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Motor will not turn over?

#1

T

tim2

I have a Bolens model number 13AM762F065, it was torn apart when I got it. The deck was off as well as missing a bunch of parts. The motor could not be turned over by hand. I ordered a bunch of parts and rebuilt the deck and drive system and mounted the deck. I tore into the motor to find the connecting rod broken, ordered it and most everything inside the engine and rebuilt it then remounted the motor. Now I cannot get the engine to turn over using the ignition switch, it will turn over if I run a hot wire from the battery to the started. I have not been able to get the spark plug to fire at all even though I cleaned the magneto and flywheel. I am thinking it must be a safety switch and hope that somebody can give me an idea of where the four switches are? If you have any other suggestions on what to check jump on in here and let me know.


#2

davbell22602

davbell22602

Can you jump the starter solonoid? If not it might be a bad solonoid. If so it might a bad ignition switch. Will the engine turn over with key when the parking brake is on? Far as safety switches you have clutch/brake, seat, PTO/blade, and if it hydro theres switch for it also. Have you checked the fuse?


#3

T

tim2

I put a brand new starter on the engine, I am not sure were the solenoid is located. The ignition switch has been tested and is good. The motor will not turn over using the key at all, even sitting on the seat with the brake pedal pushed all the way down. What fuse and where is it located? I can check that today if it ever stops raining here.


#4

davbell22602

davbell22602

Follow the thick red wire coming off the starter to the solonoid. Just hit both threaded posts with a screwdriver. The fuse holder will be in the wiring harness under/behind the dash/steering wheel. Try putting parking brake on and see if it will turn over.


#5

T

tim2

Well no new help. I looked for a fuse like the last poster said to, no fuse. Traced the red wire from the starter, cannot find a solenoid. The motor will not if a gorilla sits on the seat with the brake pedal depressed. I am sure hoping someone else chimes in soon with some help as my grass is in need of cutting.


#6

davbell22602

davbell22602

Post your engine number and mower model serial numbers so we can better help you.


#7

T

tybilly

take out your battery the solenoid may be under the fender wall,the fuse maybe close to that


#8

Carscw

Carscw

Follow the thick red wire (cable ) from the battery


#9

T

tim2

Thanks for a few more replies. The Georgia weather is not helping much right now, cool and raining for the third day in a row. The mower is a Bolens 38" cut model# 13AM762F065. Briggs & Stratton 31A607-0458-E1. I will get out there in a little bit and do some more looking around and remove the battery again and see what I might have missed under the fender wells. Hopefully I might run into the fuse or solenoid, and the fuse is bad and that is the problem. I am really hoping it is a safety switch that I just have not tracked down yet. The previous owner really took this mower down to nuts and bolts and never reassembled anything. It really acts like one of the safety switches because when you sit on the seat, hold the brake down and turn the key you get nothing from the engine at all. If I run a hot wire from the battery to the starter the motor turns over fine but does not have any spark. I sure hope this LONG post gives someone else amore insight to what I am dealing with. Thanks for your replies and help.


#10

Carscw

Carscw

tim2 said:
Thanks for a few more replies. The Georgia weather is not helping much right now, cool and raining for the third day in a row. The mower is a Bolens 38" cut model# 13AM762F065. Briggs & Stratton 31A607-0458-E1. I will get out there in a little bit and do some more looking around and remove the battery again and see what I might have missed under the fender wells. Hopefully I might run into the fuse or solenoid, and the fuse is bad and that is the problem. I am really hoping it is a safety switch that I just have not tracked down yet. The previous owner really took this mower down to nuts and bolts and never reassembled anything. It really acts like one of the safety switches because when you sit on the seat, hold the brake down and turn the key you get nothing from the engine at all. If I run a hot wire from the battery to the starter the motor turns over fine but does not have any spark. I sure hope this LONG post gives someone else amore insight to what I am dealing with. Thanks for your replies and help.
Click to expand...

Where in ga are you?
If your close to dalton I can come give you a hand.


#11

T

tim2

Carscw, that would be an offer I could not refuse but I live in Hinesville. So we are more then 4 hours apart. If I cannot figure it out I might load it up on a trailer and drag it to Powder Springs and take you up on the offer. I am getting ready to fire up the coffee pot for my wife and head to the garage and take another look for the fuse and safety switch connections and try jumping them across to see if that does anything. I will keep you posted.


#12

T

tim2

If I find the fuse holder and it is empty what amperage fuse should be in it? I am going out the door now. Will be back in a few to let you know what I find.


#13

Carscw

Carscw

tim2 said:
If I find the fuse holder and it is empty what amperage fuse should be in it? I am going out the door now. Will be back in a few to let you know what I find.
Click to expand...

I use a 20amp fuse.


