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Made stupid mistake! What would my solution be to do now?

#1

S

satman858

Hi everyone,

Feel free to call me stupid because I know better. But when I took out my Gravely Promaster 44Z for the season I did a Engine oil and filter change. I mistakenly started put the SAEHD30 motor oil in to the Hydraulic intake and not the oil intake before I realized what a stupid mistake I was making. I only put about 4 oz but any oil that thick should not be good. My Hydraulic takes 20w/50w synthetic motor oil, but the SAE30HD is a much thicker oil. I know from reading the manual that not all of the fluid comes completely out of the system when bleeding, but I ordered a New Hydraulic oil filter and plan on bleeding the system and refilling it with the 20w/50w synthetic motor oil, but am not sure if that is the answer as to what all I need to do.

Any and all help is deeply appreciated.


#2

S

slomo

Top it off with the proper fluid. Drink a few cold ones. Not a big deal.

If you can't sleep, dump it out and pour in fresh.

You need to be worrying about the cooling fins and engine block being clean. This is a yearly to-do in yours and everyone else's engine manuals. I know, what cooling fins.......


#3

S

satman858

I would have thought that I could get some experience Moderators or Lawnmower mechanics to reply back to my post in this forum, and give suggestions to me. I guess I was wrong.


#4

S

slomo

satman858 said:
I would have thought that I could get some experience Moderators or Lawnmower mechanics to reply back to my post in this forum, and give suggestions to me. I guess I was wrong.
Click to expand...
Would you like me to fly to your house and fix it for free? Tough crowd.....


#5

B

bertsmobile1

satman858 said:
I would have thought that I could get some experience Moderators or Lawnmower mechanics to reply back to my post in this forum, and give suggestions to me. I guess I was wrong.
Click to expand...
Well the techs who read the reply to your post would have realised that was the correct answer , needed no embelichment and moved on to the nex problem.
Do you need 50,000 to tell you the same thing
Moderators moderate , they remove spam, shut down threads that hvae gotten out of control and warn people about being abusive.
They do not necessarily answer questions
20W50 is actually thicker at running temperature than strait 30
So now you have 20.05W 49.05 oil in your hydro
If it really urks you then rip them out drain the hydro oil and replace it.
And if you are parrinoid do it after each of your next 3 mows
Then go into the bathroom remove all your cloths and whip yourself till you bleed .


#6

S

satman858

bertsmobile1 said:
Well the techs who read the reply to your post would have realised that was the correct answer , needed no embelichment and moved on to the nex problem.
Do you need 50,000 to tell you the same thing
Moderators moderate , they remove spam, shut down threads that hvae gotten out of control and warn people about being abusive.
They do not necessarily answer questions
20W50 is actually thicker at running temperature than strait 30
So now you have 20.05W 49.05 oil in your hydro
If it really urks you then rip them out drain the hydro oil and replace it.
And if you are parrinoid do it after each of your next 3 mows
Then go into the bathroom remove all your cloths and whip yourself till you bleed .
Click to expand...


#7

S

satman858

bertsmobile1,
You know nothing about oil. For you to say that 20W/50W is thicker than the thickest motor oil made in SAE30HD only serves to show you do not know what you talking about. Your last line shows everyone how much of a sick pervert you must be.


#8

B

bertsmobile1

Actually I probably KNOW more about engine oils than 75% of the forum members all added tgether
20W 50 is a 20 weight oil at room temperature which thins down to the equivalent of a strait 50 wt oil at operating temperature which is around 100C depending upon which set of standards you are using
Thus at room temperature the 30 is thicker and at operating temperature the 30 is thinner.

Now if you had a quality mower with an Eatons transmission which uses hydro oil your silly mistake would be a problem that requires one if not 2 or 3 oil changes as hydraulic oils & engine oils do not mix and may form an emulsion which is not good.
You gat a perfectly sound answer then came back demanding more
So you got more
As your seem to begging for some sort of punishment then the self inflicted punishment of some orders of monks to cleanse their souls would appear to be appropriate
Oh and engine oils go up to SAE 90.
Harley oil is SAE 75W 90 for the older bikes
BP still make ther monogrades 10 centipoise incriments from SAE 10 up to SAE 90 usually labled "Coarse XY" . They used to have a coarse 100 & coarse 120 but I have not seen that for 15 ish years
I use Coarse 50 & Coarse 90 it in some of my veteran total loss engines
Hence the supposedly humourous 20.05W 49.05 allowing for the dilution factor .

