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From what i have seen on youtube ,there are a few things by the pullys that need lubrication.It showed the deck being dropped to access .I dont want to get quite that much into it.Anyone know if I can lube these areas w/o dropping the deck?? I dont mind wasting a few cans of lube to just blast everything under there.....Parlty because the $ store by me just started carrying a pretty good can of spray lube.

Spray lube cannot take the place of grease applied through zerks. Grease fittings are sealed to keep out water and debris and it does a good job of keeping spray lube out, too.

Either you do what you need to do to grease them, or prepare to replace spindles, which also requires deck removal and is much more expensive.

So are you saying that there are zerks that can only be accessed by removing the deck?? Guess my title should have read "Removing the deck" Dropping it refers to lowering it?? !st tractor mower for me,can u tell..?? lol

spindles might have zerks on the top of the deck, or on the bottom (under the blades) depending on the machine if they ar located on top of deck area, lower your deck to max low position MIGHT ... enable you to get to them, if they are located on the bottom as in the attached pic you have to jack up the mower ( deck attached then move the blades to where you can get to the zerks you WILL NOT get to the bearings by spraying them, some models have NO zerks, deck must be removed, spindles disassembled to grease bearings without a deck, all you have is a ride-round machine it's your money !!

...... click to enlarge

No matter if you have grease zerks are not you still have take the deck out every now and then to clean the under side of it.......

It only takes a minute to take the deck out... 3 pins to pull most of the time. Then slide it out... The hardest thing on some mowers is the bracket that hangs down... It gets in the way so I have 2 magnets a friend gave me from a microwave oven.... Stick it to the frame then the bracket sticks to the magnet..... Easy peasy....

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Directions to remove the deck off the machine are SOMETIMES in the owners Guide/Manual should also be on a youtube...
in case you need to do so,

......... click to enlarge

crazy charlie said:

So are you saying that there are zerks that can only be accessed by removing the deck?? Guess my title should have read "Removing the deck" Dropping it refers to lowering it?? !st tractor mower for me,can u tell..?? lol

Click to expand...

No, not saying that at all. I would be surprised if there are zerks that can't be accessed with the deck on the tractor. You may have to use a right-angle head or flexible line grease gun.

But, whether you can or not, the deck should be removed periodically to clean and inspect the underside unless you have a way to lift the tractor high enough to access from underneath.

cpurvis said:

No, not saying that at all. I would be surprised if there are zerks that can't be accessed with the deck on the tractor. You may have to use a right-angle head or flexible line grease gun.

But, whether you can or not, the deck should be removed periodically to clean and inspect the underside unless you have a way to lift the tractor high enough to access from underneath.

Click to expand...

Purvis you reminded me of my good friend that lives a few towns over from me........ Donald makes it look easy and it is easy LOL.........Here's a video link....... At 6;06 he makes a lot of sense.... Ya'll enjoy ~!~!

https://youtu.be/7TD8kuV-hL4

Get some 2 x 4 twice the length of the deck's width.
put them under the deck then lower onto them
Unclip the pins, should be around 6.
2 each side near the rear then 1 or 2 at the front and perhaps a stabilizer across the very back.
Slide the deck a little forward to get enough slack to slip the belt of the engine pulley then slide the deck out sideways on the 2 x 4' s like rails.
Blow the deck down and spray every part that moves with dry lithium grease.
Get under the mower & have some one move all of the controls ans spray everywhere that 2 metal parts move in each other, do not be shy.
Don't forget the height adjusters on the rear guard, I generally pull the back wheels off and lube the axels which makes the rear bits easy to access.

To get an idea, I go through a large can of grease every 2 or 3 mowers.
Don't forget all the pins you just pulled out.
Jack the front off the ground and grease the nipples in the steering & wheels.
Very important to have the wheels hanging free so the grease gets between the faces that are normally bearing on each other.
Some front cross beams have a nipple in the middle where they pivot, some don't.
If you have a pressed metal front cross beam then spray the flange it pivots on front & back, again you can't get too much in there.

FWIW takes me a bit over an hour to do it properly so allow yourself 2 hours.
If you have a compressor get a long dust gun, longer the better and blow the underside clean before you start, no use lubing dust & debris.
When you have finished, slide the deck back in on the 2 x 4's and hook it up, starting at the back & finishing with the drag links at the front.

On the subject f drag links, most mowers do not have tie rod ends any more ( add too much cost ) so slip the extension tube of the spray grease under the rubber skirt, if fitted ad give them a good squirt as well.
If you have open ball joints then give the balls a spray .

While the deck is out, spin the blades & check the shafts for any up down or side to side movement and for smoothness of rotation, if they are bad replace the bearings.
Also spin any idler pulleys checking for a smooth quiet spin, if not replace them as well, a lot cheaper & easier now and it won't cost a new belt 1/2 way through doing the lawn just before the in laws turn up for their annual inspection.
When you are under the mower set the brake then do the same for the pulleys in the drive train ( 3 usually ).
Slide the belt through 1 full revolution & check for cracks, shredding , missing lumps etc.
Now run the engine , change the oil & filters then remove the blower housing & blow clean the cooling fins.
Leave the blower housing off over winter to discourage it becoming the rodent Hilton over winter.
Drain the fuel or add your favourite stabilizer & the mower is set for a winters snooze.
I you have a battery tender, hook it up or try to remember to pop the charger onto the battery overnight once a month.

Thanks for all the good ideas!! I will give it a shot but unfortunately i take things apart well however i dont put them back together quite as well.Lol

The secret is in your pocket.
A photo every time something comes off so then you have a photo book manual of how it goes back together.