Export thread

I am trying to simplifying the wiring on the 176. Not getting a strong spark off the kawaski to fire. Replaced coil and igniter already. I am thinking there is other issues. Any help appreciated.

A "strong spark?" How are you determining it is weak? IMO wiring should be checked before tearing anything out or trying new routing.

You should get a good 1/4 inch of jump of spark if it is strong.

delwaysta said:

I am trying to simplifying the wiring on the 176. Not getting a strong spark off the kawaski to fire. Replaced coil and igniter already. I am thinking there is other issues. Any help appreciated.

Click to expand...

On my LX188 the plug to the voltage regulator was bad.
If yours has this pull it apart to see if it looks like this.

I have no spark per say. Going to ohm out igniter and replacement coil and check magnet for cracks. Already bypassed seat and have p- brake locked but not sure if I am going about it right. Tried starting with v- regulator unplugged to see if it would start. But no. Was the answer I got. Pulling what remaining hair I have. I really don't want to swap out engines. Like the kawa it seems to run good when it ran.

You are saying you changed the coil and the timing module (igniter) you are getting spark but its weak? Now you did set the coil air gap right. You didn't install the new coil upside down? You have nothing left here if you are getting a weak spark, so I would say the new coil is bad.

I forgot to tell you also when you are testing the ignition for spark always isolate the engine from the chassis so you know what you are looking for engine problem or chassis problem.

I have gapped the coil with a buisness card and it is installed correctly Using a jumper wire from battery to solenoid to cranks motor with key to on position I would have thought I would get spark. If not please explain how I isolate motor from chassis. Brain locked up :confused2::confused2:

Disconnect the neg. kill wire to the module. I am working on different brand engines so some are different then others so I don't know what you have. Which module do you have the small one on the side of the engine block or the one in the ignition switch as I recall the John Deere FC420V Kawasaki came both ways.

BBO said:

On my LX188 the plug to the voltage regulator was bad.
If yours has this pull it apart to see if it looks like this.
View attachment 26958

Click to expand...

That nylon connector plug looks exactly like the one that caused problems on my craftsman dyt 4000. I finally just cracked it open with pliers to look at the pins/sockets which were badly corroded. IMO the corrosion was dropping voltage (resistance) so I finally hard wired.

motoman said:

That nylon connector plug looks exactly like the one that caused problems on my craftsman dyt 4000. I finally just cracked it open with pliers to look at the pins/sockets which were badly corroded. IMO the corrosion was dropping voltage (resistance) so I finally hard wired.

Click to expand...

I replaced the complete plug, but it does require a a special crimping tool.

On the LX188 the plug carries the AC from the stator to the regulator on to the battery.
This may not be the problem he has with the mower not firing, but wiring connectors in general can sure cause problems.
Good engine ground issues are sometimes hard to locate.

I think I can check coils with an ohm meter, but some mechanics argue it's not reliable.
They say that when he coils get hot they loose spark even if they work after cooling off.
I do know that the plug wire cap can also be the problem, especially where it screws up onto the wire.

The little connector pins that are crimped on to mate with the sockets are very delicate and you do not have to crimp if you have a light touch with a solder iron. A light touch because the connector cavities will not allow big solder blobs to enter . And you are not restricted to the factor connector. Any 4 pin snap- apart connector will work as long as it will accept the wire gage and there is room for a larger conn body. In a pinch I have used the trailer brake/signal units available at auto parts stores (bubble pak). My Intek repair was just to solder the wires up and use shrink sleeving , or insulation tape if done carefully. Yes, I must cut if I replace the volt regulator-not worried.:thumbsup:

I have ohm'd out 2 igniters one gave a reading of 1.348kohm and the other one no readings. I assume the one with the reading is good correct. Have 2 coils to test next

I don't know what an igniter is, but if your coil(s) are what I think, ohm readings have no meaning. Inside the epoxy body of a typical coil is a an electronic circuit containing wiring (small circuit board) with electronic components (think transistor radio ). You only have access to an output lead and the pickup shoe (s) on the outside so VOM readings have no value. Sorry, IMO.

motoman said:

I don't know what an igniter is, but if your coil(s) are what I think, ohm readings have no meaning. Inside the epoxy body of a typical coil is a an electronic circuit containing wiring (small circuit board) with electronic components (think transistor radio ). You only have access to an output lead and the pickup shoe (s) on the outside so VOM readings have no value. Sorry, IMO.

Click to expand...

I am assuming what the OP is talking about here as the igniter is the timing module. The LX176 John Deere has a Kawasaki FC420V engine which has a single coil with the primary coil wire that go's to the timing module which is located into ignition switch on that model John Deere. Some of the older JD Kawasaki's the timing module was located on the side of the engine block.

Well, sorry any confusion I made. I am only familiar with the magneto coil on the Intek which uses encapsulated electronics. Perhaps this case is a more conventional , old school auto type coil with primary and seconday windings which can be checked for opens and continuity with an ohm function. The trigger on these ( I think) are points or transistors which can be separate . The transistor pickup can also fail and cannot be checked via ohm reading. Glad to have professional help.