're talking flywheel key, the flywheel needs to come off to know for sure.

Old carb cleaned seemed to do the trick. Works now

Another satisfied customer.