And I do not pretend to be holier than the Pope.
If I was a pervert then I would have suggested you make a video of you doing it .


#9

R

Rivets

You made a mistake, but not one that cannot be remedied. Bert is right, your question was answered and there was no reason for any other techs to chime in. I’m surprised that some DIY guy has not sent you down a path which may have cost you big money and a lot of time. I don’t know what answers you were looking for, but the title of this thread tells us everything we need to know about you. You came here for free help and then when given you are not smart enough to understand the answers given, which was the second stupid mistake you made. If you don’t like the answer, don’t ask the question.


#10

StarTech

StarTech

Correct. Multiple viscosity oil are design to act as lighter oil at cold temps and like thicker oils are higher temps. All oils thin as they are heated. Multi viscosity just make the oil flow more freely at lower temps. A single grade just get thicker at lower temp and thinner at higher temp.

And I recently brought some SAE140 by mistake when I was needing SAE85-140 multi viscosity gear oil. I had to exchange it for the correct blend.


#11

S

satman858

bertsmobile1 said:
Actually I probably KNOW more about engine oils than 75% of the forum members all added tgether
20W 50 is a 20 weight oil at room temperature which thins down to the equivalent of a strait 50 wt oil at operating temperature which is around 100C depending upon which set of standards you are using
Thus at room temperature the 30 is thicker and at operating temperature the 30 is thinner.

Now if you had a quality mower with an Eatons transmission which uses hydro oil your silly mistake would be a problem that requires one if not 2 or 3 oil changes as hydraulic oils & engine oils do not mix and may form an emulsion which is not good.
You gat a perfectly sound answer then came back demanding more
So you got more
As your seem to begging for some sort of punishment then the self inflicted punishment of some orders of monks to cleanse their souls would appear to be appropriate
Oh and engine oils go up to SAE 90.
Harley oil is SAE 75W 90 for the older bikes
BP still make ther monogrades 10 centipoise incriments from SAE 10 up to SAE 90 usually labled "Coarse XY" . They used to have a coarse 100 & coarse 120 but I have not seen that for 15 ish years
I use Coarse 50 & Coarse 90 it in some of my veteran total loss engines
Hence the supposedly humourous 20.05W 49.05 allowing for the dilution factor .

And I do not pretend to be holier than the Pope.
If I was a pervert then I would have suggested you make a video of you doing it .
Click to expand...
First of the Pope is not holy at all. He as all Pope's that claim to be a Vica of Christ only serves him to be as the Bible says an anti-christ. Don't get into a Bible debate with me that you can never win.

By the way, check this chart out below as Sae30HD is even thicker than all these on the list.

Attachments





#12

S

satman858

StarTech said:
Correct. Multiple viscosity oil are design to act as lighter oil at cold temps and like thicker oils are higher temps. All oils thin as they are heated. Multi viscosity just make the oil flow more freely at lower temps. A single grade just get thicker at lower temp and thinner at higher temp.

And I recently brought some SAE140 by mistake when I was needing SAE85-140 multi viscosity gear oil. I had to exchange it for the correct blend.
Click to expand...
Star Tech,
I was hoping I would pull you out and have you chime in, by suckering in some of these knucklehead know-it-all trolls that like degrading a person when they think that know more than people. I have been a member of this forum for almost 10 years, so I know much more than they think I do. The only reason I asked this question was because I was possibly thinking that I just might go ahead and change the cheap 20 buck Ariens Hydro filter and re-purge the Hydraulic system since I already have a 5 gallon jug of Mobil15W50 synthetic oil. You know from other threads that I have done this process a number of times in having Hydraulic hoses blow out over the years. Thank you my friend, as I am going right now and change out the filter and oil for safety sake. Here in south Louisiana we have 100 degree temperatures with 90+ humidity every summer. It was Hell hot and 87 degrees just the other day. LOL

Here below from a year agoo is just one thread in which you were a helped me with your no nonsense feedback.

www.lawnmowerforum.com

Hydraulic purging for a 15 year old Gravely Promaster 44Z

Hi everyone, I just changed out a Hydraulic hose line that leaked out to the point of losing power, and now I am about to add some Mobile One 15W50 Synthetic motor oil as recommended in my manual. Since I am not doing a complete oil filter change, because it was changed last year, that knowing...
www.lawnmowerforum.com www.lawnmowerforum.com


#13

B

bertsmobile1

satman858 said:
First of the Pope is not holy at all. He as all Pope's that claim to be a Vica of Christ only serves him to be as the Bible says an anti-christ. Don't get into a Bible debate with me that you can never win.

