Been having issues with my mower losing spark. I replaced the initial coil with a cheapo from Amazon. Ran it for about fifteen minutes and shut it down. Could not get it to fire up after that.
Eventually came around to replacing the coil again. With another cheapo from Amazon. Ran it for about fifteen minutes and shut it down. Could not get it to fire up after that. No spark.
Think it's just the cheapo parts? Thoughts?
Thanks,
#2
StarTech
Either that or you getting a voltage impulse from the ignition switch destroying the coils electronics.
I’ve never had any luck with they cheap crap off fleabay. End up costing more in labor and the frustration of trying to return parts is not worth it, as I warranty my work. Use OEM unless you are a gambler who normally wins.
#4
sgkent
make sure you are using the correct spark plug and gap the coil is designed for.
Pull the kill wire off the coil and run a test light between it and the battery negative terminal
Then go mow
If you see even the faintest glimmer of light then the wiring is at fault
If the coil stops making sparks the coil is at fault
Remember to space the coil 0.010" off the magnets
Lots of partssold on AmmoZone and evilpay are defective parts bought from the factory as scrap metal because they failed quality control then sold to cheapskates who think you get bargans on ebay or are just too lazy to shop anywhere other than Ammozone .
#7
sgkent
water in any switch not designed for it is an issue. If not this problem, it will be another.
#8
Baby Billy
I put a new ignition switch and a new OEM coil in. Ran it to operating temp a couple separate times, it ran good. Went to turn it over again and no spark.
#9
Scrubcadet10
like others have said, check that you NEVER get voltage on the coil ground/kill wire
#10
StarTech
Or you could try installing a 1N5408-G diode with the anode connected to the coil's kill terminal and the cathode connected to the kill wire. This would block any positive voltage coming from the kill wire.
Or you could try installing a 1N5408-G diode with the anode connected to the coil's kill terminal and the cathode connected to the kill wire. This would block any positive voltage coming from the kill wire.
Now now now Star , that requires people to have listened to their science teacher when they were 12 to 14 and actually remembered some of it .
Judging from what gets posted here this is a feat that very few Americans seemed to have a managed to do .
#12
Baby Billy
I understand that I'm a dummy, but I'm trying. Just a guy in a wheelchair trying to cut his grass.
I'm also a former operator, which means I did in fact go around cutting and splicing safety switches. Could this have caused my current issue?
Personally I would suggest carrying the mower to someone with the knowledge to troubleshoot the electrical problem.
Not trying boss someone just speaking from experience where I have seen folks to spend a lot of money trying fix when a simple wire was the root cause.
Matter of fact I just got in a mower with an electrical problem that a DIYer introduced by not grounding an after fire fuel solenoid just he refused to buy and use the correct screw. I just rewired correctly and while I was at it fixed the leaking rocker cover. Now I can't guarantee the fuel solenoid as I didn't sell and install it.
#14
Baby Billy
Alright guys,
I got the mower to a retired tech who had it for a little over a week. Turns out whoever had the mower before me put a new engine on it, and that new engine had a shroud that came from a different motor.
I had been ordering coils for the model number that's printed on the plastic and not stamped on the block.
