Sometimes I think I may go overboard on oiling so I wonder if I am the only one?! At least every other mowing or sometimes
every mowing task is started by oiling that includes every lever/pedal connection where movement occurs and medal meets medal. This is includes tie rod ends, steering gear, front axle pivot point and etc. One of the down sides is it attracts dust and globs up. The dust attracted by the oil could very well defeat the very purpose I'm trying to accomplish?
So I would like to open this up for discussion because if I'm doing more damage than good, I'd like to know. Thanks!
#2
ILENGINE
I think it is a level point. There is no really good way of knowing if it is doing damage or not. Only way that would be proven is if somebody oiled one part on their mower and left the same part on the same mower dry and see if there is a major difference. And if that part lasted longer was the increase in life significate enough to overcome the cost/time benefit.
Well I guess it's just something I'm inclined to do and feel better about doing it rather than not. I know some that are a lot more knowledgeable than me that never oil or grease and I can't help but wonder about that. Guess I'll continue since nobody scolded me real bad
I've seen a few things from both schools of thought and i oil / grease .
Being there is dirt not seen on dry fittings i grease / oil because i prefer lubricated dirt opposed to dry dirt .
A lawn tractor as an example . Steering rack / pinion bearing and sector gear . I've nearly mastered but I'm still looking for a good way to lube the sector gear pivot bearing .
#5
TonyPrin
I use a dry spray lubricant, specifically WD-40 Specialist Silicone at the start and 2-3 times during the season. Being a dry lube, it doesn't attract much dirt or clump. BTW, I typically use dry lube anywhere dust or dirt can be an issue, like bike chains.
I love grease & oil - nothing better than hearing that slight popping sound, as the fresh grease pushes out a smiggion of old BUT this is, for the most part, limited to bushes/bearing that have a grease nipple fitted.
Where no nipple fitted, best to leave clean & dry.
If you insist on lubricating, what should be a dry bushing, use graphite powder mixed, with a little oil, to a near dry past. Push the past into the bushing with a spatula (plastic, wood or even a flat screwdriver). The oil will help the graphite persist (continue lubricating) for longer than any of the wonder sprays and likely be a lot cheaper.
That's a new one on me. Graphite powder mixed with a little oil.
For non grease fitting lubricating, in the past I have been using 30 SAE oil applied with a oil squirt can.
Same oil that goes in the crank case. A little messy I reckon
Got a lot of options opened up now. Let me see Hmmmm
I was in Wally World tonight and was looking at the different spray lubricants but I couldn't remember what
was recommended, so I didn't get nothing. After I got home and looked at this thread.
I'm trying to decided between WD-40 Specialist White Lithium Grease or Silicone. The Lithium Grease says
it's good for metal to Metal and that's mostly what I would be using it for but I have a feeling the Silicone
would be a lot cleaner and less messy
The equipment designer/maker would have fitted a grease/oil fitting where lubrication is required.
Using a "wet" lube (oil/grease) will only attract dust.
Oil & dust makes grinding paste. Ideal for accelerating the wear of the component/part, you have so lovingly lubricated and creating the exact opposite of your good intentions.
If you feel compelled to use something, on what should be dry fittings, use graphite. Way cheaper and more effective, than all the "mechanics-in-a-can" that you have been brainwashed into purchasing. Graphite comes as a fine dust in a puffer dispenser - puff a little in/onto the joint/bush in question - more is just waste. If you want to force it into a bush - make up an almost dry past with some light oil & use a spatula/flat screwdriver/or similar to push it into the bush.
OK, Thanks! It seems before I would puff some graphite on the fittings I would need to
clean the gritty oil and dirt out of the fittings first. I got an aerosol carburetor cleaner that
might do the job or get some engine cleaner
This is the powdered graphite I use - comes from the hardware (not mower/automotive) store.
Note: Graphite is graphite. As long as its finely ground/powder, it will all be the same. Below is just the stuff I can find easily, pack size/shape/supply company will have no bearing on quality.
The nozzle will block easily - just hold the "bottle" vertical and tap it sharply down, on a hard surface, a couple of times, to free it up. Always put the cap back on to prevent moisture entry.
Do not be sucked in by the spray pack graphite - it's a con
Walmart only keep common crap.
Go to a real hardwear store, pay 10% more and feel good knowing the staff are treated well and some of the profits usually go to community groups
Plus if you stop going there then they close down and you will have to buy everything from Scamazon.
FWIW I use Dry Lithium spray grease rot all of those sorts of places
Sillycone is for plastics despite what it says on the can
CRC makes the best White Lithium grease and being white you will know what you have sprayed and what you are yet to do
I go through around 1/3 can on a full service of a tractor and about 1/2 that for a ZTR
Well what I did was buy the WD40 White Lithium Grease Spray. Thanks for everybody's recommendations. Had to make choice on something, so that's what I did!