By the way, check this chart out below as Sae30HD is even thicker than all these on the list.
Click to expand...
I have no idea where you got that chart from but oil is a liquid
Being a liquid is has NO SPECIFIC DENSITY because all liquids expand with increasing temperatures
the viscosity index is nothing more than the amount of time it takes for a specified volume of oil to drain through a specified size funnel . or the volume of oil that passes through the funnel in a fixed period of time depending upon which set of standards you are working with .
Nominally this is done at 20 or 25 degress C ( again depending upon which standard you are using )
So 30 is 30 at room temperature
30 W ( anything ) is also 30 at room temperature
How fast they pass through the funnel is not directly proportional to the thichness it is a function of the viscious friction of the liquid and the adheasive / cohesives forces of the molecules plus the surface tension
The numbers have no real direct comparrison to the function of the oil in srvice they are used to compare one oil to another oil and to gie the machine operator a rough ide which mifgr work in their application.
This is why there is such a big overlap between different grades
Cute pretty chart but without the measuring parrameters is totally useless .
And all of the oils listed are multigrades so if SAE30 is on the chart you have failed to post that section.
And with this I shall pop you onto the IGNORE list as it is obvious you are a hero worshiper and the only out come you would accept was to have your hero ( Startech ) answer your questions. And if you read his reply objectively you will see it is exactlythe same as what you were already told .
Good luck


#14

C

CaptFerd

Manufactures use multi weight oils to accommodate the various climates of the world the sell theirs machines. They will also brand that oil, put dye in it and sell it for a ridiculous price and threaten your warranty if not used. My personal mower requires the same as yours. Ive been running SAE 30 in the tranny and it performs better than the recommended 20 / 50 oil. The manufacturers arent always right or honest. Their in the business of profit. If you drain it and waste whats in it then you are stupid like you say. SloMo was right do as he says.


#15

M

mdupre07

I work for a Gravely dealer and we recommend 15w50 full synthetic motor oil in the hydros. No blends. Here in the deep south, climate has a lot to do with the weights. If you look in a typical owners manual, it may say different, as the manual was written for where it was manufactured - up north. Hope this helps.


#16

D

dutch1134

satman858 said:
Hi everyone,

Feel free to call me stupid because I know better. But when I took out my Gravely Promaster 44Z for the season I did a Engine oil and filter change. I mistakenly started put the SAEHD30 motor oil in to the Hydraulic intake and not the oil intake before I realized what a stupid mistake I was making. I only put about 4 oz but any oil that thick should not be good. My Hydraulic takes 20w/50w synthetic motor oil, but the SAE30HD is a much thicker oil. I know from reading the manual that not all of the fluid comes completely out of the system when bleeding, but I ordered a New Hydraulic oil filter and plan on bleeding the system and refilling it with the 20w/50w synthetic motor oil, but am not sure if that is the answer as to what all I need to do.

Any and all help is deeply appreciated.
Click to expand...
I would imagine that is a somewhat common mistake. Personally, I believe your plan of action would probably be acceptable. I once put hydraulic oil in my hydro reservoir. I finally read the manual much later after destroying the seals. NOW, THAT was stupid.


#17

S

satman858

bertsmobile1 said:
I have no idea where you got that chart from but oil is a liquid
Being a liquid is has NO SPECIFIC DENSITY because all liquids expand with increasing temperatures
the viscosity index is nothing more than the amount of time it takes for a specified volume of oil to drain through a specified size funnel . or the volume of oil that passes through the funnel in a fixed period of time depending upon which set of standards you are working with .
Nominally this is done at 20 or 25 degress C ( again depending upon which standard you are using )
So 30 is 30 at room temperature
30 W ( anything ) is also 30 at room temperature
How fast they pass through the funnel is not directly proportional to the thichness it is a function of the viscious friction of the liquid and the adheasive / cohesives forces of the molecules plus the surface tension
The numbers have no real direct comparrison to the function of the oil in srvice they are used to compare one oil to another oil and to gie the machine operator a rough ide which mifgr work in their application.
This is why there is such a big overlap between different grades
Cute pretty chart but without the measuring parrameters is totally useless .
And all of the oils listed are multigrades so if SAE30 is on the chart you have failed to post that section.
And with this I shall pop you onto the IGNORE list as it is obvious you are a hero worshiper and the only out come you would accept was to have your hero ( Startech ) answer your questions. And if you read his reply objectively you will see it is exactlythe same as what you were already told .
Good luck
Click to expand...
The problem with your replies is your know-it-all self righteous attitude and the way you explain yourself. You have some serious issues, dude! I am glad I am now on your ignore list. lol


