Mini engine parts broke this time
- Thread starter JimP2014
- Start date
So I just removed the head gasket + despite the valve guide traveling towards the valve cover abnormally I just removed the head gasket + it looked really good it looks almost brand new I don't see where anything is ruined on it but the specification changed I remember that for the cylinder head bolts it might have been 18 ft lb and then it changed to 20 ft lb I'm just going by memory but if I could be wrong and I'm just wondering the newest version of the cylinder head which I should be getting in a few days the higher torque whatever it is and I think it's 20 ft lb is for The newest version of their cylinder head? Even though this head gasket looks good I'd probably go with a brand new one.
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
Attachments
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Torque the head bolts to 20 Ft Lbs. in a criss cross pattern. Go in stages of 10, 15, then 20. This compresses the head gasket gradually and evenly to ensure a good seal.
Do not reuse the old head gasket because it has already been compressed and weakened due to age and heat cycles (throw it away).
The early B&S "tin foil" layered head gaskets on the flat head engine could be reused most of the time, but these newer soft composite head gaskets cannot.
Do not reuse the old head gasket because it has already been compressed and weakened due to age and heat cycles (throw it away).
The early B&S "tin foil" layered head gaskets on the flat head engine could be reused most of the time, but these newer soft composite head gaskets cannot.
Okay thank you auto Doc. And I have a brand new head gasket set But one thing I can say after troubleshooting quite often seemingly every summer there was always a question about does this ignition coil work you know and the troubleshooting steps and the one thing that Briggs& Stratton really built correctly was that old school ignition coil it survived everything.
Jim
One thing I wanted to mention and it might be Taryll did this but someone welded the valve guide instead of using the torx screw method and I was thinking if you add flux "inside" of things it would not run correctly. I am getting a new cylinder head soon from Walmart, but I would think flux inside the cylinder head assembly would mess up air flow/fuel flow etc. I think Taryll used it inside whereas the screw method is outside?
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hi Jim,
I've seen more failures with the coil kill wire harness diodes failing than I have the actual coils, especially on the V-twin models for B&S and Kawasaki. Kohler coils have had the most trouble for me in recent years.
The quality of the coil winding material makes all the difference. Copper clad aluminum strands break more readily than pure copper strands. The copper clad aluminum is cheaper to produce when it comes to the material costs.
Amazon, eBay vendors often sell bulk made coils because they are cheap and not made to last.
I believe you I'm only trying to fix this for myself but one constant has been that ignition coil.
