I have the Freedom Z, 48" mower. Here recently when I engage the blades, they will disengage after 2 or 3 seconds. They'll work again once I turn the deck clutch off and on. Sometimes, this will happen 2 or 3 times before they finally stay engaged. Any ideas on where to begin looking for a problem? By the way, the belt completely stops so it's not a belt slippage. Thanks.
#2
Homer1
Sounds a lot like a switch issue to me. You could try and check to see if something's coming loose under the switch, or debris has lodged in preventing contact somehow.
I just went through a fiasco with my seat switch doing the same on the freedom z, and all of a sudden after unplugging it a few times it just started working again. It was packed with dielectric grease.
Not saying it's not the clutch itself that may require some maintenance or a wiring issue at that point, but I'd start with the switch.
How many hours and what year is it. Did it just start all of a sudden?
A few comments/questions:
Do you power wash this machine and if you do, do you get the electric clutch or any of the electrical connectors wet?
Do you have a multi-meter and if so, do you know how to use it?
Check the battery voltage engine not running, should be 12.5 VDC or so.
Check the battery voltage engine running at full throttle, should be 13.5 VDC or higher to a max of 14.5 VDC.
Replace both fuses, some Freedom Zs have only one fuse, depends on the model.
Disconnect the wire connector to the clutch and with a multi-meter in the low ohms selection, check the resistance of the clutch electric coil, should be no less than 2.4 to 2.8 Ohms depending on clutch manufacturer. Ogura, 2.4 Ohms, Warner 2.8 Ohms.
Still with the multi-meter in low ohms, check from each of the two clutch connector terminals to ground on the machine. You should get infinity or no reading, if you get any reading, the clutch coil may be shorted to ground.
I the clutch coil resistance is lower than the above readings or is shorted to ground, then you need a new clutch.
Some clutches have an adjustable air gap that if out of adjustment, can cause the clutch to overheat as this air gap adjustment is for the brake in the clutch which engages when the power from the PTO switch is turned off.
These procedures only check the charging system, the fuses and the clutch.
Thanks for the replies. Haven't had a chance to look into your suggestions although I read them. I think I determined that the issue is a weak/dead battery. I've been jumping off my mower for a couple months because I didn't want to buy a new battery until next Spring. This past weekend, it was a chilly 58. I jumped the mower and of course, the PTO would only engage for a couple of seconds. It finally engaged for good after the mower ran a while, and I switched on my lights and it disengaged. That told me that the issue was probably power related. I left the mower on a charger overnight and started the engine yesterday. The PTO engaged and stayed engaged. So, I'm almost positive the battery is the issue. I'm still going to wait until Spring for a new battery. I'm sure I'll only mow 2 or 3 more times this year if the frost is on average schedule.
If you are running the engine at full throttle like you should be doing ?
The alternator should be able to supply more than enough power to run the clutch, even with no battery in place, so your problems might be a little deeper than you think.
If you are running the engine at full throttle like you should be doing ?
The alternator should be able to supply more than enough power to run the clutch, even with no battery in place, so your problems might be a little deeper than you think.
No telling how long your charging system has been fighting it. Hope your prediction is correct so that it doesn't have to deal with a dead short. I don't see where saving $100+ is worth the risk.
Next time you run the mower take voltage readings at the battery posts, engine running and engine off.
The engine running ones should be higher.
If not then check the voltage ( AC ) at the two outside terminals at the voltage rectifier should go around 24 to 40 volts AC.
If good then look carefully at the rectifier .
Usually there is a short strap running from it to one of the cowel bolts.
The bolt oft falls out and the strap oft breaks so no power back to the battery.
AFAIK the strap is not a service part, I can not get them down here so it is a short wire to replace it.