#18

S

satman858

I replaced the Hydro filter, refilled it with the Mobile 1 15w50 full synthetic motor oil I had left from my 5 quart container, and purge the system by way of the bypass valves. I cut my 2 acres of land here at home, and everything turned out great.

Thanks for all the helpful replies to my post. Moderators feel free to close the thread if you like.


#19

R

Rivets

Satman, your reply to Bert tells me that you just made a third mistake. You came here looking for help after you made a stupid mistake. When you don’t like the replies you received you start bad mouthing the techs who are not only try to help you, but any others who may also have done the same thing. The experienced techs on this site have probably forgotten more than you will know on how to repair small engine equipment. You are the one with serious issues and Bert deserves an apology from someone who keeps on making mistakes and doesn’t know when they are wrong. You can now add me to your ignore list and pray that you don’t make any more mistakes.


#20

S

satman858

Rivets said:
Satman, your reply to Bert tells me that you just made a third mistake. You came here looking for help after you made a stupid mistake. When you don’t like the replies you received you start bad mouthing the techs who are not only try to help you, but any others who may also have done the same thing. The experienced techs on this site have probably forgotten more than you will know on how to repair small engine equipment. You are the one with serious issues and Bert deserves an apology from someone who keeps on making mistakes and doesn’t know when they are wrong. You can now add me to your ignore list and pray that you don’t make any more mistakes.
Click to expand...
Rivets,
I am glad you put me on your ignore list, as from this reply you have an equally unkind attitude toward people and deserve no respect. It is people like you that give forums made to help people bad names. Any mouthing I did was truly deserved for disrespecting me first. I am the one needing an apology from Bert as well as you for leaving replies like you just did. I am glad I won't be hearing back from you since I am now on your ignore list. By the way, in less than 2 months it will be 10 years since I became a member of this Lawnmower forum, so I think I well might know more about Lawnmower than you think I do.

By they way, my 17 year old 2006 Gravely Promaster 44Z is not still running good, because I don't know anything about lawnmowers.


#21

R

Rivets

I now see why you made your first stupid mistake as you can’t read either. I said YOU can add me to your ignore list. Second, if you would look I’ve been here for over 11 years, plus I’ve got over 50 years of working on small engines and small engine equipment. I know that Bert is probably the most respected member of this forum and he doesn’t need any help standing up for his replies, but I can tell you that you can find hundreds of members who have thanked him for his help, myself included. I’m not going to ignore you, as I want to see your next mistake.


#22

S

satman858

Rivets said:
I now see why you made your first stupid mistake as you can’t read either. I said YOU can add me to your ignore list. Second, if you would look I’ve been here for over 11 years, plus I’ve got over 50 years of working on small engines and small engine equipment. I know that Bert is probably the most respected member of this forum and he doesn’t need any help standing up for his replies, but I can tell you that you can find hundreds of members who have thanked him for his help, myself included. I’m not going to ignore you, as I want to see your next mistake.
Click to expand...
So I misread you about the ignore statement you made. I stand up to my mistakes as this thread title is proof of that. I am sorry for one thing. It is that I am not prefect as you are and never make mistakes. WOW!!! you been here a year longer than I have. Want a dinky button. If Bert or you can't help someone without insulting them, you should just move on and not reply at all. Since I am not on your ignore list please put me on it.


#23

R

Rivets

Sorry, ain’t going to happen. Enjoy watching you dig your hole deeper.


#24

S

satman858

Rivets said:
Sorry, ain’t going to happen. Enjoy watching you dig your hole deeper.
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The only thing you are watching is your hand typing keys on your keyboard.