#14

T

tim2

WOOOOOOOHOOOOOOO..... I cannot say what I found is going to fix the problem but it sure narrows it down. The fuse holed is under the seat behind the battery. The previous owner has the wires cut up and lots of nicks through the coating and there is no buss fuse in the holder. So I will be rewiring the fuse holder so it is making a good connection. If anyone knows what amp fuse should be in there I might be able to attempt to start the engine later today. Thanks for all the help and guidance so far, hope someone knows what size fuse it needs. Again thank you so very much.


#15

davbell22602

davbell22602

I use 30amp fuse. All always seen 30amp fuses in riding mowers.


#16

T

tim2

Thank you Carscw...... I will get after it in a bit and let you know how it woks out.


#17

T

tim2

Its alive........... I rewired the fuse holder put in a 30 amp fuse installed the battery and crossed my fingers. Turned the key and the motor turned over!!!!!!!!!! Now I need to wait for the sun to come up and I will attempt to start her up and cut a little winter rye grass that is growing crazy in the back of the house. Again thanks to everyone that has pointed my in the correct direction to get it to at least turn over like it is suppose too.


#18

Carscw

Carscw

tim2 said:
Its alive........... I rewired the fuse holder put in a 30 amp fuse installed the battery and crossed my fingers. Turned the key and the motor turned over!!!!!!!!!! Now I need to wait for the sun to come up and I will attempt to start her up and cut a little winter rye grass that is growing crazy in the back of the house. Again thanks to everyone that has pointed my in the correct direction to get it to at least turn over like it is suppose too.
Click to expand...

Good job. Let's us know how it runs.
I use a 20 amp fuse because a 30 amp will still let a wire melt or get week.


#19

T

tim2

Well yesterday got very busy and I did not get home until late. I attempted to start the mower and it keeps back firing through the carb. So what did I do, sat there looking at it and drank a beer! I am thinking I either missed the timing by one revolution or one of the valve push rods is not making contact with the valve. Any other suggestions? We have a BBQ going this afternoon with some neighbors so that will limit my time again today. I am thinking about pulling the motor and opening it back up and removing the drive gear for the valves and rotating the crank one revolution, reassembling, mount motor and try to restart again. Let me know what you think you all have been a great help so far.


#20

T

tim2

My latest brainstorm. Could I just pull the head and then rotate the piston one complete revolution and reinstall the head? I am thinking instead of a complete motor removal and disassembly that this might work also. Let me know what you guys think.


#21

jhngardner367

jhngardner367

First,check the air gap for the coil(s). They should be 0.010". Also,try spraying some fuel into the intake,while rolling it over.and see if it runs,or backfires. If it backfires through the intake you could have a valve hanging up.
If you pull the engine case apart, check the timing marks,carefully.


#22

T

tim2

Well I was hoping more people would give me there ideas. I guess today I will check the gap on the armature and pull the head off and see what I can find that might not be correct. I think it is a push rod that is not seated on the valve. I sure want to hear this thing running soon. Thanks for the advice, sure hoping for more.


#23

Fish

Fish

I would say that you should check your flywheel key now, it is probably sheared due to insufficient torque on the flywheel nut.


#24

T

tim2

I have spent the last three hours trying to figure out the problem. I checked the gaping, removed the flywheel and replaced the key. Neither helped but I had to try them. I just pulled the head back off and it looks like one of the pushrods was not seated in the cup inside the head. I am going to the store and get some sealant for the head gasket and give it another shot. I sure hope this corrects the issue.


#25

T

tim2

Well I am ready to junk this thing. I gaped the armature to .010, replace the fly wheel key, took off the head and then reassembled it. I got the push rods installed and try to start it. BACKFIRE through the carb again.......... So what else can I do? The only thing I can think of is pull the push rods and turn the motor one complete revolution and then reinstall the push rods and give it a try. Anyone with another idea pleaseeeeeee chime on in I need help.


#26

Fish

Fish

When you say you replaced the flywheel key, why did you? Was it sheared, or in one piece?


#27

T

tim2

I was just following your advice to check the torque and said I might as well check the key also. The key was slightly twisted due to the connecting rod breaking and it was sheared slightly. I have it all back together and still cannot get the motor to start. I believe it has to be in the timing but cannot for the life of me get it set correctly.


#28

T

tim2

I reckon it is time to tear the motor open again and check the marks on the gears one more time.


#29

T

tim2

Does anyone have the valve clearance measurement for a B&S 15.5hp motor? I would like to check that before I tear it all apart again.


#30

T

tybilly

tim2 said:
Does anyone have the valve clearance measurement for a B&S 15.5hp motor? I would like to check that before I tear it all apart again.
Click to expand...

go to mymowerparts.com you can download a manual pdf for that engine


#31

T

tim2

Well someone from another site save me the valve torque specs today. I adjusted them and got it to fire and attempt to run. I think the toque on the connecting rod is to tight. I have just finished taking the motor off and tomorrow I will open it up and try to loosen the toque and reassembly and give it another shot.


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