LTX1040 PTO

[fayjim2]

Well I,m still looking for my non engagement of my mower pto. I looked at the deck with the PTO lever engaged. The belt was still LOOSE. I reached in and moved the lever/Idler pulley approximately 2 inches and that tightened the Belt. As I said before the deck levers move freely and lubed, it just seems like a travel problem for the engage lever. The belt is new idlers new. I have even shortened the engage cable. Is there a way to move the engage lever so as to get more travel? Should the belt be shorter? Ok I,m done whining, I just need good advice. Thanks Jim

 

[mechanic mark]

https://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/cub-cadet-service-manuals

Lawn Tractor Service Manuals LTX, look through this manual & see if it will help you out, let us know how it goes, thanks

use Cub Cadet OEM parts

https://www.cubcadetpartsdistributo...sntA9kOgaBfmiUQfCEG4Qua8iSEwbpq4aAlW5EALw_wcB

 

[bertsmobile1]

So you have been kicking around with your problems for a while.
Went back and nowhere have you given us the full story
Nor have you come back with problem fixed or still giving me grief post.
You have just left us hanging in the air which makes helping you very very very hard.

SO let's have the WHOLE STORY.
Did this suddenly happen or did it happen after you replaced something and if so what.

Your original post was about a fuel problem
Next you came back saying the the PTO cable was not coming back all the way to the end of the slot

Now all of a sudden you are telling us the deck does not engage

Something is happening that you are not telling us about.

People are lazy make things hard and people will give up.

SO lets have the WHOLE STORY , right from the start and that includes everything you have done to the mower.

 

[fayjim2]

Mower stopped spinning last year2018, but it was mid fall so I put the tractor up. This spring I put in garage and started to investigate. Dropped deck everything was in place as per the books/drawings I have. I received advice from forum to check deck levers for worn holes /hardware and crud. Looked good lubed and reassembled, and installed new Kevlar belt 96.5inches. Installed deck. When I attempted use no luck. Removed deck , looked at everything again, installed 2 idlers on deck for Hell I don,t really know. Checked cable for smooth operation ok. Checked PTO handle for operation it seemed okay put its not a very good system,its weak and maybe its not taveling far enough but I couldn,t find a real defect with it other than it doesn,t return to the complete disengage end of slot , but my real worry is engagement. Prior to installing the deck again I slid the cable thru that heavy spring that hooks to lever and installed 2 small nuts behind the ball end of cable so as to give me more travel at the engage lever. Dam I,m really smart. Installed deck checked level of deck and attempted use. No go. Not smart at all. Got a fuel drip from solenoid, really a minor issue the deck needs to work. I know I asked earlier about the deck hangars because there stamped 38 on them and I know I asked about use a shorter belt, and I know I asked about using a 5/8 wide belt . So in a nut shell I have a ride around toy and a wife shaking her head and walking away, singing yea Toro FWD. .Help if you can Jim

 

[fayjim2]

Bert/Mechanic Mark or someone give me a idea on this issue . Thanks Jim

 

[bertsmobile1]

Engage the deck ( engine off ) then grab the tensioning arm and see if it moves further back ( making the belt tighter )
If it does , note how far further it moves till the belt becomes tight.
If you get to the end of the movement of the tensioning arm and the belt is not tight then either it is routed wrong or the belt is too long

Note the distance that the hole in the tensioning arm where the cable fits moves between belt slack & belt tight.
Then check how far the cable moves engaged to dissengaged, it should be further than the tensioning arm because it has to stretch the spring .

Rereading the entire saga I am wondering if both of the deck cable anchoring brackets are there.
There should be one on the frame & another on the deck.
If one has fallen off you would be in this position.

So what I really need is some photos.
Slide the deck out and show the belt routing
Before you do that drop the deck to the floor and take some photos of each end of the deck cable, blades on & blades off.
Also the tensioning arm cable attached & cable off belt slack & belt tight.
Please use a camera if you have one and sit it on a stand , box, pile of books etc so the photos are clear & in focus.

 

[fayjim2]

Engage the deck ( engine off ) then grab the tensioning arm and see if it moves further back ( making the belt tighter )
If it does , note how far further it moves till the belt becomes tight.
If you get to the end of the movement of the tensioning arm and the belt is not tight then either it is routed wrong or the belt is too long

Note the distance that the hole in the tensioning arm where the cable fits moves between belt slack & belt tight.
Then check how far the cable moves engaged to dissengaged, it should be further than the tensioning arm because it has to stretch the spring .

Rereading the entire saga I am wondering if both of the deck cable anchoring brackets are there.
There should be one on the frame & another on the deck.
If one has fallen off you would be in this position.

So what I really need is some photos.
Slide the deck out and show the belt routing
Before you do that drop the deck to the floor and take some photos of each end of the deck cable, blades on & blades off.
Also the tensioning arm cable attached & cable off belt slack & belt tight.
Please use a camera if you have one and sit it on a stand , box, pile of books etc so the photos are clear & in focus.

Well I finally got around to working on the mower. Italked earlier about the engage handle. I remived the handle

 

[bertsmobile1]

I remived the handle

?????

 

[fayjim2]

Sorry , I started feeling bad and stopped. It all came down to a poorly support bearing for the pto lever. I sandwiched a piece of 1/8 steel and a split collar brg. and a couple of good nylon bushings. Now the bearing/rotion suface is about 2.5 inches instead of that 5/8 split plastic brg. I also had to do a little heating and bending on the lever itself from all the side movement of the lever. IF I can take a picture I will try to post it.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks.
Glad you got it sorted
never heard of this happening before but well worth remembering.