#25

H

hlw49

satman858 said:
bertsmobile1,
You know nothing about oil. For you to say that 20W/50W is thicker than the thickest motor oil made in SAE30HD only serves to show you do not know what you talking about. Your last line shows everyone how much of a sick pervert you must be.
Click to expand...
Multi-viscosity oils use chemicals called viscosity index improvers to allow the oil to flow differently at different temperatures. For example, they allow a 20W-50 oil to behave like a 20-weight oil when cold and a 50-weight oil when warm.J It was explained like this to me it acts kinda like spagetthi when dry if shrinks and when hot wet it expands. The viscosity improvers shrink when cold and expand when hot.


#26

S

slomo

satman858 said:
By they way, my 17 year old 2006 Gravely Promaster 44Z is not still running good, because I don't know anything about lawnmowers.
Click to expand...
Not surprised.


#27

S

satman858

hlw49 said:
Multi-viscosity oils use chemicals called viscosity index improvers to allow the oil to flow differently at different temperatures. For example, they allow a 20W-50 oil to behave like a 20-weight oil when cold and a 50-weight oil when warm.J It was explained like this to me it acts kinda like spagetthi when dry if shrinks and when hot wet it expands. The viscosity improvers shrink when cold and expand when hot.

Now that makes complete sense. Even the owners manual says that using multi-grade oils for my engine will increase oil consumption, and to check the oil level more frequently when using them. That is why the Gravely dealer told me 17 years ago when I bought my Gravely new, to use SAE30 because of our very hot and humid climate. Thank you for your reply, hlw49.
Click to expand...


#28

S

satman858

slomo said:
Not surprised.
Click to expand...
Not surprised for what? That cleaning the top of the block and cooling fins periodically worked for me to make make Gravely mower last this long.


#29

S

slomo

satman858 said:
Not surprised for what? That cleaning the top of the block and cooling fins periodically worked for me to make make Gravely mower last this long.
Click to expand...
Love the drive you have. Just wish it pertained to mowers of some kind. Now go fix your mower. (y)


#30

S

satman858

slomo said:
Love the drive you have. Just wish it pertained to mowers of some kind. Now go fix your mower. (y)
Click to expand...
Read my other post Slomo, the mower is fixed. (y)

Satman,
I replaced the Hydro filter, refilled it with the Mobile 1 15w50 full synthetic motor oil I had left from my 5 quart container, and purge the system by way of the bypass valves. I cut my 2 acres of land here at home, and everything turned out great.


#31

S

slomo

satman858 said:
Read my other post Slomo, the mower is fixed. (y)

Satman,
I replaced the Hydro filter, refilled it with the Mobile 1 15w50 full synthetic motor oil I had left from my 5 quart container, and purge the system by way of the bypass valves. I cut my 2 acres of land here at home, and everything turned out great.
Click to expand...
I'm proud of you sir. Did it all on you own.

Can't wait to see what knowledge you are going to dump on us next. 🍿🍿🍿🍺🍺🍺


#32

S

satman858

slomo said:
I'm proud of you sir. Did it all on you own.

Can't wait to see what knowledge you are going to dump on us next. 🍿🍿🍿🍺🍺🍺
Click to expand...
Your signature below is elementary school knowledge, so you have no room to talk. :sleep::sleep::sleep:

Have you ever pulled the metal engine shroud and cleaned the top of the block and cooling fins?


#33

S

slomo

satman858 said:
Your signature below is elementary school knowledge, so you have no room to talk. :sleep::sleep::sleep:

Have you ever pulled the metal engine shroud and cleaned the top of the block and cooling fins?
Click to expand...
Right up there with your oil mistake LOL. 🤡

Put your juice box down and type something amusing.


#34

S

slomo

You know satman858, I just looked at all your "elementary" posts on here. Like the one where you are begging for help, wait for it............ removing your carburetor off your tired old worn out Gravley mower. NASA is calling you LOL LOL LOL.

Next post was YOU, asking about "how do I read the hydro dipstick". You even typed or pasted the directions all out on here and still couldn't figure it out.

Several other posts are about hydraulic oils, hoses and filter wrenches, all for your hydraulic system on the Gravely.

And YOU, bought a mower that you have no way to get it professionally repaired. Now we have to put up with your dull comedy and dumb questions here. Why, because you are a flake. End of message. o_O:geek::ROFLMAO:


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